06-19-2016, 10:45 PM | #1 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lac Du Flambeau, WI
Posts: 804
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Hawk Stator testing or upgrading?
As i posted before, My battery was not charging. I pulled the tank and checked the output of the regulator and nothing. Pulled the plug for the stator and checked all pins using the battery for ground, Nothing. So i pulled the cover off to poke around a little and found nothing amiss. The flywheel has good magnetic pull. Can a stator be tested? Where can i find an stator with higher output? any help would be appreciated as electrical is one of my weaker points......
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06-20-2016, 12:17 AM | #2 |
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 231
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I wonder if the tt250 stator would work.
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06-20-2016, 12:22 AM | #3 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lac Du Flambeau, WI
Posts: 804
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Not sure. Also not sure if i tested it properly......
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06-20-2016, 01:07 AM | #4 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lac Du Flambeau, WI
Posts: 804
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OK, Got the OHM meter out. The ignition side is Blue/white-Green On the 20K scale it reads .13 OHMS The Yellow and White is the charge circuit. It reads "0" on 20K. Dropping it down to 2000 read "0" and at 200 read 1.0. See pics below. Also checked for shorts to ground and found none. So it seems the stator is bad if I tested it properly. Any thoughts??
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06-20-2016, 01:28 AM | #5 |
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Bismarck, ND
Posts: 868
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It's laying on a cement floor. Try putting it on a piece of wood it could be grounding out. I know that I'm not much help but I try.
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2015 and 3/4 RPS Hawk 250. Most people would call it a 2016 but the MCO didn't. |
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06-20-2016, 02:09 AM | #6 | |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lac Du Flambeau, WI
Posts: 804
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Quote:
Last 3 pics where on a workbench...... |
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06-20-2016, 04:35 AM | #7 |
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Hacienda Heights, Ca
Posts: 281
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1 ohm seems too low, but you need the specs for your stator to know for sure. I think I saw it here recently, I believe it was posted by human being.
Edit: having in on the cement, wood, steel, etc. makes no difference. |
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06-20-2016, 09:19 AM | #8 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,436
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Healthy stator:
[Energy] Source aka exciter... Bl/R >50V | 300-600Ω Bypass it w/ "DC-CDI" is a streetwise fix [When] Pickup aka trigger... Bu/W >0.5V | 120-180Ω [To r/r] Yellow /pink /white... Full wave NO continuity to gnd/ <2 ohm btw either wires === Typical "8"
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Last edited by humanbeing; 07-27-2016 at 09:49 PM. |
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06-21-2016, 11:35 AM | #10 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lac Du Flambeau, WI
Posts: 804
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So anyone have a link for a replacement? Running into dead ends. Want to get the bike running again....
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06-21-2016, 11:44 AM | #11 |
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: NY
Posts: 174
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maybe this will help you with the resistance testing http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/Articles.asp?ID=304
I don't see why the upgraded tt250 stator wouldn't work, but then again I don't even think they have replacement parts in stock yet.
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2005 CBR600RR
2016 CSC TT250 Coming Soon |
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06-21-2016, 12:29 PM | #12 | |
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Hacienda Heights, Ca
Posts: 281
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Quote:
From that tutorial: "The next step is to measure the output of the charging system at the crankshaft. We’ll check for AC voltage and resistance. Find the charging circuit harness with the engine running and measure the AC voltage between all three leads. At idle, it should be 12 VDC. With the engine at maximum rpm, it should be 60 VDC." Note that they state 12 and 60 VDC, those should both read VAC. They don't tell you how it's measured: put one meter lead to ground (clip to the battery - or any clean chassis ground) and touch the other lead to each of the stator wires one at a time. All outputs should read pretty close to each other when tested at the same RPM. This is high voltage and will give you a good tingle if you touch any of the outputs so be careful. The only reason to upgrade to a higher output stator is if you're adding accessories that will demand more power than the stock one can supply. A higher output stator isn't any more reliable than a low output one. It'll run hotter, put more load on the engine, and the regulator will run hotter too. The TT comes with accessory outputs from the factory so they've upped the stator power to keep up with the potential extra demand. If you do upgrade the stator you might need to upgrade the regulator and some wiring as well so that everything handles the extra amperage. How it works: the stator is always putting out max power, it's not directly regulated. The regulator absorbs any extra power not consumed by shunting it to ground, it's basically a controlled short circuit that's wasting any excess current to keep the voltage from going too high. So the engine is always loaded by however many watts the stator can put out and the regulator is always turning any unused power into heat. Not a great way to do it, but it's the norm on bikes. There are new regulators called series regulator that work more efficiently but they're beyond CB budget; $200+ I believe. |
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06-21-2016, 12:32 PM | #13 | |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lac Du Flambeau, WI
Posts: 804
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Quote:
Already tested it with it running and had no output at all...... |
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06-21-2016, 01:15 PM | #14 |
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Hacienda Heights, Ca
Posts: 281
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A little odd to have decent resistance and no output. Check that the rotor isn't slipping on the shaft before putting a new stator in.
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06-21-2016, 05:05 PM | #15 |
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 63
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Upgrading NOT recommended as said by '16 TT250. I have purchased engine parts like stators and carburetors on aliexpress.com with no problems yet.
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