Just got a XPro Templar 250X

[ProDigit]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

Jets are not the issue. It's the needle. As soon as you crack the throttle, you're out of the idle circuit and into the mid-range, the domain of the needle. If it's idling good, you probably don't have to mess with the pilot jet. The needle in these carbs can be shimmed or adjusted in only one direction. You have to cut slots in the bowl screws to get them off. The air/fuel mixture screw is located in a pretty ridiculous place, but if you have the will, it can be gotten to. Seeing where you're at in relation to turns in/out, well, hahaha.


Again, I've been to hell and back. I went to the Nibbi, and it was still doing it. I tried every needle position and many jets. The Nibbi needle is weird. I went to the Keihin JJH needle and that is what I'm running now and what you see in the vid. Still has the issue, but WAY better.


Maybe there is some vastly superior edge between the Templar motor and the Hawk motor, but I doubt it. It comes down to fuel delivery at the moment of cracking the throttle, and the bike starves for fuel and dies. Pretty simple and straight forward.

Yeah, but if the mid is too lean, the top end will be too lean as well.
I would suggest increasing the main jet by at least 4 sizes. The OEM PZ30, or PZ30 from Amazon or Alibaba, comes with a 95, 100 or 105 main, and a 38 pilot. I would try at least a 110-115 main. The 38 pilot may be lean, but can be riched out with enriching the main and adjusting the AF screw.

Then from there see if you need to increase the needle jet. The ones from Amazon or AliExpress have a 5 position clip. I raised mine by 1.5 (clip one down, and a small washer underneath, as 2 slots was too rich for me).
If you are able to adjust the stock carburetor (remove the tamper proof screws), you can always stack 2 or 3 washers under the clip, since the stock carb jet needle will more than likely not have any adjustment grooves on it.