Motor mounts

jayg · 07-16-2008, 11:10 AM

I noticed that it is suggested that we change our motor mounts. Where do we get the bolts? Also are there rubber mounts?

07-16-2008, 01:00 PM

You can get good replacements at Ace Hardware. Get the grade 8 ones. also, though I cannot speak from experience, some folks have had luck using gorilla glue to dampen some of the vibes. search around the forum and you'll find the answers.

katoranger · 07-16-2008, 02:37 PM

You don't want to use rubber mounts.

All you have to do is get the correct size grade 8 bolts from ACE hardware and then you will need a drill and a good bit to enlarge the holes in the engine/mount so that the new bolts fit snug.

It is the sloppy fit of the too small bolts that allows for the engine to shift in the frame.

Allen

Dragon · 07-16-2008, 02:44 PM

I had to drive all over town to find the right size bolts.

fatboy250 · 07-16-2008, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by katoranger

All you have to do is get the correct size grade 8 bolts from ACE hardware and then you will need a drill and a good bit to enlarge the holes in the engine/mount so that the new bolts fit snug. Allen

Kato,
I did this with very close tolerance bits and reamers and the bolts were VERY snug when I did the upgrade for the two rear-most bolts. However, after some time I believe the softer aluminum engine castings vibrated more inside the opening resulting in the same problem. So, I tried the GG and it has has put an end to the vibes so far.

TeamCheap · 07-16-2008, 03:59 PM

fatboy250 if thats the case then when I get to that point I may just have to sleeve the eninge case mounting holes and press/epoxy the sleeves in but that sounds a bit labor intensive(winter project).

fatboy250 · 07-16-2008, 04:13 PM

Yeah, Dad mentioned machining some sleeves out of a durable "teflon" material, but one would have to use a smaller diameter bolt and I'm not sure this would be a better solution.... So far I'm ok with the remaining vibes and I only did the two rear bolts with GG.

Dragon · 07-16-2008, 04:23 PM

Are the bolts permanently glued onto the engine?

fatboy250 · 07-16-2008, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dragon

Are the bolts permanently glued onto the engine?

I'm not sure, but I would guess they would be hard to remove if I ever needed to. You also have to consider what the other options may be and if they will accomplish to same objective. I considered some other options, but felt this was the best and most cost effecient choice for me. Plus, I plan to run the thing til it dies anyway. Replacing the engine would be the last thing I'd consider down the road since the engines are the best part of the bike IMO.

katoranger · 07-16-2008, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatboy250

Quote:

Originally Posted by katoranger

All you have to do is get the correct size grade 8 bolts from ACE hardware and then you will need a drill and a good bit to enlarge the holes in the engine/mount so that the new bolts fit snug. Allen

Kato,
I did this with very close tolerance bits and reamers and the bolts were VERY snug when I did the upgrade for the two rear-most bolts. However, after some time I believe the softer aluminum engine castings vibrated more inside the opening resulting in the same problem. So, I tried the GG and it has has put an end to the vibes so far.

It worked for me. I used a 3/8 bit and 3/8 bolts. No access to the level of equipment you were using.

My bike is not perfect, but the vibes are still much less.

The sleave is probably the best solution and I believe I have seen larger bikes with sleeves in the mounts.

Allen

dieselhead · 07-18-2008, 12:27 AM

Im just finishing up my engine rebolt job and figured Id throw in a word here for those of you who might be into a little fab work on this issue. On the 163 FML engine in my 07 gy5, I found the common practice of the rear engine mounting ears badly out of center with the engine mounting holes. Our Asian friends make the fix by putting the smallish diameter bolts in place. IMO, the best fix for this is a long or std. 7/16ths drill on a extension and simply bore out the mounting hole cleanly starting with which ever side ear is most in line with the engine hole. Go all the way through from one side. DO NOT do one side parcialy cause the drill is too short then the other side to meat in the middle. That will give you a bananna hole= NG. The second trick is get 2, 7/16ths grade 8 or 5 bolts with shanks that are at least 4" long. I could only find 5" shanks so I turned the extra inch of shank to thread OD and just spun a die down the existing threads turning the extra shank into threads. The idea here is to have shank through both mounting ears, not shank on one end and threads of a short shank on the other. The washers will need a edge ground off to clear the top bend of the mounting ears. Once both rear engine main bolts are in and lock washered with red lock tight, I pulled the front mounting clam shell off and was amazed at the incredably poor fit. The little bolts have to tighten and force bend a motor mount that was nearly 1/8th wider ID than the tube frame mount hole thimbles! And the engine holes were so out of center I had to tap the skiny bolts out of there pinched possitions. This front mounting plate is a REAL ABORTION job!!! No wonder the rear mounts give up so quicky. SO, the only real fix is to fab up a new 2 pc mounting unit. The right side can be a simple flat plate if you weld a 7/16ths standard nut flat over the frame tube holes. this brings the right side of the frame flush with the right side of the engine mount holes. Make a card board cut out as a template to cover the 4 holes and then drill the new 1/8th thick plate after dykem marked & center punched for 3/8ths bolts. The engine holes will also need to be cleaned up with a Std length 3/8ths drill. Now on the left side, I cut a small peace of band steel from the shipping crate and scribe and drill the 2 bolt hole pattern on the frame holes. Then weld this short 1/8th thick plate over the left frame holes. This gives the new engine plate a FAR better base to tighten up on like the welded nuts on the right side (those tiny lips around the frame holes are a JOKE!). Now I used a 1 and 1/4" x 1 and 1/4" X 1/8th thick angel to come off the frame tube and this gives you the extension needed to mate (mig weld) up to the small fabed engine plate on the left side. NOW the front end is and will be anchored rock solid with ZERO slop. I first thought a frame under was the real answer, but after seeing how this new mount buttoned up, Im golden, wait'n for the Walbro now!!

Dragon · 07-18-2008, 01:01 AM

You simply must post some fotos.

On my bike, I used 3/8" bolts on the front and the top mounts, and a 7/16" bolt on the lower back bolt. I had to enlarge the holes in the front and the top of the engine. The holes for the lower back bolt was almost perfectly sized, so no drilling was necessary. I did not rebolt the upper back bolt because I couldn't find a 7/16" bolt that long (9"). I hope the holes don't get larger over time.

fatboy250 · 07-18-2008, 03:51 PM

This is what I used after I drilled it close with drill bits. The reamer cleaned the hole and made everything exactly .500" for my 1/2" bolts

Jason

dieselhead · 07-19-2008, 11:56 PM

[quote="Dragon"]You simply must post some fotos.

I put 2 pics in the gallery under dieselhead. Is there a way to put a gallery photo into a posting??

07-16-2008, 11:10 AM	#1
jayg Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 149	Motor mounts I noticed that it is suggested that we change our motor mounts. Where do we get the bolts? Also are there rubber mounts?
	0

07-16-2008, 02:37 PM	#3
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	You don't want to use rubber mounts. All you have to do is get the correct size grade 8 bolts from ACE hardware and then you will need a drill and a good bit to enlarge the holes in the engine/mount so that the new bolts fit snug. It is the sloppy fit of the too small bolts that allows for the engine to shift in the frame. Allen __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

07-16-2008, 02:44 PM	#4
Dragon Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Tejas Posts: 834	I had to drive all over town to find the right size bolts. __________________ Chinabikeless
	0

07-16-2008, 04:13 PM	#7
fatboy250 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: COLUMBIA, SC Posts: 973	Yeah, Dad mentioned machining some sleeves out of a durable "teflon" material, but one would have to use a smaller diameter bolt and I'm not sure this would be a better solution.... So far I'm ok with the remaining vibes and I only did the two rear bolts with GG. __________________ 2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000)
	0

07-16-2008, 04:23 PM	#8
Dragon Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Tejas Posts: 834	Are the bolts permanently glued onto the engine? __________________ Chinabikeless
	0

07-16-2008, 01:00 PM	#2
Guest Posts: n/a	You can get good replacements at Ace Hardware. Get the grade 8 ones. also, though I cannot speak from experience, some folks have had luck using gorilla glue to dampen some of the vibes. search around the forum and you'll find the answers.
	0

07-16-2008, 03:59 PM	#6
TeamCheap Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: directly under the earths sun............NOW Posts: 2,302	fatboy250 if thats the case then when I get to that point I may just have to sleeve the eninge case mounting holes and press/epoxy the sleeves in but that sounds a bit labor intensive(winter project).
	0

07-18-2008, 12:27 AM	#11
dieselhead Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Catskill Mnts NY Posts: 85	Im just finishing up my engine rebolt job and figured Id throw in a word here for those of you who might be into a little fab work on this issue. On the 163 FML engine in my 07 gy5, I found the common practice of the rear engine mounting ears badly out of center with the engine mounting holes. Our Asian friends make the fix by putting the smallish diameter bolts in place. IMO, the best fix for this is a long or std. 7/16ths drill on a extension and simply bore out the mounting hole cleanly starting with which ever side ear is most in line with the engine hole. Go all the way through from one side. DO NOT do one side parcialy cause the drill is too short then the other side to meat in the middle. That will give you a bananna hole= NG. The second trick is get 2, 7/16ths grade 8 or 5 bolts with shanks that are at least 4" long. I could only find 5" shanks so I turned the extra inch of shank to thread OD and just spun a die down the existing threads turning the extra shank into threads. The idea here is to have shank through both mounting ears, not shank on one end and threads of a short shank on the other. The washers will need a edge ground off to clear the top bend of the mounting ears. Once both rear engine main bolts are in and lock washered with red lock tight, I pulled the front mounting clam shell off and was amazed at the incredably poor fit. The little bolts have to tighten and force bend a motor mount that was nearly 1/8th wider ID than the tube frame mount hole thimbles! And the engine holes were so out of center I had to tap the skiny bolts out of there pinched possitions. This front mounting plate is a REAL ABORTION job!!! No wonder the rear mounts give up so quicky. SO, the only real fix is to fab up a new 2 pc mounting unit. The right side can be a simple flat plate if you weld a 7/16ths standard nut flat over the frame tube holes. this brings the right side of the frame flush with the right side of the engine mount holes. Make a card board cut out as a template to cover the 4 holes and then drill the new 1/8th thick plate after dykem marked & center punched for 3/8ths bolts. The engine holes will also need to be cleaned up with a Std length 3/8ths drill. Now on the left side, I cut a small peace of band steel from the shipping crate and scribe and drill the 2 bolt hole pattern on the frame holes. Then weld this short 1/8th thick plate over the left frame holes. This gives the new engine plate a FAR better base to tighten up on like the welded nuts on the right side (those tiny lips around the frame holes are a JOKE!). Now I used a 1 and 1/4" x 1 and 1/4" X 1/8th thick angel to come off the frame tube and this gives you the extension needed to mate (mig weld) up to the small fabed engine plate on the left side. NOW the front end is and will be anchored rock solid with ZERO slop. I first thought a frame under was the real answer, but after seeing how this new mount buttoned up, Im golden, wait'n for the Walbro now!!
	0

07-18-2008, 01:01 AM	#12
Dragon Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Tejas Posts: 834	You simply must post some fotos. On my bike, I used 3/8" bolts on the front and the top mounts, and a 7/16" bolt on the lower back bolt. I had to enlarge the holes in the front and the top of the engine. The holes for the lower back bolt was almost perfectly sized, so no drilling was necessary. I did not rebolt the upper back bolt because I couldn't find a 7/16" bolt that long (9"). I hope the holes don't get larger over time. __________________ Chinabikeless
	0

07-18-2008, 03:51 PM	#13
fatboy250 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: COLUMBIA, SC Posts: 973	This is what I used after I drilled it close with drill bits. The reamer cleaned the hole and made everything exactly .500" for my 1/2" bolts Jason __________________ 2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000)
	0

07-19-2008, 11:56 PM	#14
dieselhead Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Catskill Mnts NY Posts: 85	[quote="Dragon"]You simply must post some fotos. I put 2 pics in the gallery under dieselhead. Is there a way to put a gallery photo into a posting??
	0