knee deep into my winter build

[mizke]

well more like winter rebuild, already got the mods but the quad was dirty and i didnt like the lay out of the wires, stuck and hard to move when unstuck throttle cable, weak to craptastic rear brake, rattles from every where on the quad. just a whole mess of things i wanted to fix..

dont have pictures from the start of the rebuild but i will take some in a few days. so far ive removed the body, handle bars, controls, cables, carb, battery, tail light, fog lights, wirring harness.

now for what ive done, shockingly my front control arm bushings where in decent shape so i opted not to deal with changing them. sanded and then cleaned with alcohol the frame. resprayed the frame black best i could, sanded and cleaned the front rims and resprayed them black, did some painting on the rear tail light i will get a picture of.rerouted a few parts of the wirring harness but due to not having a 60w soldering iron to get those cheap wires hot enough to solder i couldnt get it done the way i wanted. but it is nicely routed. relocated the cdi, trimmed out the low beam wires from the harness since i run fog lights i dont need nor use low beams. repainted my tank and throughly cleaned it out.

pretty much from the rear motor mount to the front bumper is the way i like it. once i am able to get msr bars, a new throttle/front brake lever, new clutch lever and cable and grips the front end will be complete.

next phase is either going to be building a fiber glass intake/ battery box or tearing apart the rear end and rebuilding it with a few mods and all new seals and bearings and sanding then painting my rear rims black, shimming up the rear wheel hubs so that i elminate all side to side play, install a grease fitting and pump it full of grease. then the very last thing for me to do is to get a new rear tire.

[mizke]

could also use some pointers on bigger batteries, since i will be making my own battery box i want to switch to a seal gel type battery that has a little more power then the current stocker type lead acid battery i have now..

[Weldangrind]

Don't presume that a gel battery will have more power, but it will likely have a higher cost. Just choose a battery that meets the dimensions you care to build around. If it's bigger than what you have now, it will have more capacity.

[mizke]

i was talking more along the lines of cranking amps and capacity.. i just mainly want a sealed gel battery that puts out what the stocker does. if i can go slightly larger and get more cca and capacity then that is deff the route i will take

[bigheavy150]

Warning: maximum charging voltage for gel cell batteries is about 13.8. Or else ruin them in 5 minuets.(most bikes charge above 14.3V)

Also, they arent that great.The only real advantage is you can keep them upsidedown/sideways for a long time. And i like my bike to be upright :P Other then that they are just more expensive,charge slower and alot of advertising.
a regular lead acid battery,with the removable caps has more cca and amp hours then gel and if you check the water level and fill it with distilled water it can last longer too.

a good way to check your batteries condition is hit it with a volt meter a few hours after you shut it off. 12.8-13.2v is great.Brand new mine was 12.5, but your engine should start with the battery as low as 12.0v but if you run your lights for 5 minuets wit the engine off, it wont start.

infact, check batteries at the store before you buy them. some are OLD. usually the ones with a discount.The longer they sit the weaker they get no matter what you do they are flat after about 5 years.

[mizke]

thanks man, i will check into it when the time comes to build a battery box



ok guys i need some electrical help big time, i have made a wirring diagram of the head light control setup. since i cant find one that would plug in and line up the right wires, ive been looking on ebay and found some cheap slime type head light controls, and i can run a seperate start/kill buttom any where on the handle bars.. i put in as much description as i could with my diagram wires that look like i slashed through them with the earser are the wires that are split between a some color and have a white strip down them..

below are my questions, so if any one could help me to find the answers that would rock. cuz im lost on this one.

1)what i need help with is figuring out which wires are my power wires ?

2) my stock kill switch is a 3 positon switch that goes off-run-off. there are 3 wires going to it, 2 green and 1 white/black wire. for a aftermarket kill switch would i just wire it in to the white/black wire and a single green wire ? the green wire is shared through out all of the control switchs, so im assuming that is the ground..(picture #2 is of this switch)

3) stock head light setup is high beams - low beams - tail light only
since i run fog lights and dont have a need for high beams or low beams, how could i figure out which wire is the high beams so i can remove the low beam wire from the harness plug.(picture #1 is of this switch, and sorry for the blurry picture)






this is of the wirring diagram i made using paint to give you guys a much better picture of how the wires are layed out..


thanks for any and all help any one can give me on this..

[TeamCheap]

Does the quad run right now ? if so then just start it and use a meter or simple test light at the head light plug to find which is which and write it down/label it.

On my quad solid green is ground and the "off-run-off" switch grounds the ignition to kill the quad.
Yeah a two wire kill switch should work just fine.

On my project I had to take my meter and figure out what the headlight switch, kill switch, start button and fan wires were so I could wire it into a harness that didnt match up at all at the plugs.(I dont need fan but still needed to know)
Even the key switch had the wires in the wrong positions and I had to move them around in the plug to get it right.
Same thing for the stator wires coming from the engine and I still havnt checked to see if the lights work or if its charging.

I plan to use a ytx9-bs size battery which is just what is used in the 300ex's so I'll be able to borrow mine from my 300ex, these are slightly larger than the batteries that came in the GY5 bike originally.
Wiring these things is a bit of a pain but with time and lots of patience it can be done.

[mizke]

ive never used a test light before, been lucky enough that the most wirring ive had to mess with in my life is rc car and heli wirring and car audio systems which are cake walks.. so how would i use a test light and what setting on my multi meter would i use to figure this out ?

currently the quad is not running, most of the front harness is unplugged and labeled. i trimmed down and got rid of the excess wirring for my headlights so i could remove the stock head light plugs and then just plug fog lights into it.. the control housing is all removed and not sure i remember how it went together since i didnt intend to put it back together..

it sounds like green is my ground as well.. the ground that bolts to the sprocket cover is green, the kill switch is wirred green, white/black,green.. so if it grounds the ignition to kill the motor, then green has to be ground for the off-run-off switch to function how it does.

[mizke]

hey team the plug for youre head light controls where it plugs into the harness.. does youre plug have the center pin missing ?

these are the headlight/start button/kill switch i want to run, just havent decided which one yet, or if i should run one that has the choke lever on it..

http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-ATV-Ki...item23029e4259

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MINI-...Q5fAccessories

this one is like the first one but has the choke lever on the bottem of the housing..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-wir...Q5fAccessories

[mizke]

can some one please post up a picture of the gio beast plug that controls the start button, kill switch and headlight switchs ? need to see if like my cdi something that works on a gio will work for me

[Jim]

Sorry I don't have a picture right now, my beast is at my parents place. The beast uses basically a light switch, the turn signal switch is the kill switch, the horn the start button. I believe it's similar to what you have but I don't know what the connector looks like off hand.

[mizke]

ya it appears the beast has 2 plug for the head light, kill, and starter switch.. i sent out something like 20 emails to ebay sellers asking if there control assy comes with a wiring diagram.. so i will be choosing one that does come with a wiring diagram other wise figuring out the wiring is going to cause some hair loss

ok well got a reply from a ebay seller about the wire diagram and he does have one for the switch.. its all in one switch so there is some custom wiring to deal with. mainly the head light switch its self, it has h-l-off.. so i need to figure out how to wire it up to just be head lights on and off since again i use fog lights for head lights.

then the blinker controls since this is a control system for a motorcycle, i will use the blinker 3 postion switch for my kill switch.. guessing on that one i need to run the power wire for the blinkers as the run postion then run 2 grounds.. same setup as the stock control switches for me..

then the horn button i will use as my starter button..

here is the ebay item number if you guys want to check it out and offer up any suggestions on the wiring side of them...the guy does post pictures of the item and the wiring for it..

370473892124