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Old 05-31-2008, 06:00 PM   #1
jayg   jayg is offline
 
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What motor oil is best?

Is any one using pure synthetic? What is your favorite?


 
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Old 05-31-2008, 06:31 PM   #2
yurkia   yurkia is offline
 
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I use Rotella 15w-40 Heavy Duty.
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Old 05-31-2008, 07:48 PM   #3
katoranger   katoranger is offline
 
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Whatever one you like.

I have used valvoline maxlife semi-syn, but the shell is what I use most of the time.

Allen
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Old 06-01-2008, 10:04 AM   #4
kens97sto171   kens97sto171 is offline
 
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Used Lucas Full Synth Motorcycle oil last time, They were out of the full synth brand I normally use... $8 a qrt. But I think its cheap insurance for these hard working engines.

Ken


 
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Old 06-07-2008, 11:26 AM   #5
firemannw   firemannw is offline
 
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Guys I found this article very interesting in regards to motor oil. It compares motorcycle oils with automobile oils and the automobile oils out perform. Here is the link to the article; results are at the bottom of the article. READ THIS AND YOU MIGHT SAVE SOME MONEY.

http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm

Thanks,
Noah


 
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Old 06-07-2008, 01:41 PM   #6
IronFist   IronFist is offline
 
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Ok I was gonna post this in misc, but here will do, it's not an enduro question, but it has to do with oil, so........

I got a 72 cb 350. I was using 10-40/Synth. but I developed a head gasket leak. (not bad, but noticable) I changed to 10-40 dino for 4 stroke motorcycles. I just finnished running it hard on the highway, the gasket looks tight, no oil splash.

But now, I find that sometimes it's hard to downshift, and almost impossible to find neutral. Any thoughts of which weight I might try next?
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Old 06-07-2008, 05:21 PM   #7
rigidchop   rigidchop is offline
 
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i have a 75 cb 750 and was always told not to use syn oil in it as it could cause a gasket leak. i run valvoline 20/50 motorcycle oil in it and it works better than anything i have tried. in my 87 suzuki savage i run mobil v twin syn oil in it. i just switched though so i cant comment yet.


 
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Old 06-07-2008, 06:18 PM   #8
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I use regular Valvoline car oil in all my motorcycles and cars. Never had a problem with it.

Q


 
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Old 06-08-2008, 10:52 AM   #9
firemannw   firemannw is offline
 
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Hey guys I've got a question for you. I've had my Komoto 250 enfuro for a little less then a month and have changed the oil using 10W 40. That's what alot of guys here said they use and its what Tim at Vbike said to use. But this is my question the metal plate on the neck of the Bike says use 5w 50.
Can I keep using 10w 40 without damaging the bike or do I need to go to 5w 50 like the metal plates says?

Thanks,
Noah


 
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Old 06-08-2008, 11:30 AM   #10
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I think 5w50 comes in full synthetic ONLY!

This kinda blows the whole "break it in,before u use synthetic" theory out of the water...

I would stick with what your using.......Remember the china bikes use 20 year old technology. No synthetic 20 years ago.

DannyB.


 
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Old 06-08-2008, 12:50 PM   #11
warrior91   warrior91 is offline
 
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5w50 just encompases every temperature variation known in North America.
10w30 is good overall....10w 40 is good for hot weather, and 5w30 is good for cold weather.
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Old 06-08-2008, 01:00 PM   #12
IronFist   IronFist is offline
 
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As long as your gaskets and oil seals are new, I like synth. Enen in the chinabike I had. As soon as I do my gaskets and oil seals in the cb I will go synth again.

rigidchop:
"i run valvoline 20/50 motorcycle oil in it and it works better than anything i have tried."

I'm sure that going with the heavier weight is best for your gaskets rigidchop. I think that's the way I'll go next change. I think the engine has to push a little harder, but I need to find a dino oil that lets me shift better. I would have thought that with a hard shifting bike would need a lighter weight oil? But a lighter weight oil might get my gaskets weeping again?

I can't get rottella cheap. Canadian Tire is the most convienent place to get oil. There is only a couple brands of bike oil there. I'm told "energy conserving" in the SAE circle is bad for auto oil, in bikes. I've never seen "Energy Conserving" on a bottle of car oil. Almost all car oil labels I've read say something I don't need like detergents. It's 2 litres a change. That's about 7$ for dino. I guess I'll have to do a bunch of testing, I like testing. Only problem is that I'll have to take the stuff I don't like to the recycling center.
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Old 06-08-2008, 01:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warrior91
5w50 just encompases every temperature variation known in North America.
10w30 is good overall....10w 40 is good for hot weather, and 5w30 is good for cold weather.
The point I was trying to make is this, You should break your engine in with regular old oil,Not synthetic. But, His bike is calling for 5w50 wich is synthetic.

Soo, On his new motorcycle should he use the recommended synthetic or the non-synthetic??

My opinion, Don not use the 5w50.......(My original post was in response to firemannw)


 
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Old 06-08-2008, 01:56 PM   #14
VinceDrake   VinceDrake is offline
 
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Oil threads to motorcycles forums are like cheesies to porn.

That being said-- On my four stroke horses, I run Lucas 20w50 Motorcycle Synthetic. I can't speak or engine wear protection, but to echo TheFistofIron, you can feel the difference in the shift quality. Especially on the 900, It's the difference between horrible BMW noise all the time and SuperSlickSuzukiShift.

On the China Built ATVS I run Lucas 5w30 until it get brutal hot out, Haven't had any problems with clutch slip yet, So I figure I'm okay.

To touch on something in another section, regarding oil changes: Lots, and Lots, and lots. I would be surprised if I covered 500kms on the ATVS between slime changes. My reasoning is, being a one lung engine, they are constantly 'breathing' though the vent tube. i.e. Everytime the piston goes down, the crankcase is pressurized, Everytime it goes up, the Case is under (slight) vaccum. In a multi-cylender engine, the pressure is (Somewhat) equalized, as there is always a piston travelling in the opposite direction. (Unless of course we're talking about old british stuff, in which case it won't hold the oil long enough to matter anyways) To sum up what I am trying to get at, whatever is on the air filter, probably got sucked into the crankcase too. Dirt and Dust is not magnetic, nor the aluminum wearing off the inside of the block, therefore I change the oil lots and figure it's cheap insurance. Whereas my Honda, running on synth, I aim for 3500kms and usually get to it by 4000kms.

To Sum Up: Multicylendar engines with a decent breather system-- Long oil change interval. One Lung, with a hose hanging (down!) from the crankcase, running in the dust, Lots changes, and a bunch of Used Oil to put in your diesel engines!.

--Vince
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Old 06-08-2008, 03:25 PM   #15
IronFist   IronFist is offline
 
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Thanks folks! Got what I need.

Tecleose:
I know no worries, I think you are right. Dino for break in.

VinceDrake:
Exactly right, change dino a lot, expecially on 1 banger.


 
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