07-16-2008, 11:10 AM | #1 |
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 149
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Motor mounts
I noticed that it is suggested that we change our motor mounts. Where do we get the bolts? Also are there rubber mounts?
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07-16-2008, 01:00 PM | #2 |
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You can get good replacements at Ace Hardware. Get the grade 8 ones. also, though I cannot speak from experience, some folks have had luck using gorilla glue to dampen some of the vibes. search around the forum and you'll find the answers.
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07-16-2008, 02:37 PM | #3 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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You don't want to use rubber mounts.
All you have to do is get the correct size grade 8 bolts from ACE hardware and then you will need a drill and a good bit to enlarge the holes in the engine/mount so that the new bolts fit snug. It is the sloppy fit of the too small bolts that allows for the engine to shift in the frame. Allen
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07-16-2008, 02:44 PM | #4 |
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Location: Tejas
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I had to drive all over town to find the right size bolts.
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07-16-2008, 03:22 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
I did this with very close tolerance bits and reamers and the bolts were VERY snug when I did the upgrade for the two rear-most bolts. However, after some time I believe the softer aluminum engine castings vibrated more inside the opening resulting in the same problem. So, I tried the GG and it has has put an end to the vibes so far.
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07-16-2008, 03:59 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Jun 2006
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fatboy250 if thats the case then when I get to that point I may just have to sleeve the eninge case mounting holes and press/epoxy the sleeves in but that sounds a bit labor intensive(winter project).
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07-16-2008, 04:13 PM | #7 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: COLUMBIA, SC
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Yeah, Dad mentioned machining some sleeves out of a durable "teflon" material, but one would have to use a smaller diameter bolt and I'm not sure this would be a better solution.... So far I'm ok with the remaining vibes and I only did the two rear bolts with GG.
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07-16-2008, 04:23 PM | #8 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tejas
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Are the bolts permanently glued onto the engine?
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07-16-2008, 04:30 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000) |
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07-16-2008, 05:30 PM | #10 | ||
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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Quote:
My bike is not perfect, but the vibes are still much less. The sleave is probably the best solution and I believe I have seen larger bikes with sleeves in the mounts. Allen
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07-18-2008, 12:27 AM | #11 |
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Catskill Mnts NY
Posts: 85
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Im just finishing up my engine rebolt job and figured Id throw in a word here for those of you who might be into a little fab work on this issue. On the 163 FML engine in my 07 gy5, I found the common practice of the rear engine mounting ears badly out of center with the engine mounting holes. Our Asian friends make the fix by putting the smallish diameter bolts in place. IMO, the best fix for this is a long or std. 7/16ths drill on a extension and simply bore out the mounting hole cleanly starting with which ever side ear is most in line with the engine hole. Go all the way through from one side. DO NOT do one side parcialy cause the drill is too short then the other side to meat in the middle. That will give you a bananna hole= NG. The second trick is get 2, 7/16ths grade 8 or 5 bolts with shanks that are at least 4" long. I could only find 5" shanks so I turned the extra inch of shank to thread OD and just spun a die down the existing threads turning the extra shank into threads. The idea here is to have shank through both mounting ears, not shank on one end and threads of a short shank on the other. The washers will need a edge ground off to clear the top bend of the mounting ears. Once both rear engine main bolts are in and lock washered with red lock tight, I pulled the front mounting clam shell off and was amazed at the incredably poor fit. The little bolts have to tighten and force bend a motor mount that was nearly 1/8th wider ID than the tube frame mount hole thimbles! And the engine holes were so out of center I had to tap the skiny bolts out of there pinched possitions. This front mounting plate is a REAL ABORTION job!!! No wonder the rear mounts give up so quicky. SO, the only real fix is to fab up a new 2 pc mounting unit. The right side can be a simple flat plate if you weld a 7/16ths standard nut flat over the frame tube holes. this brings the right side of the frame flush with the right side of the engine mount holes. Make a card board cut out as a template to cover the 4 holes and then drill the new 1/8th thick plate after dykem marked & center punched for 3/8ths bolts. The engine holes will also need to be cleaned up with a Std length 3/8ths drill. Now on the left side, I cut a small peace of band steel from the shipping crate and scribe and drill the 2 bolt hole pattern on the frame holes. Then weld this short 1/8th thick plate over the left frame holes. This gives the new engine plate a FAR better base to tighten up on like the welded nuts on the right side (those tiny lips around the frame holes are a JOKE!). Now I used a 1 and 1/4" x 1 and 1/4" X 1/8th thick angel to come off the frame tube and this gives you the extension needed to mate (mig weld) up to the small fabed engine plate on the left side. NOW the front end is and will be anchored rock solid with ZERO slop. I first thought a frame under was the real answer, but after seeing how this new mount buttoned up, Im golden, wait'n for the Walbro now!!
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07-18-2008, 01:01 AM | #12 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tejas
Posts: 834
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You simply must post some fotos.
On my bike, I used 3/8" bolts on the front and the top mounts, and a 7/16" bolt on the lower back bolt. I had to enlarge the holes in the front and the top of the engine. The holes for the lower back bolt was almost perfectly sized, so no drilling was necessary. I did not rebolt the upper back bolt because I couldn't find a 7/16" bolt that long (9"). I hope the holes don't get larger over time.
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07-18-2008, 03:51 PM | #13 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: COLUMBIA, SC
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This is what I used after I drilled it close with drill bits. The reamer cleaned the hole and made everything exactly .500" for my 1/2" bolts
Jason
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2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000) |
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07-19-2008, 11:56 PM | #14 |
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Catskill Mnts NY
Posts: 85
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[quote="Dragon"]You simply must post some fotos.
I put 2 pics in the gallery under dieselhead. Is there a way to put a gallery photo into a posting?? |
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