06-19-2008, 10:27 PM | #1 |
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 172
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Engine Rebolt
So i had been expieriencing some pretty bad vibes, which caused me to decide to attempt the engine rebolt that was first performed by TEAMCHEAP. I drilled out the 4 front bolts to 3/8 and put gorilla glue all along the shank.
I put the bolt in and used 2 washers and a lock washer and torque the bolts down tight. I also added a second lock nut. Next i remade the top mounts, inspired again by team cheap. I performed the same procedure with the bolts. The bottom two bolts were too hard to drill out, so i just put gorilla glue all along shank and really torqued them down. By the way I also used locktite on the bolts. So i let it all sit for about 3 days and today i fired it up and it was like a totally different bike. I was amazed at how smooth it was. I cranked it all the way up to 70mph and it was barely vibrating at all. Usually the vibes were unbearable at about 45-50mph. All i can say is this is the best thing ive done to the bike and it cost under $10 and only took about 3hrs. By the way i have the pushrod engine. |
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06-19-2008, 10:34 PM | #2 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Franklin, Missouri
Posts: 243
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other than the gorilla glue. I did the same thing when I tore my bike down the first time. lost alot my shakes that way too.
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'09 Kawasaki KLR 650 '07 Zongshen 200cc Dirt Bike K&N cone filter, FMF Powercore Exhaust, Moose Barkbusters & lotta threadlock. |
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06-19-2008, 11:29 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 193
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I just retorqued my bolts yesterday with an impact wrench.. Replaced some of them cause I broke them.
Unfortunatly it made little difference.. The vibes are still there, they changed a little.. but still sucks at 65 MPH... hands are tingling after about an hour ride. Next thing is to try some silicone.. last resort will be the gorilla glue. I think my vibration problem may be engine related.. mabye something a little bent inside.. The engine runs great .. but I wonder if reving the heck out of it for the first year with the stock 56t sprocket may have twisted something. On the bright side, I fabricated a new battery bracket out of some free metal given to me by the dealer I bought it from. I re inforced it so it should not break again. Ken Ken |
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06-19-2008, 11:36 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: mn
Posts: 183
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I did the glue thing but with silicone instead , what i did was like put the bolt in partially squeef some silicone in the open end and draw it in like a syringe, then i plugged the open end and pushed the bolt in and that made the silicone ooz back over the bolt and force its way to fill in the air gap in the hole.,,, does that make sence? andway it was like night and day, i took it out for 2 hours and the vibes were much better
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06-19-2008, 11:38 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: mn
Posts: 183
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how bout a little shot of expanding fast foam in the hole, be carefull not to get on skin ,
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06-20-2008, 01:31 AM | #6 |
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 172
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i think the real key is to redrill the holes and put the bigger bolts in. it really takes the slack up
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06-20-2008, 10:27 AM | #7 | |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: COLUMBIA, SC
Posts: 973
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Quote:
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2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000) |
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06-30-2008, 04:12 PM | #8 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Hampshire England
Posts: 191
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I have just done the same as justinkr58 - using standard size bolts and high temp silicone sealant. Huge difference - much reduced vibes.
I also found out that the red high temp silicone (only stuff I could get) is just the worst stuff for getting everywhere I had a moment's anxiety about using silicone which releases Acetic acid (vinegar I think!) when curing but tests on for spare bolts suggest this is a non-issue. I almost have a silicone mounted engine 8O Frog |
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06-30-2008, 04:17 PM | #9 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Franklin, Missouri
Posts: 243
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Hrmm silicone implant engine....kinky
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'09 Kawasaki KLR 650 '07 Zongshen 200cc Dirt Bike K&N cone filter, FMF Powercore Exhaust, Moose Barkbusters & lotta threadlock. |
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06-30-2008, 04:19 PM | #10 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: COLUMBIA, SC
Posts: 973
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I used the same technique with GG and just did the biggest rear bottom bolts. It seems to be ok so far I will know in a few more miles. I thought I had this thing figured out a couple times before....so I hesitate to say that it's fixed.
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2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000) |
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06-30-2008, 04:23 PM | #11 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tomball, TX
Posts: 382
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what silicon are you using?? Brand name? Etc...Maybe a photo.
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-2005 Sierra SR200- |
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06-30-2008, 04:30 PM | #12 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Hampshire England
Posts: 191
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Silicone I used is from a builders merchant in a big tube you use with a caulking gun - cost in the UK £3.75- about $7 or £8 and if it does not set in the tube I have enough to last a life time and then some.................
The intended application is fitting cooker flues / chimneys and fitting cooker glass doors etc - heat resistant to 300f Frog |
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06-30-2008, 04:34 PM | #13 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Tomball, TX
Posts: 382
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thanks I will check out my local hardware store for something with high heat resistance.
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-2005 Sierra SR200- |
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06-30-2008, 04:35 PM | #14 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Hampshire England
Posts: 191
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Hey Yurkia
if I use some more do you think it will become a 250??? Frog |
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07-01-2008, 08:43 AM | #15 | |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: COLUMBIA, SC
Posts: 973
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Quote:
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2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000) |
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