headlight switch

turbofiat124 · 02-22-2017, 07:46 AM

My Bravo ATV has a three position headlight switch. Off, on, on.

My assumption was the 2nd position is somewhat of a low beam, the 3rd position somewhat of a high beam. Even though this thing is not road legal, I don't know why you would need this function.

Positions 2 and 3 have the same effect. There is no difference in brightness.

The bulbs have three wires going to them so I assume they are a dual filament bulb like a turn/park light.

What's up with that?

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 02-23-2017, 04:59 PM

hello... yes it is for low........high.... you bulb might be having a wiring problem or the switch is defective.... in the small 110 cc they have a small side light in the headlight... this is for low beam... the others have it light up one filament ... and high is the other filament.. if you do not hneed it .. then not worth the work.. use led headlights added

07PSDCREW · 03-12-2017, 05:05 PM

I bought two 9" led light bars from advance auto parts and installed on our coolster 150's. If your wire colors are the same, the green is ground and the blue is high beam. I just tapped power and ground at the light and the bar comes on when highbeam is selected.

zackattack91 · 03-15-2017, 08:42 PM

Can you explain the wiring in more detail. I was going to hook up a separate switch, but the way you just used the existing switch sounds much better than having to hook up a switch and wire harness and all that. I have the 3150dx2. The headlights have a green wire, blue wire and white wire coming from them, than plugging into a connector than going into where the wires are all ziptied up. Which wire's am I looking for, for the LED bar to turn on for high beam like yours. Help a coolster brotha out!

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07PSDCREW

I bought two 9" led light bars from advance auto parts and installed on our coolster 150's. If your wire colors are the same, the green is ground and the blue is high beam. I just tapped power and ground at the light and the bar comes on when highbeam is selected.

humanbeing · 03-15-2017, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zackattack91

...headlights have a green wire, blue wire and white wire coming from them, than plugging into a connector than going into where the wires are all ziptied up. Which wire's am I looking...

http://chinariders.net/showthread.ph...783#post229783

Swampy · 03-16-2017, 10:45 AM

Here is how I did mine.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=17571

I tapped into the high beam wire (blue on mine) for my (useless) LED lights so I wouldn't need to add an additional switch. Get a test light and see which wire controls the high beam and tap into it. Others have run relays for their add on lights but I didn't see a need for it.

Let us know how it goes.

zackattack91 · 03-16-2017, 05:44 PM

Thanks swamp. I can connect the power from the light right to the harness that comes from the switch right. Before the connector plugs into the wiring harness. And put a small circle terminal on the ground wire and just ground it to the frame. I don't like using those plastic tap in connector things. I'd much rather splice the wires and connect them with a dab of solder or twist them good and heat shrink them together. Blue is the highbeam, and the LED bar doesn't draw much at all. So the stock fuse will be fine. Much easier than buying a wire harness and switch.

Swampy · 03-16-2017, 07:04 PM

Spice, solder and shrink wrap wherever looks the best. I don’t know why but I used the wires off the headlight before the connector. I spiced my ground here too instead of running to the frame. Cleaner install using only the stock switch……

07PSDCREW · 03-18-2017, 03:40 PM

This really sucks that I don't notifications of replies. I've set the settings....arrgh

Anyway, yes I have the dx2 as well, blue wire is positive highbeam circuit. And green is ground. I just soldered and shrink wrapped just behind the headlight on the right side.

zackattack91 · 03-18-2017, 05:04 PM

So I've got a 12 inch 72 watt light bar. I was just getting ready to hook it up to the high beam switch, but I started thinking about a relay and harness. Just to be safe. Because of the extra 6 amps the light bar will be pulling. Have you noticed the switch getting hot or any electrical problems at all since tapping in to the stock switch? I just don't want to fry my electric because I didn't feel like running a harness to the battery.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 07PSDCREW

This really sucks that I don't notifications of replies. I've set the settings....arrgh

Anyway, yes I have the dx2 as well, blue wire is positive highbeam circuit. And green is ground. I just soldered and shrink wrapped just behind the headlight on the right side.

zackattack91 · 03-18-2017, 05:17 PM

So if I do decide to just tap into the existing wiring, I can just tap into the wires from one of the lights? It doesn't have to be onto the wires from the switch? I'd think it would be safer on the switch wiring than on one of the lights. But electrical stuff is not really my strong point. So what do I know. But main thing is, should I get 10$ harness with relay and fuse straight to battery for safety, and light bar will work with ATV off if I ever needed light and didn't feel like starting the ATV, or just tap into existing wiring. Where's the electrician's in here?

humanbeing · 03-18-2017, 07:31 PM

No one knows the details inside stock wiring / harness & relay kit...
Play safe = Build ur own using parts that > the spec u needs...

goat67 · 03-18-2017, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zackattack91

So if I do decide to just tap into the existing wiring, I can just tap into the wires from one of the lights? It doesn't have to be onto the wires from the switch? I'd think it would be safer on the switch wiring than on one of the lights. But electrical stuff is not really my strong point. So what do I know. But main thing is, should I get 10$ harness with relay and fuse straight to battery for safety, and light bar will work with ATV off if I ever needed light and didn't feel like starting the ATV, or just tap into existing wiring. Where's the electrician's in here?

If I was to do this I would not tie into the existing harness for the 12 volts. I would get the voltage in a separate harness with a relay. Just to be safe and not overload the existing wiring.

Do you have a wiring diagram I could look at it and then could see if you could use the existing switch to engage the relay.

Just read the posts below it sounds like you can use the hi beam wire the blue one to tie into the relay that is what I would do.

Swampy · 03-20-2017, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zackattack91

So I've got a 12 inch 72 watt light bar. I was just getting ready to hook it up to the high beam switch, but I started thinking about a relay and harness. Just to be safe. Because of the extra 6 amps the light bar will be pulling. Have you noticed the switch getting hot or any electrical problems at all since tapping in to the stock switch? I just don't want to fry my electric because I didn't feel like running a harness to the battery.

Your going to turn nighttime into daytime with that torch! I think I would run the relay with that much pull. Another question is does your quad produce enough juice to run that light? IDK your charging output.

My stock switch has not gotten hot at all but my lights don't draw as much as yours.

07PSDCREW · 03-20-2017, 10:48 PM

Yeah what swampy said. My switch dosent get hot or the wires. But, my lightbar draws less than 1.25 amps. It is only a 9" and 1600 lumens which is super bright for my needs.

You could always hook the bar up to a battery and see what it draws in real time. Anything less than 3 amps I'd say you are good to go.

02-22-2017, 07:46 AM	#1
turbofiat124 Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Kingsport, TN Posts: 108	headlight switch My Bravo ATV has a three position headlight switch. Off, on, on. My assumption was the 2nd position is somewhat of a low beam, the 3rd position somewhat of a high beam. Even though this thing is not road legal, I don't know why you would need this function. Positions 2 and 3 have the same effect. There is no difference in brightness. The bulbs have three wires going to them so I assume they are a dual filament bulb like a turn/park light. What's up with that? __________________ http://s222.photobucket.com/user/tur...?sort=2&page=0
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02-23-2017, 04:59 PM	#2
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	headlight hello... yes it is for low........high.... you bulb might be having a wiring problem or the switch is defective.... in the small 110 cc they have a small side light in the headlight... this is for low beam... the others have it light up one filament ... and high is the other filament.. if you do not hneed it .. then not worth the work.. use led headlights added __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	0

03-16-2017, 10:45 AM	#6
Swampy Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 218	Here is how I did mine. http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=17571 I tapped into the high beam wire (blue on mine) for my (useless) LED lights so I wouldn't need to add an additional switch. Get a test light and see which wire controls the high beam and tap into it. Others have run relays for their add on lights but I didn't see a need for it. Let us know how it goes. __________________ 1986 TT350, 2002 Grizzly 660, 2009 TR125 and two 2015 Kandi 150cc Quads.
	0

03-16-2017, 05:44 PM	#7
zackattack91 Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: New Jersey Posts: 86	Thanks swamp. I can connect the power from the light right to the harness that comes from the switch right. Before the connector plugs into the wiring harness. And put a small circle terminal on the ground wire and just ground it to the frame. I don't like using those plastic tap in connector things. I'd much rather splice the wires and connect them with a dab of solder or twist them good and heat shrink them together. Blue is the highbeam, and the LED bar doesn't draw much at all. So the stock fuse will be fine. Much easier than buying a wire harness and switch. __________________ 2016 Coolster 3150-DX2
	0

03-16-2017, 07:04 PM	#8
Swampy Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 218	Spice, solder and shrink wrap wherever looks the best. I don’t know why but I used the wires off the headlight before the connector. I spiced my ground here too instead of running to the frame. Cleaner install using only the stock switch…… __________________ 1986 TT350, 2002 Grizzly 660, 2009 TR125 and two 2015 Kandi 150cc Quads.
	0

03-18-2017, 03:40 PM	#9
07PSDCREW Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Ashby, Ma Posts: 34	This really sucks that I don't notifications of replies. I've set the settings....arrgh Anyway, yes I have the dx2 as well, blue wire is positive highbeam circuit. And green is ground. I just soldered and shrink wrapped just behind the headlight on the right side.
	0

03-18-2017, 05:17 PM	#11
zackattack91 Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: New Jersey Posts: 86	So if I do decide to just tap into the existing wiring, I can just tap into the wires from one of the lights? It doesn't have to be onto the wires from the switch? I'd think it would be safer on the switch wiring than on one of the lights. But electrical stuff is not really my strong point. So what do I know. But main thing is, should I get 10$ harness with relay and fuse straight to battery for safety, and light bar will work with ATV off if I ever needed light and didn't feel like starting the ATV, or just tap into existing wiring. Where's the electrician's in here? __________________ 2016 Coolster 3150-DX2
	0

03-18-2017, 07:31 PM	#12
humanbeing Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 2,436	No one knows the details inside stock wiring / harness & relay kit... Play safe = Build ur own using parts that > the spec u needs... __________________
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