Tired of rear sprocket wobble

chriseck · 05-13-2009, 08:46 PM

I deceided to do this mod on my rear sprocket attachment. The C-clip ring was showing wear along with the gruve it sits in therefore allowing the rear sprocket to have alot of excess play. Instead of shiming the clip I decieded to drill completly thru to the back of the hub. I installed 4-5/16 grade 5 bolts, 3 inches in length thru the hub assembly. I left the rubber stud inserts in place. I shimmed the back of the sprocket with two flat washer for each bolt to insure it would sit flush on the hub. I then bolted the sprocket on with the nuts and lock washers facing out. I reinstalled the orgional C-clip sprocket holder ring. I then mixed up 4 packages Of 4 minute JB-weld and poured it into the bolt heads in the back of the hub below the bottom edge for the brake shoe. This would restrengthen any weakness caused by drilling that removed material for the center hub support.Kinda like pinning the heads on a race car. With the new wheel bearings and this mod Im good to go. I will keep an eye on things but Im sure this mod is an upgrade to what it was.

Ma77 · 05-14-2009, 02:14 PM

I was trying to think of a way to do this on my bike as well.....it was not only the slop that was annoying but also the cush drive (those rubbers) and it sounds as tho you have solved both problems.

do you have any pics of it and hows it riding?

chriseck · 05-17-2009, 08:58 AM

Rode about 275mi with this mod over the past two days.Im very pleased with the results. Removed the rear wheel twice during that time to check how the inner hub assembly looked along with the JB-weld on the bolts. Everything looked ok. At a initial 50mi check of things , the nuts that hold the sprocket on became loose. I had two that were loose and one that was missing. Even with lock washers they came loose. I reinstalled all four nuts with thread locker this time along with the lock washers. That seams to have solved a minor problem. I wish I could do pics so you' all could see what this looks like. The bike ran perfect which kept a smile on my face.

TeamCheap · 05-17-2009, 11:28 AM

For applications where heat and extreme vibrations are likely to occur I use the steel lock nuts and they seem to work very well.

The nylon lock nuts are good but get soft with a bit of heat on them and tend to loose their bit after being remove and installed several times.

Lock washers are ok but they have downsides ecspecially if used on softer metals in opinion.

Ma77 · 06-01-2009, 03:53 PM

there have been a few new topics about the sprocket wobble now so just bumping this and hinting at sticky if you do a few pics during your next check up...im gonna give it a go next time i have to sort my bike out (wont be long as its first MOT is due soon)

knothead · 06-01-2009, 08:26 PM

I don't know, but I have the suspicion that your mod might come back to bite you in the arse...

The way I understand, you drilled all the way through the hub, inserted bolts through the hub and sprocket and then epoxied the bolt heads, but the bolts run through the rubber cushions.

I would be afraid that drilling through would weaken the hub too much for one thing (these bikes seem to have really brittle hubs anyway). If the bike has a rear drum I would also worry about bits of epoxy fouling the rear brake... if I understand they way you've done this, the epoxy will fail from the bolts in the rubber sleeves shifting due to the load on the sprocket... JB is good stuff, but the length of the bolts will act as a lever to multiply the torque from the sprocket (bad for the hub too!). Once the rubbers wear and allow some slop to enter the system something will give sooner or later.

You might want to keep an eye on things for a while (pull the wheel at least weekly) and inspect the hub for cracks. It would suck if the hub busted going down the road. It would suck X2 if someone followed your advice and got hurt or killed.

This is just me 2 cents worth, but I think it's a really bad idea.

katoranger · 06-01-2009, 10:52 PM

Also the rubber grommets are available through honda for cheap. I believe the little bit of slop may have been done for a reason.

Mine has been alittle loose for 10,000 miles now.

Allen

TheRealWorld · 06-02-2009, 12:24 AM

If I understand the problem, In the future I would just shim the 4 pin/bolts with a thin washer so the sprocket was held out tight to the big C clip.

undertulsa · 06-03-2009, 12:24 AM

Ok i love your post but for the stupid people you left us in the dust.

any chance get a digi pic of that mod you skillfully did?

Thx

TheRealWorld · 06-03-2009, 10:48 PM

I am not good with pictures, so an explanation will have to do.

I went to the farm store and bought a stock sprocket with a 5/8 pitch. I bored out the center hole to the proper size and turned the face of the sprocket be cause the gear was to thick. Then I placed the old gear on the new gear, lining up the main center hole. At that point I marked the 4 bolt holes, determined the center of each one, made a slight scribe line while it was in the lathe, took it out, center punched each hole on the scribe line, drilled a pilot hole, then drilled it to the right size hole.

I did have to radius the teeth a bit on the side I removed the thickness from. The gear was surface hardened at and near the teeth. The rest of the metal was soft.

TheRealWorld · 06-03-2009, 10:57 PM

Sorry, Sorry, I gave the wrong answer to the last question.

The four bolts that hold the sprocket on, simply fit into holes on the hub. If there is play between the sprocket and the big C clip then some thin washers on the back side of the pin/bolts will hold the sprocket tight against the big C clip.

If this is confusing, take it apart and you will understand what I mean. It may be hard to find washers the right thickness , but be creative.

05-13-2009, 08:46 PM	#1
chriseck Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Palm Harbor Fl. Posts: 52	Tired of rear sprocket wobble I deceided to do this mod on my rear sprocket attachment. The C-clip ring was showing wear along with the gruve it sits in therefore allowing the rear sprocket to have alot of excess play. Instead of shiming the clip I decieded to drill completly thru to the back of the hub. I installed 4-5/16 grade 5 bolts, 3 inches in length thru the hub assembly. I left the rubber stud inserts in place. I shimmed the back of the sprocket with two flat washer for each bolt to insure it would sit flush on the hub. I then bolted the sprocket on with the nuts and lock washers facing out. I reinstalled the orgional C-clip sprocket holder ring. I then mixed up 4 packages Of 4 minute JB-weld and poured it into the bolt heads in the back of the hub below the bottom edge for the brake shoe. This would restrengthen any weakness caused by drilling that removed material for the center hub support.Kinda like pinning the heads on a race car. With the new wheel bearings and this mod Im good to go. I will keep an eye on things but Im sure this mod is an upgrade to what it was.
	0

06-01-2009, 10:52 PM	#7
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Also the rubber grommets are available through honda for cheap. I believe the little bit of slop may have been done for a reason. Mine has been alittle loose for 10,000 miles now. Allen __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

06-03-2009, 12:24 AM	#9
undertulsa Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 219	Computer Guru Ok i love your post but for the stupid people you left us in the dust. any chance get a digi pic of that mod you skillfully did? Thx
	0

05-14-2009, 02:14 PM	#2
Ma77 Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 53	I was trying to think of a way to do this on my bike as well.....it was not only the slop that was annoying but also the cush drive (those rubbers) and it sounds as tho you have solved both problems. do you have any pics of it and hows it riding?
	0

05-17-2009, 08:58 AM	#3
chriseck Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Palm Harbor Fl. Posts: 52	Rode about 275mi with this mod over the past two days.Im very pleased with the results. Removed the rear wheel twice during that time to check how the inner hub assembly looked along with the JB-weld on the bolts. Everything looked ok. At a initial 50mi check of things , the nuts that hold the sprocket on became loose. I had two that were loose and one that was missing. Even with lock washers they came loose. I reinstalled all four nuts with thread locker this time along with the lock washers. That seams to have solved a minor problem. I wish I could do pics so you' all could see what this looks like. The bike ran perfect which kept a smile on my face.
	0

05-17-2009, 11:28 AM	#4
TeamCheap Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: directly under the earths sun............NOW Posts: 2,302	For applications where heat and extreme vibrations are likely to occur I use the steel lock nuts and they seem to work very well. The nylon lock nuts are good but get soft with a bit of heat on them and tend to loose their bit after being remove and installed several times. Lock washers are ok but they have downsides ecspecially if used on softer metals in opinion.
	0

06-01-2009, 03:53 PM	#5
Ma77 Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 53	there have been a few new topics about the sprocket wobble now so just bumping this and hinting at sticky if you do a few pics during your next check up...im gonna give it a go next time i have to sort my bike out (wont be long as its first MOT is due soon)
	0

06-01-2009, 08:26 PM	#6
knothead Join Date: May 2007 Location: In the land of the busted up ricebowl Posts: 815	I don't know, but I have the suspicion that your mod might come back to bite you in the arse... The way I understand, you drilled all the way through the hub, inserted bolts through the hub and sprocket and then epoxied the bolt heads, but the bolts run through the rubber cushions. I would be afraid that drilling through would weaken the hub too much for one thing (these bikes seem to have really brittle hubs anyway). If the bike has a rear drum I would also worry about bits of epoxy fouling the rear brake... if I understand they way you've done this, the epoxy will fail from the bolts in the rubber sleeves shifting due to the load on the sprocket... JB is good stuff, but the length of the bolts will act as a lever to multiply the torque from the sprocket (bad for the hub too!). Once the rubbers wear and allow some slop to enter the system something will give sooner or later. You might want to keep an eye on things for a while (pull the wheel at least weekly) and inspect the hub for cracks. It would suck if the hub busted going down the road. It would suck X2 if someone followed your advice and got hurt or killed. This is just me 2 cents worth, but I think it's a really bad idea.
	0

06-02-2009, 12:24 AM	#8
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	If I understand the problem, In the future I would just shim the 4 pin/bolts with a thin washer so the sprocket was held out tight to the big C clip.
	0

06-03-2009, 10:48 PM	#10
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	I am not good with pictures, so an explanation will have to do. I went to the farm store and bought a stock sprocket with a 5/8 pitch. I bored out the center hole to the proper size and turned the face of the sprocket be cause the gear was to thick. Then I placed the old gear on the new gear, lining up the main center hole. At that point I marked the 4 bolt holes, determined the center of each one, made a slight scribe line while it was in the lathe, took it out, center punched each hole on the scribe line, drilled a pilot hole, then drilled it to the right size hole. I did have to radius the teeth a bit on the side I removed the thickness from. The gear was surface hardened at and near the teeth. The rest of the metal was soft.
	0

06-03-2009, 10:57 PM	#11
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	Sorry, Sorry, I gave the wrong answer to the last question. The four bolts that hold the sprocket on, simply fit into holes on the hub. If there is play between the sprocket and the big C clip then some thin washers on the back side of the pin/bolts will hold the sprocket tight against the big C clip. If this is confusing, take it apart and you will understand what I mean. It may be hard to find washers the right thickness , but be creative.
	0