New to Chinese machines

Jtsonisdc · 01-10-2021, 12:51 PM

Hello, I am new to this whole Chinese ATV world. I recently purchased a Tao 110cc for my 8 year old son and a Tao Rhino 250cc for myself so we can ride around together. I have been seeing a lot about upgrading CDI boxes, carbs, sprockets and adding wheel extenders. While we are waiting for the ATVS's to be delivered which will probably take 2 months I'm assuming, I just wanted to figure out what I should look into doing to the ATV'S once they come in since I will have to order these parts. Any input would be appreciated.

miatawnt2b · 01-10-2021, 09:17 PM

Adjust the valves before you even start them. Other than that, make sure everything is tight and enjoy the heck out of them.

sup_fulks · 02-01-2021, 06:06 PM

I bought air/gas filled shocks from ebay, i have different atvs than you so the part numbers won't help you but one thing consistent is these ATVs have rock hard coilovers from the factory.
I did a NGK spark
I tried to go 1 tooth smaller on the crank sprocket (From 12T to 11T) on my Apollo Blazer9.
I bought a wider handle bar for kids quad for easier turning.
I tried a new carb for Blazer9, avoid the knock-off Mikuni's they suck as bad as the OEM. Try a Nibbi carb.
2" wheel spacers for the rear
And no after all these mods you still won't come close to spending as much as a new Polaris or Japanese bike!

miatawnt2b · 02-01-2021, 08:45 PM

Also, Don't assume because the castle nut came with a cotter pin that the bolt is tight. It's likely not. When you check the bolts, remove the cotter pins also and tighten the castle nuts.

-J

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 02-02-2021, 01:46 PM

you say 2 months for delivery?WOW.... are they backorder around you as well.???? I know this summer there was a shortage because of the covid shutdown... And there was a shortage of parts and units... wonder if it is going to be like that this summer... I know I am stocking up in my supply of units in CANADA.. .. YES like others tell you... remove the cotter pins... check the tightness of all nuts... from the tierod castella nuts to the wheel bearing and axle nuts.... use the proper 15-40 motor oil... there is break in oil in it when you get it,,,,, change it after you start it... a good thing to check the valve adjustment... alot of times the intake is tight... there is alot of how to do videos on youtube... check your chain adjustment... measure from the front wheels to the back wheels... make sure you loosen the bolts that hold your swingarm to the frame good and loose.... this makes the adjusting bolts easy to adjust the spread..... that way you do not strip them..... and once all set.... make sure you TIGHTEN the 4 bolts... good and tight.... do as told... pick up some spare parts... like brake pads.... they wear out fast.. you will probadly wear them out in a couple of months. cdi is good for a spare... and then the other parts that are mention above... ok.. so check youtube and ask questions here... alot of help here

Mudflap · 02-03-2021, 09:17 AM

On the Rhino I recommend popping the seals and greasing all wheel and axle bearings. Only tighten the front axle nuts finger tight or the side load will damage the bearings because the spacer is too wimpy or too short. On the rear axle don't over tighten the jam nuts for the same reason. Lift the rubber on ball joints and tie rod ends and squeeze in some grease. The swing arm pivot bearings can't really be greased without pushing them out but they will eventually fail so it may be a good idea to have spares along with a new spacer/inner race which will be damaged by lack of grease.

I would slot the float bowl screws and remove the plug over the pilot screw. You'll need to get in there eventually.

If you want to carry a spare CDI, only get an OEM unit from Parts kit, a generic one has the wrong timing.

My Rhino has over 1000 hours now so you might search my posts for more tips.

The shocks will fail eventually but 375mm front and 400mm rear replacements are readily available.

Lube all cables well.

Gearing may be too tall depending on your use so there are options. I recommend changing to either a 13/40 or 12/40 ratio by switching to a 428 chain and sprockets. JTF259.12 or JTF 259.13 drive sprocket and an OEM 40 tooth rear sprocket from a Taotao ATA250D quad. A good Oring chain will last a very long time if run dry except for occasionally lubing the Orings.

miatawnt2b · 02-04-2021, 07:49 PM

@Mudflap

I have a Vitaci Cougar sport 200, Bull150, and several 125D's. Should these spindle/axle nuts be only hand tight as well? I'm thinking I might want to loosen mine up as they we cranked on pretty good. I had figured since they were captured bearings they were supposed to be tight tight. FWIW, my wheels spin freely.

Mudflap · 02-05-2021, 04:32 AM

The jam nuts should be tight against each other but just snug against the brake hub (or sprocket hub depending on the model). If tight against the hub and bearings it will side load the axle bearings. The tube spacer between the bearings should prevent a side load but is either too short or too flimsy to be effective. When the bearings chew themselves up the axle will spin in the bearings and ware a groove in the axle.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 02-05-2021, 03:08 PM

the rear axle jam nuts should be set like this... turn the nut until you contact the bearing( or spacer) and then tighten the outside nut GOOD AND TIGHT... that way the slack is all out of the axle... no side play,, and the lock nut will hold it set...
the same as the front... take up the slack on the front wheel bearings.. free play... you can not feel any side play... they just turn it until you can get the cotter pin and lock it in place..... key thing to do.... is use a GOOD cotter pin... a steel one... you might change the factory pin to a good quality one... they are cheap at the hardware store.... or HARBOR FREIGHT ...

Jtsonisdc · 02-09-2021, 11:58 AM

So update on my ATV’s. Still waiting for the Rhino, but I ended up switching from the 110 Boulder to the 125 Dozer for my son since Q9 had it in stock and will be shipping it out within a week to 10 days. At least I can get working on my sons before my Rhino gets here. They are saying the Rhino was supposed to be shipped next week, but other distributors are saying they won’t be getting any rhinos in until March so I’m going with they’re estimate.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 02-09-2021, 04:57 PM

yes it is hard to believe that the ATV are so far back... I am getting a 40 ft container of atvs shipped to CANADA ,, they say.. in MAY.... last year it was really delayed... around 3 months behind production.. my stuff was suppose to be here... august.... it was not here until NOV.... drove me crazy with all the delays.. and then Customs wanted to do a check and unload it to check them... that cost extra $$$ for them to do that... over $2000.00 plus... but I got lucky and they did not.. the rates to ship have doubled and the suplier has the upper hand on the price..

crazythunder · 02-09-2021, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sup_fulks

but one thing consistent is these ATVs have rock hard coilovers from the factory.

???

sup_fulks · 02-10-2021, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crazythunder

???

super stiff i find them to be

01-10-2021, 12:51 PM	#1
Jtsonisdc Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: massachusetts Posts: 12	New to Chinese machines Hello, I am new to this whole Chinese ATV world. I recently purchased a Tao 110cc for my 8 year old son and a Tao Rhino 250cc for myself so we can ride around together. I have been seeing a lot about upgrading CDI boxes, carbs, sprockets and adding wheel extenders. While we are waiting for the ATVS's to be delivered which will probably take 2 months I'm assuming, I just wanted to figure out what I should look into doing to the ATV'S once they come in since I will have to order these parts. Any input would be appreciated.
	0

02-02-2021, 01:46 PM	#5
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	shipping you say 2 months for delivery?WOW.... are they backorder around you as well.???? I know this summer there was a shortage because of the covid shutdown... And there was a shortage of parts and units... wonder if it is going to be like that this summer... I know I am stocking up in my supply of units in CANADA.. .. YES like others tell you... remove the cotter pins... check the tightness of all nuts... from the tierod castella nuts to the wheel bearing and axle nuts.... use the proper 15-40 motor oil... there is break in oil in it when you get it,,,,, change it after you start it... a good thing to check the valve adjustment... alot of times the intake is tight... there is alot of how to do videos on youtube... check your chain adjustment... measure from the front wheels to the back wheels... make sure you loosen the bolts that hold your swingarm to the frame good and loose.... this makes the adjusting bolts easy to adjust the spread..... that way you do not strip them..... and once all set.... make sure you TIGHTEN the 4 bolts... good and tight.... do as told... pick up some spare parts... like brake pads.... they wear out fast.. you will probadly wear them out in a couple of months. cdi is good for a spare... and then the other parts that are mention above... ok.. so check youtube and ask questions here... alot of help here __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	1

02-05-2021, 03:08 PM	#9
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	nuts the rear axle jam nuts should be set like this... turn the nut until you contact the bearing( or spacer) and then tighten the outside nut GOOD AND TIGHT... that way the slack is all out of the axle... no side play,, and the lock nut will hold it set... the same as the front... take up the slack on the front wheel bearings.. free play... you can not feel any side play... they just turn it until you can get the cotter pin and lock it in place..... key thing to do.... is use a GOOD cotter pin... a steel one... you might change the factory pin to a good quality one... they are cheap at the hardware store.... or HARBOR FREIGHT ... __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	0

02-09-2021, 04:57 PM	#11
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	stock yes it is hard to believe that the ATV are so far back... I am getting a 40 ft container of atvs shipped to CANADA ,, they say.. in MAY.... last year it was really delayed... around 3 months behind production.. my stuff was suppose to be here... august.... it was not here until NOV.... drove me crazy with all the delays.. and then Customs wanted to do a check and unload it to check them... that cost extra $$$ for them to do that... over $2000.00 plus... but I got lucky and they did not.. the rates to ship have doubled and the suplier has the upper hand on the price.. __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	0

01-10-2021, 09:17 PM	#2
miatawnt2b Join Date: Dec 2020 Posts: 78	Adjust the valves before you even start them. Other than that, make sure everything is tight and enjoy the heck out of them.
	1

02-01-2021, 06:06 PM	#3
sup_fulks Join Date: Feb 2021 Posts: 13	I bought air/gas filled shocks from ebay, i have different atvs than you so the part numbers won't help you but one thing consistent is these ATVs have rock hard coilovers from the factory. I did a NGK spark I tried to go 1 tooth smaller on the crank sprocket (From 12T to 11T) on my Apollo Blazer9. I bought a wider handle bar for kids quad for easier turning. I tried a new carb for Blazer9, avoid the knock-off Mikuni's they suck as bad as the OEM. Try a Nibbi carb. 2" wheel spacers for the rear And no after all these mods you still won't come close to spending as much as a new Polaris or Japanese bike!
	1

02-01-2021, 08:45 PM	#4
miatawnt2b Join Date: Dec 2020 Posts: 78	Also, Don't assume because the castle nut came with a cotter pin that the bolt is tight. It's likely not. When you check the bolts, remove the cotter pins also and tighten the castle nuts. -J
	1

02-03-2021, 09:17 AM	#6
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,894	On the Rhino I recommend popping the seals and greasing all wheel and axle bearings. Only tighten the front axle nuts finger tight or the side load will damage the bearings because the spacer is too wimpy or too short. On the rear axle don't over tighten the jam nuts for the same reason. Lift the rubber on ball joints and tie rod ends and squeeze in some grease. The swing arm pivot bearings can't really be greased without pushing them out but they will eventually fail so it may be a good idea to have spares along with a new spacer/inner race which will be damaged by lack of grease. I would slot the float bowl screws and remove the plug over the pilot screw. You'll need to get in there eventually. If you want to carry a spare CDI, only get an OEM unit from Parts kit, a generic one has the wrong timing. My Rhino has over 1000 hours now so you might search my posts for more tips. The shocks will fail eventually but 375mm front and 400mm rear replacements are readily available. Lube all cables well. Gearing may be too tall depending on your use so there are options. I recommend changing to either a 13/40 or 12/40 ratio by switching to a 428 chain and sprockets. JTF259.12 or JTF 259.13 drive sprocket and an OEM 40 tooth rear sprocket from a Taotao ATA250D quad. A good Oring chain will last a very long time if run dry except for occasionally lubing the Orings.
	0

02-04-2021, 07:49 PM	#7
miatawnt2b Join Date: Dec 2020 Posts: 78	@Mudflap I have a Vitaci Cougar sport 200, Bull150, and several 125D's. Should these spindle/axle nuts be only hand tight as well? I'm thinking I might want to loosen mine up as they we cranked on pretty good. I had figured since they were captured bearings they were supposed to be tight tight. FWIW, my wheels spin freely.
	1

02-05-2021, 04:32 AM	#8
Mudflap Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 1,894	The jam nuts should be tight against each other but just snug against the brake hub (or sprocket hub depending on the model). If tight against the hub and bearings it will side load the axle bearings. The tube spacer between the bearings should prevent a side load but is either too short or too flimsy to be effective. When the bearings chew themselves up the axle will spin in the bearings and ware a groove in the axle.
	0

02-09-2021, 11:58 AM	#10
Jtsonisdc Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: massachusetts Posts: 12	So update on my ATV’s. Still waiting for the Rhino, but I ended up switching from the 110 Boulder to the 125 Dozer for my son since Q9 had it in stock and will be shipping it out within a week to 10 days. At least I can get working on my sons before my Rhino gets here. They are saying the Rhino was supposed to be shipped next week, but other distributors are saying they won’t be getting any rhinos in until March so I’m going with they’re estimate.
	0