Lifan X-pect 200 arrived, unboxing, first impressions

[ProDigit]

1500 mile maintenance:

Chain clean and lube, and refill fork oil.
Forks needed about 40ml of oil, 20 of that was heavy duty fork oil, the other 50% was 10 weight.
The bolts on the triple tree are behind the front cowl, 10mm.
The top caps are 17mm.
The springs push the caps several inches back once loose, almost got my fingers squished.

Procedure went fine, the front end is a little firmer, which hopefully will reduce high speed wobble, but not too firm. It still flies over speed bumps.

Of course also a valve adjustment. The first where I use negative valve clearance, so I don't always need to tighten the valve clearance every few hundred miles on the first 3k miles.

Also the tires seem to lose quite some air. In 6 months they lost 10psi.

[birdmove]

Is this bike a push rod engine?

[ProDigit]

Originally Posted by birdmove

Is this bike a push rod engine?

Yes

[ProDigit]

I'm running the Xpect with the O2 sensor unplugged.
The engine definitely increased in torque, which also increased vibrations slightly, and definitely will lower mpg.

The exhaust smell smells ok, not too rich, but also feels a lot hotter than before at the top of the muffler. This is probably the result of a richer mixture. The bike now easily hits 80mph, idling the engine, the exhaust header tubes now run so much cooler, to the point of where I think I can lean it out some more.

I'm contemplating on either going for a free flow exhaust setup, or a pod air filter. For that I'll first try to plug the O2 "bung hole" with an M12 shorty bolt, to at least get better exhaust flow (less back pressure).
Second mod will be pod airfilter again. To see if it can handle more air.
Third will be a crf230 exhaust with aftermarket muffler.

On the electric side, in order to get rid of the engine light, I might need to plug in a resistor between hot, and data signal. I want to achieve a voltage of 0.1V (rather than 0 V), so the bike will think that the O2 sensor is there.

More to come soon!

[ProDigit]

I capped off the O2 sensor hole with a M12 x 1.25 bolt.
I needed to use a 14mm nut as spacer, as the bolt was slightly too long.
My fuel mileage after the O2 sensor delete is roughly 5% worse than stock.

The bike ran too rich, so I tried 2 things.
1- remove the snorkel.
I wouldn't recommend it, as there definitely was a loss of torque noticeable, though top speed was roughly the same.
Airbox noise increased under load (past 50% of throttle) throughout the rev range, sounding noticeably louder on the left side from under the seat.
I found it a bit too loud, and probably wasn't very audible as the sound probably doesn't project very far.
The bike not only lost power, but from the O2 sensor replacement nut, I could see was white. The engine did run a lot smoother (less vibrations, almost like stock).

So I returned the snorkel back to the airbox.

2- as a second option to lean out the bike, I plugged the crankcase vent hose. I unplugged the breather hose from the airbox, inserted a bolt there that fit perfectly, and put the hose back.
In order to prevent the crankcase to build up positive pressure inside, I used a 1 to 2mm drill, and drilled 2 holes in the hose.
This results hot air from the crankcase to be vented to atmosphere rather than in the air intake.

Colder air, less exhaust fumes should result in a leaner running bike, somewhat. But the engine still ran rich (the O2 sensor indicated it, as well as engine vibrations still were there, though less than before the mod).

Performance was restored to nearly identical top speed runs as when I first unplugged the O2 sensor.

The third mod i did, was drill 3 holes of 3/8" diameter spread around the exhaust tip, in the exhaust can. This made the bike sound really good revving the bike at standstill! I then applied a coat of Rust-Oleum high heat paint,that unfortunately dripped down, but at least it's functional.

My hope is that it will free up the exhaust somewhat, and make the bike run a tad leaner.

Without measuring tools, it's hard to say, but I think running the base fuel map, the bike runs rich at idle, and only slightly rich at top speed.
I'm hoping this exhaust mod will help rectify the rich issue.


From me playing around, I would advise against modifying anything on the intake side of the bike. The airbox also has sensors mounted to them, one I believe to be a vacuum sensor (but could be wrong).
And instead focus on modifying the exhaust.

In hotter climates, you'll definitely want to disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the intake, and plug the airbox side.

In especially hot and high altitude areas, I would advise against running the base fuel map, unless if modifying the exhaust to a freeflow exhaust can lean out the overtly rich fuel map for those altitudes.

I'll test tomorrow how the 3 x 3/8" holes in the exhaust affect top speed running the base fuel map.

[LowBrewTow]

Watching this thread intently. I purchased an X-pect in January and have hated how easily it stalls out. I also removed the O2 sensor and immediately felt a power increase. Also noticed how chalk white the sensor is with only 100 miles on it! I purchased an aftermarket exhaust and will put it on this weekend and see how it feels. There is potential in these bikes that is held back by the lean tuning. Not sure if plugging up the breather tube is a good idea. I'm removing mine from the airbox and putting a small air filter on the end.

[LowBrewTow]

Originally Posted by ProDigit

I'm running the Xpect with the O2 sensor unplugged.

Originally Posted by ProDigit

Colder air, less exhaust fumes should result in a leaner running bike, somewhat. But the engine still ran rich (the O2 sensor indicated it, as well as engine vibrations still were there, though less than before the mod).

Performance was restored to nearly identical top speed runs as when I first unplugged the O2 sensor.

I am confused, did you remove the O2 sensor or not? If you did where are you putting the sensor outside the exhaust pipe?

[ProDigit]

Originally Posted by LowBrewTow

I am confused, did you remove the O2 sensor or not? If you did where are you putting the sensor outside the exhaust pipe?

At first I just unplugged it.
However, it's still blocking exhaust flow by 10-15% even with just 2 or 3 turns in.

So I totally removed it, and plugged the hole with an M12 x 1.25 (standard M12 bolts are like 1.75 thread pitch, so they won't fit).

The M12 bolt was too long, so I used an M14 nut of approx 1/4" thickness and a washer as a spacer.
Now the bottom of the bolt is pretty flush with the exhaust tube inside (about 1/4 in threaded in the bung), and should offer zero resistance.


About capping off the breather tube, I've done it before.
Even at 100% throttle, it takes at least a minute of running before oil starts seeping past the seals due to positive crank case pressure.

I did some tests with drilling a single 1mm hole in the breather tube I had plugged, and it seemed sufficient.
I try to keep the holes 1mm, as there is less chance of bugs crawling in the crankcase, or water getting in.
I recommend 2 holes, just in case by some odd reason the first hole gets clogged.

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Yesterday, I drilled 3x 3/8" holes in the exhaust, to free up exhaust flow, so the mixture can lean out some.
While it definitely helped, it wasn't enough.
So today I drilled out the 3/8" holes with a 1/2" drill, and it sounds a lot better.
I can feel there's more air being vented through the holes, and the bike now idling sounds pretty good!
The exhaust itself also doesn't smell rich anymore.

You have to take in consideration that I live in Florida.
Sea level means more oxygen, and the bike running more lean, and hot weather means running richer.

If your elevation is high, and you're living in a hot climate, your bike will tend to run very rich, and you'll need a full exhaust.
If you live at sea level, at colder climates, your bike will tend to run leaner, and you may need to add some back pressure to a full exhaust.

I will do top speed runs soon, to see how the plug will be colored.
Aiming for golden brown.

I also have a crf230 exhaust on order, with matching slipon, which I will test, to see what full exhaust I will use.
I only assume the Xpect has a catalytic converter built in the exhaust muffler part of the bike. So swapping to a shorty exhaust may be a lot louder and leaner. Maybe even too lean?

Anyway, test run data will be uploaded probably by Sunday.

[LowBrewTow]

I live in east TX north of Houston. 300 ft above sea level and just as hot/humid as FL in the summer months. I remember reading somewhere that there is a cat in the Xpect exhaust. I bought a "catback" exhaust for now.

I noticed that if the bike stalls it doesnt want to start unless you put it back in neutral. Not sure if they are all like this. (I did swap out the stock clutch lever and assembly for an aftermarket one which removed the two prong wiring connection and switch/sensor that the clutch cable contacted on the back of the stock assembly) not sure if that is needed for anything or could cause any problems?

[ProDigit]

Not sure but most China bikes use the clutch switch and sidestand peg switch (in combination with the gears) to determine if it's safe to fire up the bike.

I also noticed that it takes the system approx 2 seconds before it starts the bike again.
Unlike with a regular bike, the Xpect won't start if you give it throttle.

Once you stall, wait 2 seconds (which is a long time when you're behind a red light that just turned green), and just touch the starter. No throttle. It should fire up within a second or two.

[ProDigit]

The 3x 1/2" holes in the exhaust made the engine vibrations smooth out, and the bike overall feels much smoother, despite the O2 bolt showing the mixture is still a bit on the rich side.

Also the exhaust note is much better.

As a con, the top end on the bike suffered, most likely due to a more stoic, or lean condition.

Overall the low to mid speed riding smoothed out, though with a slight reduction in torque. Speeds of over 60mph are mainly affected.
My top speed run with the 1/2" holes dropped from ~77/80 mph to 77/76. A reduction of 2mph.

Since it's pretty cool outside now, I'll see how the bike will respond to the hotter air, where it should run a bit richer (unless it adjusts for intake temperature as well).

This all means that a freeflow exhaust will run lean, everywhere except maybe at higher altitudes, resulting in poor top speed performance.


In conclusion,
The best results are gotten leaving your bike stock, unplug the O2 sensor and buy a M12x 1.25 bolt to screw in the bung..
Then drill 3x 3/8" holes for maximum torque and top speed performance, but slightly poorer mpg,
Or,
Drill out 1 to 2 of the holes to a 1/2", for a slightly leaner mixture, smoother bottom end but also lower mpg than stock, but better mpg than with the 3/8 holes.

An oil cooler and installing a fiberglass exhaust wrap is not necessary anymore with this mod.

I would advise against modding the air intake, and exhaust any further, unless you have a way to enrich the mixture through tuning or other.

[ProDigit]

With the exhaust mod, the bike starts running very lean again at idle and at top speed, to the point where it's almost the same as before the whole O2 sensor delete.
This due to some of the restriction of the exhaust flow being reduced through the larger exhaust holes.

This mod unfortunately is kind of irreversible, unless one can weld some material back and make the holes smaller again.

In a way, my exhaust is now reacting like a freeflow exhaust system.

So if you want to put an aftermarket exhaust on the bike, you'll also experience the bike running way too lean.

In a twist, or turn of events, I found a rather simple solution to the problem, going back to restricting the flow a bit at the header.

Using the M12 x 1.25 bolt in the O2 bung, I can now dial in how rich or lean the bike is at idle and at high rpm, regaining my top speed, as well as reduce idle heat, and reintroducing a bit of low end torque.

Though this will also result in riding a bit richer in the mid throttle range, and affect mpg.

In other words, if you have done the same to your bike, or run a crf230 exhaust, you'll need to install an o2 sensor bung in the exhaust, close to the exhaust port, and use washers under a bolt to set the bolt height and control how much you'll restrict the exhaust flow.

With my current setup, I am restricting the exhaust tube by about 10%, which feels like the perfect compromise between torque, top speed, and mpg at cruising speeds.

[ProDigit]

1.8k mile maintenance:

Today I found some of the rubber washers of the exhaust starting to disintegrate and crack.
Not sure what product would restore the washers or retail whatever is left of them.



As far as using the bolt to introduce an exhaust restriction, it seems unsuccessful to regain previous top speeds.

It appears that running the exhaust with the 3x 3/8" holes was the ideal back pressure for top speed, and somehow I'm able to create the same air fuel ratio with the bolt screwed in the O2 bung, but restricted airflow at high rpm, or the same airflow, but the bike running leaner.

Causing me to hover between 73-77mph at worst, and 77-79 mph at best.

I would recommend anyone to not restrict the exhaust at the O2 bung side, but go for the 3x 3/8" holes instead.

Since I have expanded the 3/8" holes to 1/2", and the performance dropped (too lean), I did some math with the help of google Gemini.

A single 3/8" hole has an area of approx 0.1104²in.
3 of these equal 0.3312²in.

A single 1/2" hole has an area of approx 0.1963²in.
2 of these equal 0.3926²in.

The difference between them is 0.0614²in or has approx the same flow rate as the 3x 3/8" holes, plus a ~5/18" or 7mm hole.

In other words, capping off one of the three holes should result in a tiny fraction leaner running bike than the previous ideal configuration of 3x 3/8" holes.

Since the bottom hole seems the easiest to cap, because it has the least amount of wavy surface on it, I've decided to try to plug it using a 12mm threaded rivet, that I can also seal off with a bolt.

This will be the simplest correction to restoring a similar airflow as before.

At the same time, I'll open the exhaust tubing at the bung side again, to regain the same settings.


If anyone wants to gain some HP, but doesn't want to be bothered by drilling the exhaust, they could raise the O2 sensor using an M12 x 1
25 nut, and use a resistor of specific voltsge to lower the overall voltage between the signal wire and ground.

I might not be bothered with it on my bike, as my solution works reasonably well.

Previous fuel mileage doing speed runs resulted in 71mpg, which is single digits lower than with O2 sensor plugged in.