We've got a runner

[ripcuda]

If you have to choke it to start when warm or hot... yeah, that sounds too lean. The other end of the that spectrum being it's so rich at idle it never needs choke to start.

I hear you about accessing the mixture screw. On the PZ30 carb, the screw sticks down far enough to JBweld a nut on it... which I just did. Should make turning it a little easier. It was very tough to get even a flat-blade hex bit up there. On the Mikuni, the screw is recessed further into the carb... so sounds like a pain.

I wouldn't bend a screwdriver. You would only get about 15degrees of rotation before the screw was turned in such a way you couldn't get the bent screwdriver back into the slot again. Maybe some sort of holder for the flat-blade bit, where you could reposition the bit... if you have the clearance.

Cheers!

[humanbeing]

Invest a proper tool http://www.ebay.com/itm/280877525162 if had many bikes...
---
Chinese mechanic often use these basic tool:
idle: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=16939986674 | mixture: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=3292963201

[FreyStarr]

Another thing to do is remove the pilot jet.

Find a drill bit that is the same size as the head of the pilot jet

Find a bolt that is bigger than head of the pilot jet, M4 should work.

Clamp the bolt in a vise and drill out the end of the bolt.

Mix up epoxy and put the pilot jet into the hole you've drilled.

Let the epoxy cure.

Then get a very small drill bit. Drill through the side of the bolt at the end so that you drill through the bolt and the pilot jet.

Put a piece of wire or break the drill bit and mix up some more epoxy and put the post through this hole.

You now have an indestructible extended fuel screw.

Another option if soldering/brazing is more your cup of tea.

Use brass pipe from a hobby/model rail road shop and braze a T section on the end of your pilot jet.


Makes tuning easy. You can go to a straight road and drive up and down and pull over and make micro adjustments

[JPG1911]

Great suggestions!! I will see what I can come up with, but I'm liking the idea of brazing a T onto the screw.

I saved that screwdriver in my wish list
I used to have a right angle close quarters screwdriver called "the skew-driver" that would probably work perfectly. It's a similar tool but shorter and has interchangeable bits. I also have a right angle drill chuck that might actually work... if I can find it, and take the side handle off.

[JPG1911]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Install-Bay-...item43dd063189

[ripcuda]

On my bike... picture one of those hex bits that go in the skew-driver or a multi-tip screw driver. When I put a hex bit with a flat-blade tip in the mixture screw, the other end of the hex bit is touching the starter. I have a fat thumbs width of room to maneuver.

I like your ideas FreyStar... but as a correction, it's the mixture screw that you modify somehow to make it easier to turn/adjust, not the pilot jet. The pilot jet is inside the carb bowl.

Cheers!

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by ripcuda

I don't think you would want the idle speed so rich as to never need choke when cold starting. Ideally you want it so no choke is ever needed on a warm/hot restart... and only needed on a cold start for a short period till it can idle w/o it. Too much richer than that and it'll be boggy or feel lazy throttling around just off idle.

If your having to choke it after a 10min cool down after running... yeah, that sounds like a little more fuel in the pilot could help.

Adjust your mixture screw so you get the fastest idle speed with a warm idling engine. Then readjust the idle (not mixture) screw to desired idle again. If you lost count of turns on the mix screw... turn off engine, screw mix screw in while counting until seated (gently). Then back it back out the same number of turns you just counted. Somewhere between 1/2 and 2 turns out should be fine. < 1/2... too rich - downsize pilot jet. > 2... too lean - upsize pilot jet. If you change jets... gotta do it all again.

I think your plug looks good. That's a read after taking the bike for a spin, right (not just sitting there idling)? So it's more a mid-circuit to main jet read verses idle circuit. That said, I'd go with it... leaving it unchanged. Perhaps your lost few mph are because you're no longer too lean. Lean is mean... but not good for longevity.

Just my thoughts. I too am chasing jetting perfection on my PZ30 carb. It is a PITA. I'll be happy to get it dialed in.

Cheers!

All very well said. I agree.

[JPG1911]

New jets are on the way, and I have found a happy mixture screw setting that works OK with the current jetting, but I have another issue...

A few weeks ago while testing my top speed, the headlight cut out under WOT in 4th gear(very high RPM). It came back on as soon as I let off the throttle to shift into 5th. This happened one other time under similar conditions. I don't think I lost spark or any other electrical components while this condition occured, but can't be 100% sure. The headlight has now stopped working altogether. I have tested it with a multimeter, as well as removed the bulb and visually inspected the elements, both are in tact and have resistance.

On my bike, the headlight only comes on when the engine is running. At this time, all other lights are working, it's only the headlight that doesn't work. I would assume this has something to do with the magneto, or the voltage rectifier, but I know little about either. Is there an easy way to check? Or a hard way, I'm not too opposed to that either

I am about to buy a new headlight for the bike, but want to make sure that it will work when it gets here. One other odd thing about the headlight wiring... Ever since I got the bike running, the lights (all of them) only work when the headlight switch is in it's middle position, which I would think is for running lights only. If I switch it to the fully on position, all lights go out. If I switch it all the way down(I assume this is the off position) all lights go out. It doesn't matter if the engine is running or not. I know that something is not right here, but I have yet to figure out what that might be. Perhaps it's the switch, I have not dissasembled it yet, but may do that tonight.

[Adjuster]

You have a bad switch or bad wiring. Nothing is wrong with the mechanicals per say. You just need to go through the switch and wiring and find your gremlin.


/

[jct842]

All lights on but head light untill engine starts is exactly how a 07 majesty scooter is wired. They are using a diode to switch the light on. john

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by jct842

They are using a diode to switch the light on. john

Please dumb that down for me.

[JPG1911]

Interesting development.

While riding around with the kids in the street this afternoon, I noticed that the neutral indicator light was so dim I could barely see it in the daylight, it is usually very bright green. I got off the bike and realized that none of the lights were (visibly) working. I had previously installed a permanent trickle charger port on the bike

but since I always kick start the bike due to the starter not being able to turn the engine more than one revolution, I haven't used it(the charger) at all. I have ridden around 125-150 miles(estimated) and never once charged the battery.

When I plugged the trickle charger in, the lights all came one again. So obviously, my battery was totally dead. I didn't bother to put a meter on it, but I'm sure that it got dangerously low - it may not even charge back up to 12 volts again after dipping so low.

Being curious, I started the bike with the charger still plugged in, and I could see a very faint glow from the headlight bulb - I'll check again once it's fully charged, but I'm sure the headlight will work fine.

This begs the question; If the magneto is not charging the battery, how is it able to provide enough energy for spark? I would think that if it isn't able to charge the battery, it wouldn't be able to run the CDI and coil.

I am understanding more and more each day why the previous owner gave up on the bike, and gave it to me, lol. I'm not giving up, I'm extremely determined. This is going to be a reliable commuter bike come hell or high water!

[Adjuster]

I am betting there is nothing wrong with your electrical and charging system. I am guessing you have an internally shorted out battery. A new battery will likely solve all your electrical and charging issues.


/

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by JPG1911

This begs the question; If the magneto is not charging the battery, how is it able to provide enough energy for spark? I would think that if it isn't able to charge the battery, it wouldn't be able to run the CDI and coil.

I agree with Adjuster, that it is likely the battery that is causing the issues.

To confirm, start the bike and place the probes of your multimeter (set to DC volts), and you should see a number north of 13.2.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by JPG1911

I am understanding more and more each day why the previous owner gave up on the bike, and gave it to me, lol. I'm not giving up, I'm extremely determined. This is going to be a reliable commuter bike come hell or high water!

BTW, you've got a good attitude!