Bike won't idle!

[SamM]

Did a search and found some good information but... I'm not sure where to go from here! My airbox has been removed along with all the CARB equipment. A UNI filter replaced the airbox. The clip has been moved down to the last notch on the needle.

I have not touched this screw yet. I believe this is the air/fuel mixture screw. Not sure though!



I have messed with the screw in this picture. The one on the right side of the carb body. My carb has a thumb screw here. I think this is the idle screw. It basically does nothing on my bike now. I have it turned all the way out. The bike will not idle. Turning it in makes the bike unwilling to even start.



Any thoughts? I'll appreciate any help I can get!

Thanks!

[AZ200cc]

The thumb screw that is on my bike is the idle speed adjustment. The other is the fuel air. Sorry that is all I can offer..I am sure that Red or another member can help You out more.

[msRandi]

I hope this is some help, The screw on the side of the carb is a idel stop. with the K&N tipe filter you need more fuel turn the mix screw out 2 turns, and my Viva did not want to idel till I had some hours on the motor. If you have opened up the muffler you will to rejet too.

[IronFist]

I posted a pic, page 8 of the gallery, last pic in my album. I used arrows and titled the screws. Mine is likely to be different, but close. I hope it helps? I'm using long nose forceps to get at the air/fuel mix screw.

[TeamCheap]

The carbs on both our bikes have a screw on the front of the carbs pointing down near the float bowl for pilot air/fuel mix.

Mine is pretty much the same as new2riding's setup.http://www.chinariders.net/gallery2/...g2_itemId=5273

After putting that OHC engine in with a K&N filter on it I had to readjust the needle and air/fuel on it to get it to start/run nice.I got mine to start real easy but I still think I need a slightly larger main jet.


This looks like an interesting site.http://www.hondanighthawks.net/carb14.htm

[SamM]

new2riding,
My carburetor is basically the same. The first picture in my first post did not work for some reason. Apparently, gallery pictures can't be posted. It showed the same bottom screw as your carb picture does, the one labeled air/fuel. The only difference between our carbs, is that my idle adjustment screw is bigger and I can turn it with my fingers. No tools are needed to turn it. I'll try turning the air/fuel screw out 2 turns and see what that does. I think I can get a pair of needlenose pliers on it.

So far, I have not needed to take the carb off to do any modifications to it. I moved the needle clip without even removing the throttle cable from the carb. The cap was unthreaded and I pried the retaining clip holding the needle in, apart. The needle slid right out and I changed the clip and put it back in. I then used pliers to bend the clip back into position. After doing all this I noticed that the 2 inches of slack in my throttle was suddenly gone. The throttle is much smoother now and has no slack whatsoever. Weird!

Tonight before I came in from the shop, I went for a bike ride on one of my other bikes. I was able to charge the battery a couple of hours during this time. When I got back to the shop, I hit the starter button and the bike fired right up. I had to hold the throttle open to keep it running and I went through the warmup and was able to push the choke in after the bike completely warmed up. The choke finally works now. After I adjust the air/fuel screw out 2 turns this bike may finally run correctly. I'll post results of what happens with this later today.

Thanks everyone!

[ob1]

You may have some trash in your carburetor. The idle jet is tiny, and can clog easily.

[red2003]

Sam if you had 2 inches of slack in the cable before, it wasn't in the carb body right and was hanging up. The fuel screw should be about 2 turns out. The side screw is the idle. Best bet is to back it out, get the bike running and up to temp then screw in the idle until it is where you want it. You might be flooding it out trying to start it now with the clip all the way down. You shouldn't need the choke at all if the temp is above 60 degrees.

[SamM]

red,
The 2" of slack was at the grip itself. Meaning, I had to twist the grip about 2" before anything happened at the carb. It was probably more like 1" instead of 2". I think you are right though, the cable wasn't seated into the carb body.

The air/fuel screw is probably the culprit.

ob1, good info! I'll check the fuel filter. I'm on my way to the shop now.

[ob1]

2 inches of slack could be the carb slide being reversed in the carb.

[SamM]

The cable wasn't seated into the carb body.