gio beast 200cc problems ... really confused can any1 help??

blaise · 03-10-2012, 01:35 AM

i just recently swapped a bike for this gio 200.. the guy told me that the carb had to be cleaned and that it needed a battery. i had the carb apart and everything is fine but.. anyways my problem is it ran for me when i boosted it from a running car.. would not staart without the car running, pretty sure the battery was just to dead.. anyways it ran for me for about a block then died as i was shifting gears the bike would accelerate slowly and just didnt seem to want to open the throttle open all the way it would bog down and it would just go the pace the gears took it basically i replaced the spark plug connector and coil because i noticed it was broken and taped bad, bike started again reved really high and then died now when i start it it will not rev because the rev is so high... possibly carb addjustments? kust bought battery charging now to test it out

sorry for the story lol im stumped?

MICRider · 03-10-2012, 07:16 AM

My Beast ran super crappy with the stock carb and would often bog and die when giving it gas. I fiddled with it tons and tried every adjustment I could think of but never could get it to run right. I ended up picking up one of the performance Mikuni carbs for it. Night and day difference!

jaloos · 03-10-2012, 10:47 AM

Some of these carbs have a stopper built into the bowl that will allow the float to only drop a certain amount thus not letting gas flow into the carb fast enough. On all my gio four strokes I remove this tab for faster fuel delivery.

Gio bikes are also notorious for having crappy fuel lines and filters. The fuel lines dry up and start to flake off rubber and will mess with the jets and float valve.

I would replace all my lines with good quality lines and add a new filter like the this one

Sounds to me like your running way lean. I would check all your jets and evap tubes in the carb and look for leaks in your intake manifold.

Weldangrind · 03-10-2012, 02:07 PM

Welcome blaise!

I agree with MICRider; the best solution is a new Mikuni. With a stock muffler and a pod filter, you'll run well with a 110 main and a 25 slow jet. Here's one with free shipping to your door: Carburetor Carb ATV Dirt Bike Quad Honda MIKUNI 30mm

blaise · 03-10-2012, 05:27 PM

ok so i charged the battery overnight, when i started working on it today the bike would not turn over.. still wont through the start have to jump silenoid to start it.. i think the ignition is screwed a ground wire broke out .. but anyways i took the carb apart and noticed it was dirty so when i put it back on the bike would not start at first... now when i hold the choke to the open pisiton(not manual choke) the bike will run and rev up perfectly fine untill i let go of the choke then it boggs out....... deffinitly carb issues? should i replace it for sure just dont want to waste money i dont have.. and thankyou everyone for the quick and helpfull reply

Weldangrind · 03-11-2012, 12:20 AM

Let's work on the solenoid issue, and work our way to the carb. Please describe how you're jumping the solenoid.

blaise · 03-11-2012, 12:34 AM

well i am not exactly jumping the silenoid i connect the silenoids two prongs together by screw driver. it does start the bike, when i engage clutch to start the bike the button does not even make a click.... i noticed a ground wire was ripped out of the connector, so i reconnected it into the connector but electrice start will not work, was working when i was boosting the dead battery by a started car... only the car being started would allow the electic start to work, now i have a new battery full charge so i did not hook it up to car because it shouldnt be nessesary?? this bike is confusing me but i really like the little beast work in progress.. thankyou muchly weldangrid for sharing some experience... considering changing filter and lines.. cleaning out gas tank.. and replaceing the factory carb with a minuki 35mm?

Weldangrind · 03-11-2012, 01:03 AM

I completely agree with new fuel lines and a 30mm Mikuni. The other primary priorities are an inline valve and a quality inline filter.

I've had my entire harness apart chasing an electrical problem, and it turned out to be a broken key switch. :oops: I plugged in a replacement switch that had the same connector and wire colours, but the pinout was different. D'ohh! The by-product was that I learned about the harness and how it is configured.

The power wire from the starter button travels through both brake safety switches, and they're in parallel. IOW, it doesn't matter which brake you apply; the solenoid will still engage.

Knowing that, make sure the fuse is good, turn the key on and have a helper apply the front brake. Unplug the small gauge wire connector from the solenoid and test it with a test light while pressing the starter button. If you don't have a test light, you should get one; they're cheap at Princess Auto. If the light doesn't come on, have your helper apply the rear brake and repeat the test. If you still don't get light, test both switches with a multimeter (another must have). If you do get light but the solenoid will not engage, the solenoid is suspect. You can confirm by applying 12 volts directly to the small gauge wire connector at the solenoid.

Make sense?

blaise · 03-11-2012, 02:58 PM

yesi understand... one problem the bike currently is missing one brake drum i am trying to get it to run smoothly before i get into the braking/suspension

i tried applying the back breaks and still got nothing, im thinking the connector that plugs into the ignition connector is toast the ground wire was soldered into the connector itself... started bike again today by connecting the two silenoid prongs together it now runs without the choke being applied to it but its only good for about 1/8 throttle then it start bogging.. again replacing the carb and such.. should i try finding a new connector, they have the wiring harness pretty beat up but im going to repair it wire for wire.. any suggestions?

--this site amazes me how much you know about these bikes lol great help!!!

blaise · 03-11-2012, 03:02 PM

but also before the battery was swapped the bike would start up when jumped by a car.. using the ignition

midlifekrisiz · 03-11-2012, 04:26 PM

i say it's the battery....we had the same type of problem with one of ours .... new battery and a tender solved the problem

blaise · 03-11-2012, 04:48 PM

but i took out the old battery, bought a brand new one, charged it up and the ignition just didnt work i will post, picture of this messy wiring harness tonight, i have a feeling it is the connector, not to worried about starting it right now the silenoid starts it with one wind of the starter, but its the accel and such witch i am replacing the entire fuel system!! i hope my battery is okay it cost 64$ ... still holds a charge of 12.44 without recharging it at all

MICRider · 03-11-2012, 04:57 PM

Actually I think a fully charged 12 volt battery is around 14 or so volts? I could be wrong though (Lol, and I often am!)

blaise · 03-11-2012, 07:36 PM

no a 12 volt battery is called 12 volt for a reason .. you are right ina way it is never dead on, usually 12.30-12.75ish for a full charge i have the book to the battery right next to me, also this battery has double the cca as the old one and still on a fully charge no ignition...

MICRider · 03-11-2012, 07:41 PM

Your right, I think I was thinking of the charging voltage of my bike... When I throw a voltmeter on it and rev the bike up a bit it goes to 14 or so. :oops:

03-10-2012, 01:35 AM	#1
blaise Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 8	gio beast 200cc problems ... really confused can any1 help?? i just recently swapped a bike for this gio 200.. the guy told me that the carb had to be cleaned and that it needed a battery. i had the carb apart and everything is fine but.. anyways my problem is it ran for me when i boosted it from a running car.. would not staart without the car running, pretty sure the battery was just to dead.. anyways it ran for me for about a block then died as i was shifting gears the bike would accelerate slowly and just didnt seem to want to open the throttle open all the way it would bog down and it would just go the pace the gears took it basically i replaced the spark plug connector and coil because i noticed it was broken and taped bad, bike started again reved really high and then died now when i start it it will not rev because the rev is so high... possibly carb addjustments? kust bought battery charging now to test it out sorry for the story lol im stumped?
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03-10-2012, 10:47 AM	#3
jaloos Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Trail - B.C. - Canada Posts: 158	Some of these carbs have a stopper built into the bowl that will allow the float to only drop a certain amount thus not letting gas flow into the carb fast enough. On all my gio four strokes I remove this tab for faster fuel delivery. Gio bikes are also notorious for having crappy fuel lines and filters. The fuel lines dry up and start to flake off rubber and will mess with the jets and float valve. I would replace all my lines with good quality lines and add a new filter like the this one Sounds to me like your running way lean. I would check all your jets and evap tubes in the carb and look for leaks in your intake manifold. __________________ I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left. Pocket Bike Canada is a deceitful retailer. Stay away from them.
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03-10-2012, 02:07 PM	#4
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Welcome blaise! I agree with MICRider; the best solution is a new Mikuni. With a stock muffler and a pod filter, you'll run well with a 110 main and a 25 slow jet. Here's one with free shipping to your door: Carburetor Carb ATV Dirt Bike Quad Honda MIKUNI 30mm __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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03-11-2012, 12:20 AM	#6
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Let's work on the solenoid issue, and work our way to the carb. Please describe how you're jumping the solenoid. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

03-11-2012, 01:03 AM	#8
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I completely agree with new fuel lines and a 30mm Mikuni. The other primary priorities are an inline valve and a quality inline filter. I've had my entire harness apart chasing an electrical problem, and it turned out to be a broken key switch. :oops: I plugged in a replacement switch that had the same connector and wire colours, but the pinout was different. D'ohh! The by-product was that I learned about the harness and how it is configured. The power wire from the starter button travels through both brake safety switches, and they're in parallel. IOW, it doesn't matter which brake you apply; the solenoid will still engage. Knowing that, make sure the fuse is good, turn the key on and have a helper apply the front brake. Unplug the small gauge wire connector from the solenoid and test it with a test light while pressing the starter button. If you don't have a test light, you should get one; they're cheap at Princess Auto. If the light doesn't come on, have your helper apply the rear brake and repeat the test. If you still don't get light, test both switches with a multimeter (another must have). If you do get light but the solenoid will not engage, the solenoid is suspect. You can confirm by applying 12 volts directly to the small gauge wire connector at the solenoid. Make sense? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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03-10-2012, 07:16 AM	#2
MICRider Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 3,274	My Beast ran super crappy with the stock carb and would often bog and die when giving it gas. I fiddled with it tons and tried every adjustment I could think of but never could get it to run right. I ended up picking up one of the performance Mikuni carbs for it. Night and day difference!
	0

03-10-2012, 05:27 PM	#5
blaise Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 8	ok so i charged the battery overnight, when i started working on it today the bike would not turn over.. still wont through the start have to jump silenoid to start it.. i think the ignition is screwed a ground wire broke out .. but anyways i took the carb apart and noticed it was dirty so when i put it back on the bike would not start at first... now when i hold the choke to the open pisiton(not manual choke) the bike will run and rev up perfectly fine untill i let go of the choke then it boggs out....... deffinitly carb issues? should i replace it for sure just dont want to waste money i dont have.. and thankyou everyone for the quick and helpfull reply
	0

03-11-2012, 12:34 AM	#7
blaise Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 8	well i am not exactly jumping the silenoid i connect the silenoids two prongs together by screw driver. it does start the bike, when i engage clutch to start the bike the button does not even make a click.... i noticed a ground wire was ripped out of the connector, so i reconnected it into the connector but electrice start will not work, was working when i was boosting the dead battery by a started car... only the car being started would allow the electic start to work, now i have a new battery full charge so i did not hook it up to car because it shouldnt be nessesary?? this bike is confusing me but i really like the little beast work in progress.. thankyou muchly weldangrid for sharing some experience... considering changing filter and lines.. cleaning out gas tank.. and replaceing the factory carb with a minuki 35mm?
	0

03-11-2012, 02:58 PM	#9
blaise Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 8	yesi understand... one problem the bike currently is missing one brake drum i am trying to get it to run smoothly before i get into the braking/suspension i tried applying the back breaks and still got nothing, im thinking the connector that plugs into the ignition connector is toast the ground wire was soldered into the connector itself... started bike again today by connecting the two silenoid prongs together it now runs without the choke being applied to it but its only good for about 1/8 throttle then it start bogging.. again replacing the carb and such.. should i try finding a new connector, they have the wiring harness pretty beat up but im going to repair it wire for wire.. any suggestions? --this site amazes me how much you know about these bikes lol great help!!!
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03-11-2012, 03:02 PM	#10
blaise Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 8	but also before the battery was swapped the bike would start up when jumped by a car.. using the ignition
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03-11-2012, 04:26 PM	#11
midlifekrisiz Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Chilliwack, B.C., Canada eh Posts: 1,393	i say it's the battery....we had the same type of problem with one of ours .... new battery and a tender solved the problem __________________ I could be wrong......it has been known to happen<div><br /></div><div>core directive 172: No member of the core shall report for duty wearing a ginger toupee</div>
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03-11-2012, 04:48 PM	#12
blaise Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 8	but i took out the old battery, bought a brand new one, charged it up and the ignition just didnt work i will post, picture of this messy wiring harness tonight, i have a feeling it is the connector, not to worried about starting it right now the silenoid starts it with one wind of the starter, but its the accel and such witch i am replacing the entire fuel system!! i hope my battery is okay it cost 64$ ... still holds a charge of 12.44 without recharging it at all
	0

03-11-2012, 04:57 PM	#13
MICRider Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 3,274	Actually I think a fully charged 12 volt battery is around 14 or so volts? I could be wrong though (Lol, and I often am!)
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03-11-2012, 07:36 PM	#14
blaise Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 8	no a 12 volt battery is called 12 volt for a reason .. you are right ina way it is never dead on, usually 12.30-12.75ish for a full charge i have the book to the battery right next to me, also this battery has double the cca as the old one and still on a fully charge no ignition...
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03-11-2012, 07:41 PM	#15
MICRider Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Posts: 3,274	Your right, I think I was thinking of the charging voltage of my bike... When I throw a voltmeter on it and rev the bike up a bit it goes to 14 or so. :oops:
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