200TMS 200XYI Dirt Bike won't kick over and run - Page 2

Weldangrind · 06-09-2010, 01:54 AM

I agree with Katoranger. With a little guidance from the fine forum members, you'll have no trouble cleaning the carb; it'll give you some peace of mind.

Check this post for some pics, pages four and five: http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...r=asc&start=45

fatal · 06-09-2010, 10:54 AM

Thanks allen, I can already tell I been fortunate enough to get the members who are willing to help me and seem to be extremely knowledgable on this subject. It looks like I have a fair amount of reading to do so I can get familiar with the things I see on the carb. My main concern is removing something and not putting it back correctly as I understand some screws need to be placed back correctly and with the right amount of twists and turns.

I don't know exactly but there is a screw on the carb with a spring, from what I gather is to be the "idle screw" so I'm not exactly sure which is the best position for this screw should it be all the way in and only turned out 1 1/2 turns or should it be out further?

When I got the bike it was out far but I have played with it since then and I don't know which is the correct placement. I have read 1 1/2 turns from fully in but I couldn't really confirm if that was true for all dirt bikes idle screw on the carb.

Thanks again guys, I might see if I can get her started today if priorites don't get in between.

fatal · 06-09-2010, 11:05 AM

Spud I seem to have missed your post. Thanks for the kind feedback and I'll be sure to keep you guys informed about the progress.

Weldangrind · 06-09-2010, 11:37 AM

The only screw that has a specific setting is the air / fuel screw, and it's probably located under the carb, next to the fuel bowl. You don't need to disturb it, but we can guide you towards optimizing it when you're ready.

The idle screw can be set wherever you wish, because it is literally just lifting the slider a little, just as if you were holding the throttle open a little. It will all become very clear to you once you dismantle the carb. You don't need to move the idle screw to take the carb apart (it's the screw with a spring around it).

That's it. There are no other external adjustments.

fatal · 06-09-2010, 08:03 PM

Well I couldn't work on the bike today because it's been raining all day and hasn't stopped. The shed that holds the bike is so small there isn't room to work in comfort so I'll be replacing the spark plug tomorrow morning and will try to fire her up!

I'll let you guys know if she budges

Good advice Weldangrind, I'll wait for the right time to fiddle with that screw.

fatal · 06-10-2010, 10:37 AM

WOOT! fresh gas, fresh oil, and new spark plug she FIRED on the first KICK!!

You guys ROCK! Thanks for all your help

fatal · 06-10-2010, 11:13 AM

I am very pleased that the bike starts on the first kick. It never did that before I wonder if the plug has always been bad. It runs great!

How long does the carb usually last on these bikes? Does it all depend on how you take care of the carb with cleaning every so often? Lets say I had to get a new one is there a really good model that would fit the bike. Currently it has a really strange carb called "sheng weng" it says made in japan. I read that this is not a very good carb so lets say If I had to replace this carb someday or wanted to put a better carb which one would you guys recommend as a replacment that out performs the current carb.

Weldangrind · 06-10-2010, 11:37 AM

A 30mm Mikuni is a decent choice. It is virtually identical in design to the carb you have now, but the machining and casting seems to be just a bit better. Check eBay.

Aside from erosion of brass jets over time (a long time), there isn't much that can go wrong with these primitive carbs.

Congrats on getting the bike to run.

fatal · 06-10-2010, 11:47 AM

Thanks bud, I appreciate all your help. You truly know your stuff and I can't thank you enough for all the detailed information. I will most likely surface up again in the future

Cal25 · 06-10-2010, 12:57 PM

Mix some fuel stabilizer with the gas if you are going to let it set for any time and it wont gum up the carb and you wont need to drain and replace the fuel.
Thanks for letting us know the outcome.

SpudRider · 06-10-2010, 01:41 PM

I'm glad you solved your problem!

If you want to avoid gumming up your carburetor, you can follow several guidelines.

Every time you are done riding, put the bike in neutral, and dismount with the engine running. Then turn off the fuel petcock, and allow the motor to run until it uses all the gas in the carburetor float bowl.

In addition, when the bike is going to sit idle for a month or longer, drain the carburetor float bowl, and add Stabil to the gasoline tank as Cal suggested.

Spud

fatal · 06-10-2010, 02:24 PM

Great advice! I will have to start doing this because I never knew this trick. Thanks !

Weldangrind · 06-10-2010, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatal

Thanks bud, I appreciate all your help. You truly know your stuff and I can't thank you enough for all the detailed information. I will most likely surface up again in the future

You're welcome. I hope that you'll stick around. We're always looking to shoot the breeze with motorcycle fans.

katoranger · 06-10-2010, 11:08 PM

Just make sure it ride so that the gas never gets old.

SpudRider · 06-10-2010, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fatal

Great advice! I will have to start doing this because I never knew this trick. Thanks !

You're welcome.

Spud

06-09-2010, 01:54 AM	#16
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	I agree with Katoranger. With a little guidance from the fine forum members, you'll have no trouble cleaning the carb; it'll give you some peace of mind. Check this post for some pics, pages four and five: http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...r=asc&start=45 __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

06-09-2010, 11:37 AM	#19
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	The only screw that has a specific setting is the air / fuel screw, and it's probably located under the carb, next to the fuel bowl. You don't need to disturb it, but we can guide you towards optimizing it when you're ready. The idle screw can be set wherever you wish, because it is literally just lifting the slider a little, just as if you were holding the throttle open a little. It will all become very clear to you once you dismantle the carb. You don't need to move the idle screw to take the carb apart (it's the screw with a spring around it). That's it. There are no other external adjustments. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

06-10-2010, 11:37 AM	#23
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	A 30mm Mikuni is a decent choice. It is virtually identical in design to the carb you have now, but the machining and casting seems to be just a bit better. Check eBay. Aside from erosion of brass jets over time (a long time), there isn't much that can go wrong with these primitive carbs. Congrats on getting the bike to run. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

06-10-2010, 01:41 PM	#26
SpudRider Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Idaho Posts: 25,054	I'm glad you solved your problem! If you want to avoid gumming up your carburetor, you can follow several guidelines. Every time you are done riding, put the bike in neutral, and dismount with the engine running. Then turn off the fuel petcock, and allow the motor to run until it uses all the gas in the carburetor float bowl. In addition, when the bike is going to sit idle for a month or longer, drain the carburetor float bowl, and add Stabil to the gasoline tank as Cal suggested. Spud __________________ Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894
	0

06-10-2010, 11:08 PM	#29
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Just make sure it ride so that the gas never gets old. __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

06-09-2010, 10:54 AM	#17
fatal Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 24	Thanks allen, I can already tell I been fortunate enough to get the members who are willing to help me and seem to be extremely knowledgable on this subject. It looks like I have a fair amount of reading to do so I can get familiar with the things I see on the carb. My main concern is removing something and not putting it back correctly as I understand some screws need to be placed back correctly and with the right amount of twists and turns. I don't know exactly but there is a screw on the carb with a spring, from what I gather is to be the "idle screw" so I'm not exactly sure which is the best position for this screw should it be all the way in and only turned out 1 1/2 turns or should it be out further? When I got the bike it was out far but I have played with it since then and I don't know which is the correct placement. I have read 1 1/2 turns from fully in but I couldn't really confirm if that was true for all dirt bikes idle screw on the carb. Thanks again guys, I might see if I can get her started today if priorites don't get in between.
	0

06-09-2010, 11:05 AM	#18
fatal Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 24	Spud I seem to have missed your post. Thanks for the kind feedback and I'll be sure to keep you guys informed about the progress.
	0

06-09-2010, 08:03 PM	#20
fatal Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 24	Well I couldn't work on the bike today because it's been raining all day and hasn't stopped. The shed that holds the bike is so small there isn't room to work in comfort so I'll be replacing the spark plug tomorrow morning and will try to fire her up! I'll let you guys know if she budges Good advice Weldangrind, I'll wait for the right time to fiddle with that screw.
	0

06-10-2010, 10:37 AM	#21
fatal Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 24	WOOT! fresh gas, fresh oil, and new spark plug she FIRED on the first KICK!! You guys ROCK! Thanks for all your help
	0

06-10-2010, 11:13 AM	#22
fatal Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 24	I am very pleased that the bike starts on the first kick. It never did that before I wonder if the plug has always been bad. It runs great! How long does the carb usually last on these bikes? Does it all depend on how you take care of the carb with cleaning every so often? Lets say I had to get a new one is there a really good model that would fit the bike. Currently it has a really strange carb called "sheng weng" it says made in japan. I read that this is not a very good carb so lets say If I had to replace this carb someday or wanted to put a better carb which one would you guys recommend as a replacment that out performs the current carb.
	0

06-10-2010, 11:47 AM	#24
fatal Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 24	Thanks bud, I appreciate all your help. You truly know your stuff and I can't thank you enough for all the detailed information. I will most likely surface up again in the future
	0

06-10-2010, 12:57 PM	#25
Cal25 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Terrell and Grapevine Tx. Posts: 1,585	Mix some fuel stabilizer with the gas if you are going to let it set for any time and it wont gum up the carb and you wont need to drain and replace the fuel. Thanks for letting us know the outcome.
	0

06-10-2010, 02:24 PM	#27
fatal Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 24	Great advice! I will have to start doing this because I never knew this trick. Thanks !
	0