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Old 10-11-2020, 12:22 AM   #1
DualSportChris   DualSportChris is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 4
Brozz Front Brake Caliper Upgrade?

Hey All,

Been enjoying my Brozz for the last year using all the information from this site.

However, the front brake on my Brozz has always been really weak. I "bedded" in the pads with some sandpaper and that helped a little bit.

I was researching and found that the Hawk has a 2 piston front caliper while my Brozz is a 1 piston "hockey puck" style caliper. Will the Hawk front caliper work on mine? My Brozz has regular forks, not the newer USD fork model.


Thanks for the help!


 
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Old 10-12-2020, 11:39 AM   #2
DualSportChris   DualSportChris is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 4
Any ideas? I think it would be a worthwhile upgrade from the single piston caliper?


 
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Old 10-12-2020, 09:35 PM   #3
gwowzer   gwowzer is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 297
Sounds to me like you are having some sort of other underlying issue. The front brake on mine has always been very strong. Maybe try another bleed and double check all your fittings? Make sure everything is installed right and tightened.


 
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Old 10-12-2020, 09:37 PM   #4
gwowzer   gwowzer is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Central Ohio
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Did you change out your brake fluid from stock?


 
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Old 10-12-2020, 11:44 PM   #5
DualSportChris   DualSportChris is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
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Yup, I did a gravity bleed and used DOT 4, there doesn't seem to be any air in the lines, the lever isn't spongy.

To speed up bedding in the brakes, I used 60 grit on the rotor and pads and that helped.

I took it out again today and noticed something I didn't before; when sitting at a traffic light with the brake lever pulled, it will slowly sink down until touching the bar. If I release the lever and squeeze again, it works. Looks like the master cylinder piston seal is leaking?

If so, is it worth repairing, or should I get a complete master cylinder like this one from Amazon?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1BNQTS/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2L77EE7 U53NWQ

Thanks


 
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Old 10-13-2020, 09:30 AM   #6
paulsstag   paulsstag is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Silver City New Mexico
Posts: 290
Quote:
Originally Posted by DualSportChris View Post
Yup, I did a gravity bleed and used DOT 4, there doesn't seem to be any air in the lines, the lever isn't spongy.

To speed up bedding in the brakes, I used 60 grit on the rotor and pads and that helped.

I took it out again today and noticed something I didn't before; when sitting at a traffic light with the brake lever pulled, it will slowly sink down until touching the bar. If I release the lever and squeeze again, it works. Looks like the master cylinder piston seal is leaking?

If so, is it worth repairing, or should I get a complete master cylinder like this one from Amazon?
amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1BNQTS/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?

ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1BNQTS/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2L77EE7 U53NWQ

Thanks
The size they mention in the link is the handlebar size 7/8 which is great but more important is the piston size in the master cyl itself . If the piston is larger diameter it moves more fluid per pull but has less pressure going to the caliper for braking force. the opposite is also true in that a small internal piston will have to move through the stroke further but will give more pressure at the caliper given the same force to the lever.

For $16 its worth a try but normally a brake master cyl and caliper is matched so a dual piston caliper may? need more fluid to move so its matched to the master cyl with a bigger bore.?

I don't mean to over think this but right now your brake sucks , most likely from a bad master cyl . Its probably not worth the effort to rebuild what you have. I would take a chance on the $16 one and see what happens. If i was not happy i would replace the caliper and master cyl with a matched set (assuming the caliper is a bolt on rather than make brackets).

Just my thoughts
Paul


 
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Old 10-14-2020, 05:32 AM   #7
Spins   Spins is offline
 
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[QUOTE I took it out again today and noticed something I didn't before; when sitting at a traffic light with the brake lever pulled, it will slowly sink down until touching the bar. If I release the lever and squeeze again, it works. Looks like the master cylinder piston seal is leaking.[/QUOTE]

The same thing happened to me right after I bled my brakes with new fluid. My bike was new and Jeff shipped me an all new sealed front brake assembly, (master cylinder, line , caliper and pads). I sanded the new pads, bedded them and called it a day. They still suck, no bite! Compounding the issue is the rear drums on my bike.
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:36 AM   #8
DualSportChris   DualSportChris is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 4
I swapped out the master cylinder with the one I linked to on Amazon in my prior text, works great and slightly more fluid capacity too. It fits just like the original except the fitting is on the front instead of the side. I like that design better, keeps the brake line out of the way of the triple tree.

I also fitted an SS brake line,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F9NB1NT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got this in the 120CM size, which was perfect. The bends at the end are great, direct bolt on. For 18 bucks, it was a great inexpensive upgrade.

This fixed the leakdown problem. It changed the front brake performance from dangerous to just OK.

Still looking for a cheap caliper upgrade. Anyone else got any ideas? I think the extra pad contact surface and pressure from the dual piston model from the hawk might help.



Chris


 
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