New Vbike V4SW liquid cooled 250cc atv. [b] PIC HEAVY [/b]

[Universal_Diver]

:? I dont really understand this, but I guess i have a fuel cap issue.

Rode several times around the block tonight, and it bogged really bad when I gave it fast wide open throttle. Pulled into the driveway and it would stall. It would only start with almost full choke. I got it to steady idle with full choke, and opened the gas cap and heard the preasure vent and then it would rev fine at a fast jab of the throttle with no bog and ran great. Should this tank be vented? If the cap is supposed to vent, it doesnt.

[TheRealWorld]

Definitely needs a vent of some kind, Most have a vent, I will do some research when I get time.

[katoranger]

Your vent is clogged or not working on the cap.

What does it look like? Sometimes you can take them apart.

Allen

[daboostcreep]

Well here is the rundown on the assembly of the 2 quads I bought. One for myself, and one for my sister.

The Orange V4SW had white springs, and has a greenish motor.
The Blue V4SW had yellow springs, and has a gold motor.

So, I swapped the white springs onto the blue quad. The gold motor wasn't what I really wanted, but honestly with the rear axle and the spring perches being gold also the color scheme works.

The problems I encountered:
1. They came with gas, oil, and coolant. All of which had most likely been in the quad since the date of manufacture (tag said 12/07).....The gas was very yellow, the oil was possibly fish oil, and the coolant was brownish with white chunks floating in it. Needless to say I drained and replaced all the fluids.

2. The clutch on the blue quad wasn't working right, so after some inspection I realized there was tons (I mean tons of slack) in the cable, and that the cable on the other quad that worked perfect was nearly 4" shorter. So I need to call Tim on Monday to get a replacement clutch cable sent out.

3. One of the small coolant hoses was dripping and sliced right below the nipple, so I cut it right below that and it had enough slack to fit again. Took less than a minute.

4. One of the fuel lines was melted, or something weird right where it feeds the carb and was seeping fuel...same thing, cut that little bit off and it was good.

5. There are no directions of any kind, was missing a wheel lug/nut and had one that came with destroyed threads inside of it, and a missing foot rest bolt.

Now don't think its all negative, cause its not. The quads are very nice quality, started on the first blip of the starter button, and everything mechanically aside from the one clutch cable works perfect. The fit and finish is not perfect, but good and manageable. The appearance of the quads is very good, and overall its very simple to work on. I rode the one that is operable up and down the street a few times under load, nearly bogging it to seat the rings in 4th gear. When it gets out of the 4th gear bog rev range it really cruises at a good speed at nice low revs.

I also did purchase a set of the stud style wheel spacers everyone else seems to be running, and will put them on tomorrow. Im going to give them a shot, and see what gets destroyed. Oh and the rear sure is narrow compared to the front, hopefully the spacers solve that issue.

I promise I will take lots of pictures tomorrow to show everything I possibly can, and hopefully I'll get some video as well. If you've got a special pic request drop it on here before tomorrow AM when I go to my parents house to finish up some loose ends.

[KentuckyDonkey]

Well...Tim's gonna have to send me out a new master cylinder. I bled the crap out of the rear brakes and still nothing (Even disconnected the pedal, so that I could get full travel on the pushrod...).

That seems to be my only issue though- not bad. Have to fine tune the carb a bit too- as it pops some- but it has plenty of power! Went for an exhilerating ride today...it was GREAT! I love this bike! Very comfortable, too (I'm 6'/215 lbs.).

If I can rig my camera up, I'll make a vid tomorrow!

Still haven't figgered[sic] out the fuel shut-off. Anybody? "Up" must be on- as I left it in that position all day and never ran out of fuel. So is horizontal "off" and down "reserve? Or vice-versa? (C'mon, don't make me pull a line off to find out!!)

Oh, and I changed the oil (the oil that was in it when it arrived) as many have said that they're shipped with crap oil. Turns out, the oil that came out of it looked to be of decent quality, and was still clean- no metal in it or anything- but better to be safe than sorry- got Rotella 15W40 in 'er now!

[TheRealWorld]

I have been through that bleeding problem my self several times. I am guessing that you have a little bubble in the line at a high spot in the line. My way of solving it is one of two ways. Have two people help with one opening and closing the bleeder, while one works the lever carefully in sync with the open and closed bleeder port. The third person must keep the resivor full (no exceptions)

If you have access to a vacuum pump and an isolation chamber you can do it that way. I would be reasonably sure it is an air bubble. Good luck!

[KentuckyDonkey]

Thanks, Realworld. I doubt it's a bubble though- as the fluid comes out now with no air- and with all the fluid that's been through there....there's no way a bubble could still be in the line. I'd say if after this much bleeding, it still isn't doing a thing at the caliper.....it needs a master. (At least bleeding these things are a lot easier than bleeding cars- especially solo!)

[TheRealWorld]

I ordered my own, but it is a 300 utility. This exact machine is not listed on the Vbike site yet, but will be soon. I will tell you about it when I get it. It is a shaft drive and two wheel drive. I may be wrong but I think it will do 90 percent as much as a 4X4. I am putting this on a new thread, because it is so much different than your machines. But I wanted you to know I finally got one.

[KentuckyDonkey]

Congrats, Realworld! You're gonna love it!

For anyone who needs to know- here is the skinny on the fuel shut-off:

Lever down (arrow pointing down)= On.

Lever horizontal= Off.

Lever up (arrow pointing up)= Reserve.

[Universal_Diver]

Originally Posted by KentuckyDonkey

Congrats, Realworld! You're gonna love it!

For anyone who needs to know- here is the skinny on the fuel shut-off:

Lever down (arrow pointing down)= On.

Lever horizontal= Off.

Lever up (arrow pointing up)= Reserve.

Thanks. I was too lazy to pull the line. My plugged cap had me thinking I was going crazy with the fuel valve. :oops:


UPS was good to me today........Hand guards and a helmet cam

[KentuckyDonkey]

Any a' youse guys clock one of these v4sw's WOT in 4th gear with a GPS yet?

They zip along pretty good. Vbike site says they go 60MPH. I doubt that...but I'd be curious to know the actual speed.

Uni, if you put any more paper on that thing, it's gonna qualify to be a book mobile!

[Danthalis]

Have my v4sw coming in tomorrow, very excited. Been reading about these things for a month now and have yet to come across anyone giving them a bad review.
I had a couple of noob questions for you all, hopefully you can help. This is my first ATV ever.

Loctite
I got some 'red' loctite and wanted to know if I need to loctite every single nut and bolt I can find on the whole bike or just the bolts I will be installing?

Breakin:
Assuming I get the thing built lol can someone give me a link or tell me what's the best breakin method for the new engine. I intended to use Quaker state 10W40 for the oil, is that okay or do I need to get a motor oil specifically for 'wet clutch'?


Thanks for this post, I have read it religously today~

[Universal_Diver]

Originally Posted by Danthalis

Have my v4sw coming in tomorrow, very excited. Been reading about these things for a month now and have yet to come across anyone giving them a bad review.
I had a couple of noob questions for you all, hopefully you can help. This is my first ATV ever.

Loctite
I got some 'red' loctite and wanted to know if I need to loctite every single nut and bolt I can find on the whole bike or just the bolts I will be installing?

Breakin:
Assuming I get the thing built lol can someone give me a link or tell me what's the best breakin method for the new engine. I intended to use Quaker state 10W40 for the oil, is that okay or do I need to get a motor oil specifically for 'wet clutch'?


Thanks for this post, I have read it religously today~

Honestly call Tim. He is your best source for first hand info.

I change my oil after the first half hour of run time. Was still very clean and smelled brand new. I personally use Mobil1 10/40 syn from the first oil change. No need to debate it, thats what I have done with all my stuff and thats what I will continue to do. I also personally break everything in exactly like I plan on driving it. Its not a Ferrari, its a Chinese quad. For me, this method has never failed. I also try to use Vibra tite instead of Loctite but thats just me. Vibra tite is never hard to get off, but it wont vibrate loose. I usually replace hardware with American stuff if and when it comes loose.

I think there is a good break in procedure on the dual sport page that is a sticky.

Good luck enjoy.

[katoranger]

Congrats on the purchase.

At a minimum make sure all the bolts are tight. Use loc-tite or vibra-tite on the ones you install for sure.

I like to use shell rotella 15w40 diesel oil. It is cheap and available at walmart. The key to the oil is to make sure it is NOT energy conserving. It will have a star shape emblem on the bottle that says "energy conserving" on it if it is.

As for breakin. Ride it like you intend to ride it. Let is warm up first then maybe easy for the first 15 minutes than start riding it. That is my suggestion. Change oil often for the few few hours.

I started mine, warmed it and then road it pretty hard 10K rpm) right out of the box. 14K kilometers now and it runs great.

Allen

[KentuckyDonkey]

Danthalis,

I bought two tubes of red Loctite for putting together my v4sw...but hardly even used any out of one tube. Virtually all the nuts were self-snugging shoulder nuts- they don't seem like they will come loose; and the nuts on the front suspension parts are castelated with cotter pins.

I think the Chinese (or at least Vbike) figured out that the reason Chinese motorcycles had such a bad reputation was because of things falling apart...and they've corrected the problem.

After a few hours of high-speed riding...nothing has loosened up on mine. I was leary of loctite-ing everything...because I was afraid that if/when things need to be replaced/adjusted, the loctited nuts may be hard to remove- especially after some time/rust/gunk.

My philosophy is now: Keep check on the nuts for a while. If any loosen...I'll Loctite the ones which do.

As for oil- DO NOT use regular automotive oil- as they contain things that aren't compoatible with the clutch. There's a certain rating you need to look for- I forget exactly what the letters are...but one thing that I know for sure is O-K, is Shell Rotella 15W40. (I use that in anything I can- it doesn't have any crap in it- and is a good heavey-duty oil)

I think you're gonna love this bike!! (and be surprised at how fast it goes!)

Edit: Ditto what Allen says about break-in. I used to rebuild car engines. I am not a believer in the "very gentle" break-in. The key is always letting the engine warm up first; and take it easy for the first few minutes the first time you ride it. But I think it very important to ride at all different speeds during the break-in period, and even to ride it wide open in 4th gear (Which, unless you have a huge place to ride, is hard to do! -you'll run out of room real fast!) and even lug the engine slightly for very short periods to seat the rings.

I do believe that the rings seal much better with this kind of break-in, and ultimately, the engine performs better throughout it's life and lasts longer than one that is broken in very gently. If your rings don't get a good seal during the first few hours of riding...they never will; and oftentimes, with a very gentle break-in, they never do get that good seal.