Templar X 250

[CC-John]

Been pecking away at the bike for the past few evenings, there's not a bolt that hasn't been checked or loctited. The carburetor has been relieved of all it's tamperproof crap, just waiting on my jet kit to get here so I can fatten it up a bit. The jets were supposed to be delivered Friday, but are currently lost in the USPS vortex..

I pondered how to deal with the rear light wiring that runs exposed under the fender. My OCD would never allow me to secure it with gorilla tape or drill holes in the plastics for zip ties, so I came up with my own approach after studying the situation over a few beers.. Made a cardboard pattern of a nice bracket that would mount under the bolt that secures the rear rack. Took the pattern out to the garage and pulled a small piece of 1/16" thick aluminum sheet from my scrap pile, transferred the pattern and fired up the plasma cutter and had a bracket blank in less than 5 minutes. A bit of hammer work shaping it over a steel rod, dressed the edges with a grinder, and drilled a hole to mount it, then went in for a test fit on the bike.
100_3319 by cc_john67, on Flickr

100_3320 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Gave it a coat of Zinc Chromate primer, and a couple coats of semi-gloss Rustoleum and it was ready for final installation. All the plug connectors were shot full of LPS 3 anti corrosion coating and everything placed in split loom. Don't think I'll be having any issues with the rear light wiring for a while.

100_3322 by cc_john67, on Flickr

100_3323 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Broke out the roll of gasket material and cut a gasket for the intake manifold as I've never been too keen on those molded rubber manifolds. That little bead of rubber that they leave "proud" of the flange surface always seems to end up leaking over time..

100_3321 by cc_john67, on Flickr

During the wire harness inspection and cleanup, I cut over 14" extra inches of wire off the solenoid to starter wire. The extra was just looped over the harness and secured with zipties. It now makes a straight path from the solenoid to the starter, along with moving the main battery ground from up on the cylinder head to down under one of the starter mounting bolts. Now the starter effortlessly spins the engine over, even with the crappy battery the bike was shipped with.

100_3324 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Hoping my MSO/BOS will show up early next week so I can start the ball rolling on getting it insured, inspected, and registered..

[CC-John]

I found a new use for a long neglected tool I've had since the days of when you could still buy a new car or truck with a carburetor. My old Thexton #358 GM Idle Mixture Adjusting Tool is just the ticket for easily adjusting the the now liberated idle mixture needle in my Templar. A quick Google search shows these tools are still floating around.

The tool is just a short length of speedometer cable with a small hex bit on one end for some Ford carburetors, a small slotted bit on the other for GM carburetors, with a sliding "handle" between them.

100_3325 by cc_john67, on Flickr

I had to slightly file down the width of the "GM" bit to fit the narrower head in the YouAll carburetor, but the shoulder pilots perfectly in the anti-tamper plug bore just like it did on automotive carburetors to keep the bit squarely aligned with the needle.

100_3326 by cc_john67, on Flickr

And now for the "Money Shot"!

100_3328 by cc_john67, on Flickr

Needless to say, this tool has found a new permanent home in my motorcycle tool box..

[Crossbar]

yeah, I like that carb tool, nice.
Do you have a link to the jet kit you purchased for the stock carb? I wanting to do the same to mine this winter.

[CC-John]

Originally Posted by Crossbar

yeah, I like that carb tool, nice.
Do you have a link to the jet kit you purchased for the stock carb? I wanting to do the same to mine this winter.

I picked up the jet kit off Ebay that was listed in the Templar Resource thread.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/33452758499...MAAOSwNu1kuj7I

You can use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the head of the bowl screws to remove them. I could see traces of Loctite on my bowl screws so I took a propane torch and heated the carb body at the screw boss to soften the threadlocker and the screws just backed right out. Doesn't take much heat, the carb didn't get any hotter than it would on a hot running engine.

[Crossbar]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

No way it will balance easily for road unless you pull out the rimlocks..

Took a little weight but mine dialed in ok.

[Crossbar]

Took about 105g to get it right with the rim locks on...

[CC-John]

Got my Kenda K760's mounted up and balanced yesterday. After stripping the OEM tires, tubes, and rim strips off the wheels, I went over all the spokes with a spoke torque wrench, and used a Dremel with a round grinding stone to remove some nasty burrs on the heads of some of the spoke nipples. Surprisingly, both bare wheels had close to a 10 gram imbalance when placed on the balancer.

Popped the plugs in the old rim lock holes, installed new rim strips and heavy duty tubes with the Kendas, then put them on the balancer. I ordered a few strips of black 5 gram stick on weights to balance the wheels.

A couple shots of the new street sneakers..

100_3331 by cc_john67, on Flickr

100_3329 by cc_john67, on Flickr

The front wheel took 30 grams of weight to balance.

100_3332 by cc_john67, on Flickr

The rear wheel took 25 grams of weight to balance.

100_3330 by cc_john67, on Flickr

[bigdano711]

Nice work on that wire management, CC-John, and great pics!