Stupid assembly question. Tops of forks?

khigh · 05-15-2018, 05:31 PM

Is there some sort of detent to secure them in a certain position in relation to the handlebar plate? Or just eyeball it? Kind of level with the top of the plate and torque the hell out of the six little bolts?

I see the bottoms rotate around on their own after the tops are mounted. So is there any reason to worry about side-to-side/rotational alignment at the top?

Thanks.

Megadan · 05-15-2018, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by khigh

Is there some sort of detent to secure them in a certain position in relation to the handlebar plate? Or just eyeball it? Kind of level with the top of the plate and torque the hell out of the six little bolts?

I see the bottoms rotate around on their own after the tops are mounted. So is there any reason to worry about side-to-side/rotational alignment at the top?

Thanks.

Not stupid at all. Get the top of the tubes/bottom of the caps level with the upper clamp plate. A good way to know if you have them even is if the axle bolt can slide freely through both forks and the wheel without having to hit it with anything other than your hand.

The 6 pinch bolts are not torqued down very hard. Maybe 12 to 15 ft-lbs. Go too tight and you will atrip the threads. This is a good place for loctite as well.

khigh · 05-15-2018, 06:57 PM

Thanks!

I guess I shouldn't have limited it to "question", singular.

The bushing that's on the front axle when it's in the crate. It's not used? I haven't found a home for it.

timcosby · 05-16-2018, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by khigh

Thanks!

I guess I shouldn't have limited it to "question", singular.

The bushing that's on the front axle when it's in the crate. It's not used? I haven't found a home for it.

maybe a pic of it cause they all come shipped a diff way seems like. there is a small silver bushing that goes on the axle but i dont know if thats the one your referring to. mine was tied to the speedo cable.

ben2go · 05-16-2018, 03:54 PM

Set the forks where you want them. Snug the triple clamp bolts up. Install the wheel. Then back off the triple clamp bolts on one side. Grab the fork lowers and give them a good shaking left to right. Then torque the triple clamp bolts. It has worked for me on many bikes. Make sure the bike is secure or have someone hold it so it doesn't fall over.

khigh · 05-16-2018, 09:24 PM

Here it is stuck on the end of the thread.

It just seemed to be an awfully nice bushing to be relegated to packaging material, and even then it was serving no purpose.

ChipToothy · 05-16-2018, 11:43 PM

Mine went between the forks to keep the wheel centered. There was/is another one nearly like it but 1/2 the size waiting around for a job. I swear they sent me a bag of "spare parts" for some random kids scooter out here somewhere.

Megadan · 05-17-2018, 03:53 AM

That looks to be your left side wheel spacer. It should be on the other side of that fork between the wheel and the fork lower.

**JerryHawk250** · 05-17-2018, 07:44 AM

Yep, Goes between the fork and disk rotor.

khigh · 05-17-2018, 01:28 PM

OK thanks. That was the most counterintuitive part inclusion I've ever seen on anything. I hope that there's a recess in the fork boss or rotor, because as you can see, there's not enough thread to add it outright.

Megadan · 05-17-2018, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by khigh

OK thanks. That was the most counterintuitive part inclusion I've ever seen on anything. I hope that there's a recess in the fork boss or rotor, because as you can see, there's not enough thread to add it outright.

The recess is in the wheel hub itself. It sits inside of the wheel seal on that side of the wheel and sits between the wheel bearing and the fork itself. Since it sits inside of the seal, it actually takes up less room than you are visually believing it to.

khigh · 05-19-2018, 07:22 PM

Thanks for the advice so far. I've been using the "silent" assembly video - leaves a little to be desired. I finally caught him slipping that bushing inthe wheel with all the sleight of hand of a top rate magician. Way to go, instructive video person.

Now I've got these parts unaccounted for.

A small cotter pin (not for the rear brake)
One small washer - all the rest were large body panel washers. I have bolts left over, but this was only ever the only one.
A large "serrated"? O=ring?
Two large rubber washers.
A clear plastic tube.
Two little rubber "top hats"

Any ideas?

timcosby · 05-20-2018, 11:40 PM

the clear tube attaches to the battery.

redneck51587 · 05-21-2018, 05:04 PM

The rubber serrated washer is for the cluster. The two top hat grommets are for the headlight assembly... they go on the two tabs at the bottom before inserting them into the tree of the bike. Clear tube is the battery overflow tube. That tiny washer and cotter pin is for the little pin that attaches the rear brake lever to the rear master cylinder.

khigh · 05-21-2018, 05:40 PM

Thanks for the tips.

I was just coming to say I'd figured out the serrated grommet. The battery tube makes perfect sense.

So the brake parts are spares? Because those pieces are already accounted for.

The cotter pin was my main concern, but if it's just a spare for the brake, no biggie. I just didn't want to start it and rattle something loose.

Might be starting her up tonight. (Yes I've been going super slow)

05-15-2018, 05:31 PM	#1
khigh Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 41	Stupid assembly question. Tops of forks? Is there some sort of detent to secure them in a certain position in relation to the handlebar plate? Or just eyeball it? Kind of level with the top of the plate and torque the hell out of the six little bolts? I see the bottoms rotate around on their own after the tops are mounted. So is there any reason to worry about side-to-side/rotational alignment at the top? Thanks.
	0

05-17-2018, 03:53 AM	#8
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,044	That looks to be your left side wheel spacer. It should be on the other side of that fork between the wheel and the fork lower. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	3

05-17-2018, 07:44 AM	#9
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,580	Yep, Goes between the fork and disk rotor. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
	2

05-20-2018, 11:40 PM	#13
timcosby Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: robertsdale alabama usa Posts: 1,007	the clear tube attaches to the battery. __________________ 1991 harley heritage softail classic 2016 hawk kaw h1 400 tripple 13' long chopper in progress 2009 johnny pag bar hog 2004 hd electra glide ultra classic shriner edition 1997 harley davidson 1200 sportster 1972 harley davidson amf sx250
	1

05-21-2018, 05:04 PM	#14
redneck51587 Join Date: Apr 2018 Location: Milford, IN Posts: 27	The rubber serrated washer is for the cluster. The two top hat grommets are for the headlight assembly... they go on the two tabs at the bottom before inserting them into the tree of the bike. Clear tube is the battery overflow tube. That tiny washer and cotter pin is for the little pin that attaches the rear brake lever to the rear master cylinder. __________________ 2017 Hawk 250 2007 Honda VTX1300R 2016 Kawasaki Vulcan Voyager
	2

05-15-2018, 06:57 PM	#3
khigh Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 41	Thanks! I guess I shouldn't have limited it to "question", singular. The bushing that's on the front axle when it's in the crate. It's not used? I haven't found a home for it.
	0

05-16-2018, 03:54 PM	#5
ben2go Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,335	Set the forks where you want them. Snug the triple clamp bolts up. Install the wheel. Then back off the triple clamp bolts on one side. Grab the fork lowers and give them a good shaking left to right. Then torque the triple clamp bolts. It has worked for me on many bikes. Make sure the bike is secure or have someone hold it so it doesn't fall over.
	2

05-16-2018, 11:43 PM	#7
ChipToothy Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 819	Mine went between the forks to keep the wheel centered. There was/is another one nearly like it but 1/2 the size waiting around for a job. I swear they sent me a bag of "spare parts" for some random kids scooter out here somewhere.
	1

05-17-2018, 01:28 PM	#10
khigh Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 41	OK thanks. That was the most counterintuitive part inclusion I've ever seen on anything. I hope that there's a recess in the fork boss or rotor, because as you can see, there's not enough thread to add it outright.
	0

05-21-2018, 05:40 PM	#15
khigh Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 41	Thanks for the tips. I was just coming to say I'd figured out the serrated grommet. The battery tube makes perfect sense. So the brake parts are spares? Because those pieces are already accounted for. The cotter pin was my main concern, but if it's just a spare for the brake, no biggie. I just didn't want to start it and rattle something loose. Might be starting her up tonight. (Yes I've been going super slow)
	1