Chain / Swing Arm rubber slider?

Jim · 09-21-2008, 10:22 PM

I'm talking about this piece here:

I'm wondering if there is a better way to set this up, my sprocket and chain are always packed with rubber from chewing through this thing... I'm thinking I need to replace it with some rollers or something, any thoughts or suggestions?

chinaguy · 09-21-2008, 10:31 PM

Yeah, mine has the same thing. I'm also interested if somebody can suggest something better.

DDG1976 · 09-21-2008, 10:39 PM

I was told to buy a cutting board from like the Dollar store, cut it to width and counter sink some holes in it for the screws. I haven't tried it yet. I have been looking at some of the roller type tension things on some of the pit bikes to try to adapt. Hopefully somebody out there has "been there done that".

Jim · 09-21-2008, 10:42 PM

I'm going to have to go there pretty soon I think because mine looks like it has almost sawed all the way through now, this picture is from quite a while back...

I was thinking the same thing, just have to watch for the top of the chain case cover on the motor if I use a springed roller like on my atv... Hopefully someone else has already got a good solution to this...

tigertamer · 09-22-2008, 05:26 AM

I have heard of the plastic cutting board retrofit too.

From what I understand of the stock rubber set-up, the chain cuts in, to the point of contacting the chain rollers. Then the wear becomes more acceptable.

Jim, is your wear to the point of roller contact? If so, does the wear seem to be the same rate?

Just curious,
Tigertamer

TeamCheap · 09-22-2008, 05:51 AM

I think the cutting board is just nylon and that is what you see on a lot of bikes/quads and other vehicles.

It should be easy enough to make one out of nylon and it would wear far better than the rubber.

Jim · 09-22-2008, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tigertamer

Jim, is your wear to the point of roller contact? If so, does the wear seem to be the same rate?

Well I'll see about when I can get a new picture, but that idea doesn't seem to work in reality in this application... My chain and sprocket are always jammed full of rubber, and I think it is almost all the way through that pad now...

Thanks also TC, I'll keep that in mind

chinariderinthesky · 09-22-2008, 07:21 AM

what if you used a hifax from a snowmobile track. they are relatively cheap and almost cut to fit. they even have counter-sunk holes in them!

elroyjetsn · 09-22-2008, 10:10 AM

I used an old Subaru timing belt. Check this thread:

http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...ht=timing+belt

3000km since, still going strong.

Jim · 09-22-2008, 02:52 PM

chinariderinthesky, I'll check that out thanks...

elroyjetson, thanks for the link, interesting, I'll look into that too.

gyjoe · 09-22-2008, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chinariderinthesky

what if you used a hifax from a snowmobile track. they are relatively cheap and almost cut to fit. they even have counter-sunk holes in them!

That's what I used; I had some pieces left over from some that had to be cut to fit a snowmobile. They work just fine, but I would think a cutting board would work just about as well.

TeamCheap · 09-22-2008, 06:44 PM

Counter sinking holes in nylon is extremely EXTREMELY easy.

All you need is a wood drill bit (SPADE DRILL BIT) that is slightly wider than the bolt you want to use.
Mark the nylon and drill your counter sink hole to the depth you want and then change to a regular drill bit and drill the hole to the diameter you need for the bolt to fit thru.

The little point on the spade bits leave you a very nice pilot hole to guide the final drill bit.

I prefer the spade bits that are square at the ends but some have little points to help drill but are not what you'd want for counter sinking.

tigertamer · 09-23-2008, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TeamCheap

Counter sinking holes in nylon is extremely EXTREMELY easy.

All you need is a wood drill bit (SPADE DRILL BIT) that is slightly wider than the bolt you want to use.
Mark the nylon and drill your counter sink hole to the depth you want and then change to a regular drill bit and drill the hole to the diameter you need for the bolt to fit thru.

The little point on the spade bits leave you a very nice pilot hole to guide the final drill bit.

I prefer the spade bits that are square at the ends but some have little points to help drill but are not what you'd want for counter sinking.

That's a good trick!

I am fortunate enough to have a set of countersink/drill bits I use for carpentry work :wink:

Jim, if you use the cutting board, I would suggest to use the old pad as a template, to mark the precise hole locations for drilling.

Good luck,
Tigertamer

katoranger · 09-23-2008, 08:32 AM

Wrap tape around the bit at the depth you want to go. Probably about a 1/4".

Allen

elroyjetsn · 09-23-2008, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim

Quote:

Originally Posted by tigertamer

Jim, is your wear to the point of roller contact? If so, does the wear seem to be the same rate?

Well I'll see about when I can get a new picture, but that idea doesn't seem to work in reality in this application... My chain and sprocket are always jammed full of rubber, and I think it is almost all the way through that pad now...

Thanks also TC, I'll keep that in mind

If the rollers look brite and shiney, they are likely making contact. But the rubber is so soft, it just compresses and lets the links keep on grinding away. Specially if you have a small rear sprocket that lets the chain pull even harder against the matt.

09-21-2008, 10:22 PM	#1
Jim Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada Posts: 4,880	Chain / Swing Arm rubber slider? I'm talking about this piece here: I'm wondering if there is a better way to set this up, my sprocket and chain are always packed with rubber from chewing through this thing... I'm thinking I need to replace it with some rollers or something, any thoughts or suggestions? __________________ "Be excellent to each other" "We are all human. Let's start to prove it!"
	0

09-21-2008, 10:39 PM	#3
DDG1976 Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ringgold, Ga. Posts: 410	I was told to buy a cutting board from like the Dollar store, cut it to width and counter sink some holes in it for the screws. I haven't tried it yet. I have been looking at some of the roller type tension things on some of the pit bikes to try to adapt. Hopefully somebody out there has "been there done that". __________________ I have all of soberday to satur up!!
	0

09-21-2008, 10:42 PM	#4
Jim Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada Posts: 4,880	I'm going to have to go there pretty soon I think because mine looks like it has almost sawed all the way through now, this picture is from quite a while back... I was thinking the same thing, just have to watch for the top of the chain case cover on the motor if I use a springed roller like on my atv... Hopefully someone else has already got a good solution to this... __________________ "Be excellent to each other" "We are all human. Let's start to prove it!"
	0

09-22-2008, 05:26 AM	#5
tigertamer Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Wheeling, West Virginia Posts: 683	I have heard of the plastic cutting board retrofit too. From what I understand of the stock rubber set-up, the chain cuts in, to the point of contacting the chain rollers. Then the wear becomes more acceptable. Jim, is your wear to the point of roller contact? If so, does the wear seem to be the same rate? Just curious, Tigertamer __________________ 07 H-D XL883C 06 LF 200GY-5 Yin and Yang CAUTION Obey The Traffic Regulation. Always Wear a Helmet. Don't Ride After Drinking Wine. Before Operation, Read The Owners Manual Carefully.
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09-22-2008, 10:10 AM	#9
elroyjetsn Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: West Virginia Posts: 629	I used an old Subaru timing belt. Check this thread: http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...ht=timing+belt 3000km since, still going strong. __________________ Wayne Wildfire WF300-SP
	0

09-21-2008, 10:31 PM	#2
chinaguy Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Central Pennsylvania Posts: 125	Yeah, mine has the same thing. I'm also interested if somebody can suggest something better.
	0

09-22-2008, 05:51 AM	#6
TeamCheap Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: directly under the earths sun............NOW Posts: 2,302	I think the cutting board is just nylon and that is what you see on a lot of bikes/quads and other vehicles. It should be easy enough to make one out of nylon and it would wear far better than the rubber.
	0

09-22-2008, 07:21 AM	#8
chinariderinthesky Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: idaho falls idaho Posts: 118	what if you used a hifax from a snowmobile track. they are relatively cheap and almost cut to fit. they even have counter-sunk holes in them!
	0

09-22-2008, 02:52 PM	#10
Jim Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada Posts: 4,880	chinariderinthesky, I'll check that out thanks... elroyjetson, thanks for the link, interesting, I'll look into that too. __________________ "Be excellent to each other" "We are all human. Let's start to prove it!"
	0

09-22-2008, 06:44 PM	#12
TeamCheap Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: directly under the earths sun............NOW Posts: 2,302	Counter sinking holes in nylon is extremely EXTREMELY easy. All you need is a wood drill bit (SPADE DRILL BIT) that is slightly wider than the bolt you want to use. Mark the nylon and drill your counter sink hole to the depth you want and then change to a regular drill bit and drill the hole to the diameter you need for the bolt to fit thru. The little point on the spade bits leave you a very nice pilot hole to guide the final drill bit. I prefer the spade bits that are square at the ends but some have little points to help drill but are not what you'd want for counter sinking.
	0

09-23-2008, 08:32 AM	#14
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	Wrap tape around the bit at the depth you want to go. Probably about a 1/4". Allen __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
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