Air Filter - Recommend Changes - Page 2

TurboT · 08-19-2009, 02:42 AM

Lookin sharp chap!

Weldangrind · 08-19-2009, 02:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waynev

Did you oil the filter?, as all K&N air filters must be oiled for best results,i used to run K&N's on my microsprint and it was wash and oil every week.

I wash our Uni filters with Castrol Super Clean and then oil with Maxima spray oil. The Uni filters are really good, so I usually clean them every second ride.

jimk · 08-19-2009, 10:39 AM

Here is my attempt at some pictures of the air breather showing it at the front of the engine. Can anyone tell me if this looks to be on backwards of if it is alright?

Weldangrind · 08-19-2009, 12:08 PM

I would spin it around. The fuel bowl angle looks unworkable in that position. If you can't get the existing filter to fit after spinning the carb and intake, you could always switch to a Uni pod for around $20.00.

TurboT · 08-19-2009, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I would spin it around. The fuel bowl angle looks unworkable in that position. If you can't get the existing filter to fit after spinning the carb and intake, you could always switch to a Uni pod for around $20.00.

I concur. It looks wrong on many counts. It should be the other way, with the air filter pointing up. Not to mention it's pinching that wire onto the head, quick way to melt them.

jimk · 08-19-2009, 04:18 PM

Curious. Can I simply unbolt the carb intake and just spin it around? Should I replace the gasket if I do that, or is it just a matter of unbolting it and spinning it around? It does look as if there would be a lot more room for the air breather if I spin the carb and intake assembly 180 deg.

I'm just trying to determine if this is something I should take on myself or bite the bullet and take it to a small engine shop.

I've done minor repairs on bikes before, like brake replacements and changing fluids, etc., but not much at all with the engine.

TurboT · 08-19-2009, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimk

Curious. Can I simply unbolt the carb intake and just spin it around? Should I replace the gasket if I do that, or is it just a matter of unbolting it and spinning it around? It does look as if there would be a lot more room for the air breather if I spin the carb and intake assembly 180 deg.

I'm just trying to determine if this is something I should take on myself or bite the bullet and take it to a small engine shop.

I've done minor repairs on bikes before, like brake replacements and changing fluids, etc., but not much at all with the engine.

I think since it's not been run, (I assume) you should be able to flip it without changing the gasket. Just be careful you don't rip it removing it. If you do think the gasket is damaged, you should be able to find one as these engines are pretty much Honda 50,70 clones.

It'll more than likely just pop off easily...but I understand your fear, nothing ever really goes according to plan!

Weldangrind · 08-19-2009, 11:08 PM

Ditto TurboT.

I'll add that you'll make things easier for yourself if you remove the carb slider first. Just unscrew the top of the carb, and the slider and spring assembly will slide right out (and stay assembled).

When you're ready to put the slider back in, be sure to allow the cable to go where it wants. You might find a totally different route than the way it was. Making sure that the cable isn't twisted (or worse, kinked), will help make the throttle operate smoothly.

When you place the slider back in the top of the carb, be sure to note that one side has a small ramp at the bottom, and the other side has a slot that runs the length of the slider. Ensure that the slot mates with the bump inside the carb so that it will not be stuck wide open. Test the throttle several times before starting the engine, to make sure that it's springing back properly.

It'll all make perfect sense when you take it apart. Work very slowly as you screw the top of the carb back in. It will cross-thread if you're rough with it.

TurboT · 08-19-2009, 11:16 PM

Yes.. and Ditto to W&G on the top cap. Thing can be a bit irritating to get back on with that spring and delicate threads.

..and let us know how you make out, we're always here to help!

Weldangrind · 08-20-2009, 02:36 AM

I was trying to be kind and not mention you in the carb cap comment, TurboT!

TurboT · 08-20-2009, 02:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I was trying to be kind and not mention you in the carb cap comment, TurboT!

Hahaha..

Well, you know me and those top caps/sliders.. they love me. It's the gigantic hands versus miniture motor parts... Happy to report the latest gio hasn't had me ham handing the carb at all.

Weldangrind · 08-20-2009, 02:57 AM

I thought it was all the thumbs...

So your latest Gio ran well out of the box?

TurboT · 08-20-2009, 03:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I thought it was all the thumbs...

So your latest Gio ran well out of the box?

The one I sent you a vid of was running like that without any carb adjustments. Gas on, started and ran like that. Might be a 'tad' rich, but I don't find the mixture screw really does much on these anyhow.

My other 110cc mini beast was like that too.

Weldangrind · 08-20-2009, 03:25 AM

The mixture screw is only for idle and "tip in". You need to raise the clip if it's rich.

TurboT · 08-20-2009, 03:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

The mixture screw is only for idle and "tip in". You need to raise the clip if it's rich.

Duh.. where's the 'clip' ... inside?

08-19-2009, 10:39 AM	#18
jimk Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Moncton, NB, Canada Posts: 4	Some pics of the air breather Here is my attempt at some pictures of the air breather showing it at the front of the engine. Can anyone tell me if this looks to be on backwards of if it is alright?
	0

08-19-2009, 12:08 PM	#19
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I would spin it around. The fuel bowl angle looks unworkable in that position. If you can't get the existing filter to fit after spinning the carb and intake, you could always switch to a Uni pod for around $20.00. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-19-2009, 04:18 PM	#21
jimk Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Moncton, NB, Canada Posts: 4	Advice on spinning the intake Curious. Can I simply unbolt the carb intake and just spin it around? Should I replace the gasket if I do that, or is it just a matter of unbolting it and spinning it around? It does look as if there would be a lot more room for the air breather if I spin the carb and intake assembly 180 deg. I'm just trying to determine if this is something I should take on myself or bite the bullet and take it to a small engine shop. I've done minor repairs on bikes before, like brake replacements and changing fluids, etc., but not much at all with the engine.
	0

08-19-2009, 11:08 PM	#23
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Ditto TurboT. I'll add that you'll make things easier for yourself if you remove the carb slider first. Just unscrew the top of the carb, and the slider and spring assembly will slide right out (and stay assembled). When you're ready to put the slider back in, be sure to allow the cable to go where it wants. You might find a totally different route than the way it was. Making sure that the cable isn't twisted (or worse, kinked), will help make the throttle operate smoothly. When you place the slider back in the top of the carb, be sure to note that one side has a small ramp at the bottom, and the other side has a slot that runs the length of the slider. Ensure that the slot mates with the bump inside the carb so that it will not be stuck wide open. Test the throttle several times before starting the engine, to make sure that it's springing back properly. It'll all make perfect sense when you take it apart. Work very slowly as you screw the top of the carb back in. It will cross-thread if you're rough with it. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-20-2009, 02:36 AM	#25
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I was trying to be kind and not mention you in the carb cap comment, TurboT! __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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08-19-2009, 02:42 AM	#16
TurboT Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada Posts: 2,185	Lookin sharp chap!
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08-19-2009, 11:16 PM	#24
TurboT Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada Posts: 2,185	Yes.. and Ditto to W&G on the top cap. Thing can be a bit irritating to get back on with that spring and delicate threads. ..and let us know how you make out, we're always here to help!
	0

08-20-2009, 02:57 AM	#27
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I thought it was all the thumbs... So your latest Gio ran well out of the box? __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

08-20-2009, 03:25 AM	#29
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	The mixture screw is only for idle and "tip in". You need to raise the clip if it's rich. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0