Best oil

[TheRealWorld]

Today, I was looking at many options for oil. I have read many opinions on this but I still have a few questions. I assume after the engine is broke in, we should go with a synthetic. Is that correct? Then I found full synthetics that were 5w40 for regular gas or for diesel. The comment has been made to use diesel oils, as they will work better for the wet clutch. I hate to beat a dead horse but I am interested in all of your input on the best overall oil. I am having a problem getting a smooth shift as I think I should. It is shifting, but not as smooth as I expect. It does not slip. It has about 400 miles on it.

[lugnutt]

i have a 2008 hsun 200gy i broke mine in on rotella 15w40 it shifted hard for the first 400 miles the went shifting smooth there after and seems to get better everyday .

[forchetto]

10w-40 mineral or semi-synthetic is the usual recommendation. Some Zongshen engines come with dire warnings NOT to use fully synthetic oils, not sure what the problem is, maybe the wet clutch.

This is if you live in a temperate zone. In very hot places it may be best to go up to 15w-40 or even 20w-50. Chinese manuals are a bit vague about things like oils and grades, but if you look at Japanese owners manual there's a chart detailing grade of oil according to atmospheric conditions the engine is going to be operated in.

As an example I need go no further than my Qingqi QM200GY (Qlink, etc). For Europe the only recommendation in the manual is 10w-40 oil. This is even confirmed by this grade being stamped on the filler plug. However the equivalent model in Brazil, the STX Sundown, (same bike but operated in a hotter country), the manual asks for 20w-50.

Then there's the argument of whether to use normal car oils or go to the bike shops and pay extortionate amounts for special motorcycle oils usually served in tiny containers. This is open to all sorts of arguments. All I can say is that after 37 years of motorcycling I have never gone for any special motorcycle oil. Just use a quality well-known brand mineral or semi-synthetic. I have never worn an engine out yet.

The important thing is to keep the oil topped up to the maximum level on the dipstick and change it regularly to the schedule or earlier. Running your level low means that less oil has to carry contaminants suspended in it, and the less oil there is the hotter it gets, aiding breakdown and compromising lubrication.

I only once deviated from this when I put a molybdenum additive in my old CB350 and my clutch slipped and had to strip the whole thing down to clean the oilways and centrifugal filter, and the clutch plates. Never again...

Here's one of those temperature charts. There are lots more if you put "oil temperature chart" in Google images:

[hunter]

I put ams oil in my bike 10-40 i believe (motorcycle oil)and clutch started slipping but was fixed the heavier clutch springs(easy job)and also put a magnetic drain plug in it to catch loose metal filings(because of no oil filter)gonna see how long the bike lasts me with ams oil in it.

[SpeedSouth]

I experienced a little trouble shifting once (mostly downshifting) when I had overfilled a bit. It wasn't on the Lifan, but I assume most wet-clutch systems would react in a similar way.

Just something to consider.



As for the "best oil"...I prefer strawberry!
Edit: Oops...that's the best ice cream...lol

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by forchetto

...All I can say is that after 37 years of motorcycling I have never gone for any special motorcycle oil. Just use a quality well-known brand mineral or semi-synthetic. I have never worn an engine out yet.

The important thing is to keep the oil topped up to the maximum level on the dipstick and change it regularly to the schedule or earlier...

I think Forchetto offers superb advice from the voice of experience. Use a quality brand name oil, and change it regularly; you don't need to buy expensive "motorcycle oils."

I have used Valvoline 10W-40 automobile oil and Wal-Mart Super Tech 15W-40 motor oil with excellent results in my motorcycle. When I wish to spend a little more money, I really enjoy using Shell Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic oil; this oil allows my transmission to shift very smoothly.

Spud

[forchetto]

Thanks Spud. I'm a bit of an old cynic really, and it's just my opinion. I do realise that certain engines require special oils, VW-Audi pump-injector types (TDI-PD) use a very special oil, for one. I suppose some Japanese engines like the Rotary Mazdas, or 198 BHP Suzuki Hayabusas also require something out of the ordinary, but our engines date from an original design that was conceived 2 or 3 decades ago. There were no motorcycle oils then and hardly any synthetics.

I have heard lots of good things about Shell Rotella, shame I can't find any here in Spain.

[SpeedSouth]

Shell Rotella T Synthetic is what I used in the EX for the last 10-12k miles.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by forchetto

...I have heard lots of good things about Shell Rotella, shame I can't find any here in Spain.

Originally Posted by SpeedSouth

Shell Rotella T Synthetic is what I used in the EX for the last 10-12k miles.

I really do like the Shell Rotella T 5W-40 Synthetic oil. This oil works superbly with my motorcycle’s wet clutch, and the transmission shifts are as smooth as butter. The Rotella T Synthetic is now selling at Wal-Mart for $19 USD (U.S. Dollars) per gallon. The price of gasoline is rising, so I surmise the price of motor oil will soon follow. :( Therefore, I could not resist; yesterday I bought a gallon of the Shell Rotella T 5W-40 Synthetic motor oil.

Spud