New Zongshen RX3 (ZS250GY-3) Dual Sport

[woodlandsprite]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

A swap to LED bulbs solved that, but the light is a little blue for Mrs. Weldangrind's liking. I'm going to search for a brighter LED.

I bought some LEDs to replace the overhead recessed floods in my house - initially bought the daytime white and found them to be super harsh but super bright - have since bought "soft white" LEDs and they are much nicer and less harsh.

[ripcuda]

Do the modern LED lights used for turn signal lamps cause fast blinking anymore? I remember having to put resistors in the circuit to normalize the flashing rate.

Cheers!

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by ripcuda

Do the modern LED lights used for turn signal lamps cause fast blinking anymore? I remember having to put resistors in the circuit to normalize the flashing rate.

Cheers!

Yes, or no blinking. Resistors aren't the answer, because you're mimicking the current draw of a standard incandescent bulb, so there is no power savings. Many of us have installed LED lights to conserve power and be kind to the little charging system.

The answer is an LED-specific flasher. They're cheap and easy to find. I think Spud buys his from https://www.superbrightleds.com/ , but I bought mine from www.bikebandit.com

[ripcuda]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Yes, or no blinking. Resistors aren't the answer, because you're mimicking the current draw of a standard incandescent bulb, so there is no power savings. Many of us have installed LED lights to conserve power and be kind to the little charging system.

The answer is an LED-specific flasher. They're cheap and easy to find. I think Spud buys his from https://www.superbrightleds.com/ , but I bought mine from www.bikebandit.com

Ah... sweet. Much better way to do it.

Cheers!

[oldqwerty]

Originally Posted by ripcuda

Do the modern LED lights used for turn signal lamps cause fast blinking anymore? I remember having to put resistors in the circuit to normalize the flashing rate.

Cheers!

I've never seen LEDs cause a faster flash rate, but I don't drive snazzy new vehicles with automatic butt wipers and such and accelerated flash rate can be a signal to tell clueless morons who don't pretrip that they have a turn light not working. Such idiot-proofing feature could easily use current flow anomalies to determine if all the lights are working, LEDs lower the current, and the accelerated flash feature activates because the stooped-proofing device thinks a bulb isn't working.

Usually, LEDs prevent flashing. LEDs use less electricity than incandescents and usually do not draw enough juice to make enough heat to activate the thermal device in a conventional (cheap) flasher. LED sellers made a LOT more money selling and installing resistors wired parallel to the LED lamps to cancel out the energy saving benefits of LEDs (they didn't tell you that, did they?) so the original flashers would get hot enough to flash. This is a sorry, complicated, expensive solution to a very simple problem.

A better solution is to pull the flasher from the vehicle, walk into any auto parts store, hand the counterperson the flasher, and ask for an electronic version of the same flasher because your LEDs messed up the flash rate. The electronic flashers are not load sensitive and just about always work perfectly no matter what combination of bulbs you have. $12, 5 minute fix, without chopping up your OEM wires.

If your bubble-baby turn signal out indicator is still causing a high flash rate, a single resistor in the wire between the flasher and electronic module that contains the indicator out sensor wizardry will cure the problem. A careful look at a schematic will reveal which wire needs the resistor.

I'll leave the calculations of the necessary amperage capacity and resistance value up to you as the concept is too advanced for this medium of communication.

[Weldangrind]

That sounds like a terrific adventure!

[SpudRider]

I cut the end from the left handgrip of my RX3 to determine the diameter of the hole inside the handlebars. The hole is only 1/2-inch in diameter, and the Tusk D-Flex Handguards require a hole at least 5/8-inch in diameter. Therefore, the Tusk D-Flex handguards will not fit the stock handlebars of the RX3.

However, the D-Flex Handguards will certainly fit the Tusk Chub (1-1/8 inch) handlebars, which only cost $39.99. I mounted Tusk aluminum handlebars on my Honda XR650L, and they very nice. The Tusk Chub handlebars are black.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...%20tusk%20t-10

[rjmorel]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

I cut the end from the left handgrip of my RX3 to determine the diameter of the hole inside the handlebars. The hole is only 1/2-inch in diameter, and the Tusk D-Flex Handguards require a hole at least 5/8-inch in diameter. Therefore, the Tusk D-Flex handguards will not fit the stock handlebars of the RX3.

However, the D-Flex Handguards will certainly fit the Tusk Chub (1-1/8 inch) handlebars, which only cost $39.99. I mounted Tusk aluminum handlebars on my Honda XR650L, and they very nice. The Tusk Chub handlebars are black.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...%20tusk%20t-10

Spuds, know any machinist in your area? Wouldn't take much to put the mount that goes in the 1/2" handlebar hole and turn it down in a lathe. rj

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by rjmorel

Spuds, know any machinist in your area? Wouldn't take much to put the mount that goes in the 1/2" handlebar hole and turn it down in a lathe. rj

You can enlarge the hole in the stock handlebars with a powerful drill, but I don't know if you have enough material available to reduce the diameter of the handguard mounts. Quite frankly, I would rather spend $40 and get a pair of black, Tusk Chub (1-1/8") handlebars.

[Veteran]

Maybe someone who knows Zongshen motors can school me here;
The RX3's we're getting have the Fuel Injected ZS177MM water cooled, 4 valve engine;

- Are all ZS 177MM engines basically the same?
- Is the ZS177MM also called the NC250?
- Do all ZS177MM water cooled engine made for all other applications have 4 valves or are some 2 valve engines? (I know we aren't getting 2 valve engines in our new bikes, so don't reply saying anything to that effect)

Thanks
Evan

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Veteran

Maybe someone who knows Zongshen motors can school me here;
The RX3's we're getting have the Fuel Injected ZS177MM water cooled, 4 valve engine;

- Are all ZS 177MM engines basically the same?...

Yes.

Originally Posted by Veteran

... - Is the ZS177MM also called the NC250?...

Yes.

Originally Posted by Veteran

... - Do all ZS177MM water cooled engine made for all other applications have 4 valves or are some 2 valve engines? (I know we aren't getting 2 valve engines in our new bikes, so don't reply saying anything to that effect)

Thanks
Evan

Yes, every ZS177MM/NC250 engine has 2 intake valves, and 2 exhaust valves.

[Veteran]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Yes.



Yes.



Yes, every ZS177MM/NC250 engine has 2 intake valves, and 2 exhaust valves.

Thanks Spud.

[pete]

So with the limited miles you have put on the bike...
hows the vibration if any..... handle bars/foot pegs..
looks as if thats something i have to start concidering
now... As I now have carpal tunnel my XT660 gives my
right hand a real hard time..goes numbe in about
30mins of riding at 100kmph... 4000rpm is a real
bad vibration zone on the XT...

[oldqwerty]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

Yes, using an air compressor, it should be easy to remove the stock grips, and install them on new handlebars. All handlebars are standardized with 7/8-inch diameter at the ends. Therefore, all levers, switchgear, et cetera, can be transferred from any set of handlebars to another set of handlebars.

Big bar handlebars (1-1/8 inch) are thicker at the center, for added strength. However, they taper to the standardized, 7/8-inch diameter at the ends.

Some big cruisers and tourers have 1-inch handlebars under the controls. Pretty much everything else in the world is 7/8.

Are the stock bars aluminum or steel? If steel, with only a 1/2 inch hole, they would be very heavy. Tough as a tank, but way heavy. If there is that much material there I'll just tap some threads and drill the guards to match. Simple solution.

If anyone is installing grip heaters, wrap the left bar with friction tape to the approximate diameter of the throttle tube on the right. Then install the heater and a right side throttle diameter handgrip on the left. Otherwise your handlebars will suck heat so hast your left hand can be cold and your right hand sweating. I know, that means buying 2 sets of grips, but you can befriend a 4-wheeler person with a gift of the two smaller grips because 4-wheelers don't have throttle tubes.

[culcune]

Originally Posted by Veteran

Maybe someone who knows Zongshen motors can school me here;
The RX3's we're getting have the Fuel Injected ZS177MM water cooled, 4 valve engine;

- Are all ZS 177MM engines basically the same?
- Is the ZS177MM also called the NC250?
- Do all ZS177MM water cooled engine made for all other applications have 4 valves or are some 2 valve engines? (I know we aren't getting 2 valve engines in our new bikes, so don't reply saying anything to that effect)

Thanks
Evan

I know Spud answered 'yes' to your questions, and there are a few bikes that have had this engine for a few years now. Here in the US, SSR Motorsports have been using the same engine for a few years now in their 250cc motocross bike http://www.ssrmotorsports.com/store/...ke/sr250s.html

The company Asiawing is the OEM for SSR's bike which is also sold into other countries under various brands. http://asiawing.com/english/index.asp

One of those obscure (at least for us) European manufacturers uses the same engine, but apparently manufactures their own bike. Someone can remind me what the brand is...

The reason I mention this is that this engine has been sorted out for a little while now, so it is not 'untested'