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Old 03-21-2017, 05:05 PM   #16
RogerWFarrier   RogerWFarrier is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jet321 View Post
Finally got the bike running right today and took it for a ride, the rear wheel was wobbling and I stopped thinking the rim was bent. The rear bearing basically disintegrated.



I saw SeerAtlas's thread and read another with Pete, and concluded that you just have to pop out the old one and order what the 4-digit number and 1RS/2RS designation said, then swap them. Is that right? I took mine out, after a little bit of torch work, and it reads 6302 2RS and on the bottom it says CXCL. What do you guys suggest? What else should I do besides put in the new bearing? Thanks.
I had that happen to me on my '77 Kz1000 after a hard launch that broke the tire loose. It almost threw me off of the bike. In my case I just went to a place that sells commercial bearings and they were able to match it to one that was high quality at a fraction of the cost of what I was finding elsewhere.


 
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Old 03-21-2017, 10:57 PM   #17
BlackBike   BlackBike is offline
 
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Az..your right . Crostrainers a few years back shipped with out grease on main crank bearings. Opppppppps. I see a lot of those skf's in the wild

By the way I finally found a gallon of the stuff...
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Old 03-22-2017, 12:22 AM   #18
humanbeing   humanbeing is offline
 
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...I see a lot of those skf's in the wild...
http://stopfakebearings.com/ had some good tips
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Old 03-22-2017, 09:12 AM   #19
Azhule   Azhule is offline
 
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Stop them Fakes!

"Counterfeiting has increase over 10,000% globally over the last two decades"... wonder how much amazon has increased that number over the last 10 years or so.... I've gotten dozens of fake/counterfeit items from them over the last few years... and every time I complain about getting a fake... they always return with some BS on how it's real... well when I contact NGK/NTK/Denso/Delphi... they always tell me their part was made in Japan... but why is my current box Amazon sent me stamped "Made in Mexico/China/Thailand"....

Reason I don't buy any kind of 'auto parts/bearings' from Amazon anymore... price is usually good... but 99% of the time it's a damn fake... and most the time not even a good copy (look for wrong/slightly off paint colors, lettering/font, "Made in China" when you know it's made in Japan/USA/Europe/CA, etc...)

PS.

Nachi and Timken for the win
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Old 03-23-2017, 03:12 AM   #20
hertz9753   hertz9753 is offline
 
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I like my fake Fox cross bar pad because it doesn't have any moving parts...
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Old 03-29-2017, 11:56 AM   #21
jet321   jet321 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by 2LZ View Post
I usually just knock them out with a drift thru the hub. If you don't have a bearing installer tool, find a socket about the right size as the outer race and knock them in carefully and flat.
Grease the axle and other parts. It help keep water out and will make removal much easier next time.
I finally got my new bearings, 2LZ says to grease the axle and other parts. What specifically do I need to grease, what grease do y'all recommend, and where is the best place to get some?

I feel like these are rhetorical questions but I would like y'alls input so I don't screw something up. Thanks
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Old 03-29-2017, 12:46 PM   #22
Merlin   Merlin is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jet321 View Post
I finally got my new bearings, 2LZ says to grease the axle and other parts. What specifically do I need to grease, what grease do y'all recommend, and where is the best place to get some?

I feel like these are rhetorical questions but I would like y'alls input so I don't screw something up. Thanks
Just grease the axle and use axle grease that you buy at the Auto Parts Store.
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:37 AM   #23
Stealthy   Stealthy is offline
 
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Is it best to just find the the bearing locally by physically bringing it in and having them match it?

I just don't know what size is needed, and I would assume front and rear are going to be different?

Pulled my rear wheel off this weekend to change tube, tire and sprocket. Decided I might as well swap the bearing while I'm down there. It feels a little rough when rolling it with my finger.

Also, should I swap the axle shaft? It was pretty tight when removing it, and I noticed some rust and wear on it. (get from TXpowersports most likely?)

Thanks!


 
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Old 08-28-2017, 09:15 AM   #24
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stealthy View Post
Is it best to just find the the bearing locally by physically bringing it in and having them match it?

I just don't know what size is needed, and I would assume front and rear are going to be different?

Pulled my rear wheel off this weekend to change tube, tire and sprocket. Decided I might as well swap the bearing while I'm down there. It feels a little rough when rolling it with my finger.

Also, should I swap the axle shaft? It was pretty tight when removing it, and I noticed some rust and wear on it. (get from TXpowersports most likely?)

Thanks!
If there is any wear on it, I would replace it. If you've never bought bearings before, yes, take it with you and don't be afraid to ask him how he knew which one is the right one. He'll show you the numbers that are on the bearing. Once you see how he did it, you'll just write down the bearing numbers in the future. Any seal and bearing shop in the U.S. or Canada sells high-quality bearings. High quality bearings come from Japan, England, Germany, and the U.S.A. If you have trouble finding a bearing and seal shop, any machine shop can tell you where to go to get them....ARH

P.S. I'd replace both bearings in the rear wheel if you are only going to do one. Likewise the front wheel bearings, if there are any problems up there...



Last edited by Ariel Red Hunter; 08-28-2017 at 09:19 AM. Reason: More info...
 
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