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Old 06-19-2008, 10:27 PM   #1
newbie555   newbie555 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
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Engine Rebolt

So i had been expieriencing some pretty bad vibes, which caused me to decide to attempt the engine rebolt that was first performed by TEAMCHEAP. I drilled out the 4 front bolts to 3/8 and put gorilla glue all along the shank.

I put the bolt in and used 2 washers and a lock washer and torque the bolts down tight. I also added a second lock nut. Next i remade the top mounts, inspired again by team cheap. I performed the same procedure with the bolts. The bottom two bolts were too hard to drill out, so i just put gorilla glue all along shank and really torqued them down.

By the way I also used locktite on the bolts.

So i let it all sit for about 3 days and today i fired it up and it was like a totally different bike. I was amazed at how smooth it was. I cranked it all the way up to 70mph and it was barely vibrating at all. Usually the vibes were unbearable at about 45-50mph.

All i can say is this is the best thing ive done to the bike and it cost under $10 and only took about 3hrs.


By the way i have the pushrod engine.


 
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Old 06-19-2008, 10:34 PM   #2
yurkia   yurkia is offline
 
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other than the gorilla glue. I did the same thing when I tore my bike down the first time. lost alot my shakes that way too.
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Old 06-19-2008, 11:29 PM   #3
kens97sto171   kens97sto171 is offline
 
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I just retorqued my bolts yesterday with an impact wrench.. Replaced some of them cause I broke them.

Unfortunatly it made little difference.. The vibes are still there, they changed a little.. but still sucks at 65 MPH... hands are tingling after about an hour ride.

Next thing is to try some silicone.. last resort will be the gorilla glue. I think my vibration problem may be engine related.. mabye something a little bent inside.. The engine runs great .. but I wonder if reving the heck out of it for the first year with the stock 56t sprocket may have twisted something.

On the bright side, I fabricated a new battery bracket out of some free metal given to me by the dealer I bought it from. I re inforced it so it should not break again.

Ken

Ken


 
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Old 06-19-2008, 11:36 PM   #4
justinkr58   justinkr58 is offline
 
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I did the glue thing but with silicone instead , what i did was like put the bolt in partially squeef some silicone in the open end and draw it in like a syringe, then i plugged the open end and pushed the bolt in and that made the silicone ooz back over the bolt and force its way to fill in the air gap in the hole.,,, does that make sence? andway it was like night and day, i took it out for 2 hours and the vibes were much better


 
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Old 06-19-2008, 11:38 PM   #5
justinkr58   justinkr58 is offline
 
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how bout a little shot of expanding fast foam in the hole, be carefull not to get on skin ,


 
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Old 06-20-2008, 01:31 AM   #6
newbie555   newbie555 is offline
 
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i think the real key is to redrill the holes and put the bigger bolts in. it really takes the slack up


 
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Old 06-20-2008, 10:27 AM   #7
fatboy250   fatboy250 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkr58
I did the glue thing but with silicone instead , what i did was like put the bolt in partially squeef some silicone in the open end and draw it in like a syringe, then i plugged the open end and pushed the bolt in and that made the silicone ooz back over the bolt and force its way to fill in the air gap in the hole.,,, does that make sence? andway it was like night and day, i took it out for 2 hours and the vibes were much better
This technique makes perfect sense. I was wondering how to get complete coverage in the hole. This should do it.
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:12 PM   #8
Frog   Frog is offline
 
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I have just done the same as justinkr58 - using standard size bolts and high temp silicone sealant. Huge difference - much reduced vibes.

I also found out that the red high temp silicone (only stuff I could get) is just the worst stuff for getting everywhere

I had a moment's anxiety about using silicone which releases Acetic acid (vinegar I think!) when curing but tests on for spare bolts suggest this is a non-issue.

I almost have a silicone mounted engine 8O

Frog


 
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:17 PM   #9
yurkia   yurkia is offline
 
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Hrmm silicone implant engine....kinky
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:19 PM   #10
fatboy250   fatboy250 is offline
 
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I used the same technique with GG and just did the biggest rear bottom bolts. It seems to be ok so far I will know in a few more miles. I thought I had this thing figured out a couple times before....so I hesitate to say that it's fixed.
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:23 PM   #11
srreynolds2003   srreynolds2003 is offline
 
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what silicon are you using?? Brand name? Etc...Maybe a photo.
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:30 PM   #12
Frog   Frog is offline
 
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Silicone I used is from a builders merchant in a big tube you use with a caulking gun - cost in the UK £3.75- about $7 or £8 and if it does not set in the tube I have enough to last a life time and then some.................

The intended application is fitting cooker flues / chimneys and fitting cooker glass doors etc - heat resistant to 300f

Frog


 
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:34 PM   #13
srreynolds2003   srreynolds2003 is offline
 
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thanks I will check out my local hardware store for something with high heat resistance.
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:35 PM   #14
Frog   Frog is offline
 
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Hey Yurkia

if I use some more do you think it will become a 250???

Frog


 
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Old 07-01-2008, 08:43 AM   #15
fatboy250   fatboy250 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frog
Silicone I used is from a builders merchant in a big tube you use with a caulking gun - cost in the UK £3.75- about $7 or £8 and if it does not set in the tube I have enough to last a life time and then some.................

The intended application is fitting cooker flues / chimneys and fitting cooker glass doors etc - heat resistant to 300f

Frog
Does it harden or stay flexible?
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