leaking fork oil on TT - Page 2

flopsweat · 10-01-2022, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

this is specifically if you need to remove the cap completely. The fork needs to be removed from the triple tree clamps and then yes the stanchion tube needs to be moved down. Then you will see that the cap is screwed into a tube/bar inside the fork itself.

If the cap needs to be removed fully or not to do the work you need to do I cannot answer. I would most likely guess it does though.

Hmm interesting. This is what Matt at csc said: "You should be able to unscrew the cap and pull straight up (the long needle is attached to the bottom of the cap and will come out with it). You then gain access to the underside of the cap by loosening the nut on the bottom."

Megadan · 10-02-2022, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flopsweat

Hmm interesting. This is what Matt at csc said: "You should be able to unscrew the cap and pull straight up (the long needle is attached to the bottom of the cap and will come out with it). You then gain access to the underside of the cap by loosening the nut on the bottom."

I would want to clarify with them if their directions are based on the fork being removed from the bike or not.

flopsweat · 10-03-2022, 02:20 PM

Finally heard back, he said they're going to do some photos or a video this week detailing the process. I wonder if I annoyed them enough to make another youtube video or if it will just be sent to me...

Just in time, because the leak got too bad for me to feel comfortable riding. It had been just a drop or two on the cap after a ride, and this morning after getting to work I noticed it was enough to splash a few drops on my jacket and gas tank as it was starting to run down the tube.

flopsweat · 10-06-2022, 12:32 PM

Got it! Well not completed, but I have the route planned. CSC just emailed me back with a new tutorial they added to their website. Definitely clears up the clouds I had of "what is under there?" and I'll give it a go this weekend.

https://cscmotorcycles.com/tt250-for...ings-tutorial/

Hunnicutt · 10-07-2022, 11:05 AM

I'm glad they went the extra mile to help you out, flopsweat!! That tutorial may save someone else some pain as well!!

The CSC Team is dedicated to supporting their customers, and is willing to take whatever steps necessary to keep their motorcycles rolling!!

Wild Dog · 10-07-2022, 11:52 AM

Kudos to CSC, that's good service and wanting to keep the clients coming back.

Mistakes can happen and they can be forgiven but bad company support is deadly sin.

Now you are at it, you could change every O Ring with quality ones and change the oil

flopsweat · 10-10-2022, 09:26 AM

Well holy crap I actually did it. The whole process probably took me 4-6hrs, and half of that was standing around and looking at things. Their tutorial was key, as it showed which parts needed to move where or have thread lock and required some muscle. The toughest part was getting the spring and ball bearing seated into the adjustment screw (using grease just to stick them together), and then getting that screw slot seated into the rod "wedge" when screwing the aluminum cap back on. I went ahead and did both forks (which needed to come out like Megadan first suggested), changing the adjustment screw o-ring, dumping the old gray/black/stinky fork oil, and replacing it with some nice new red 15W fork oil as was suggested by CSC (250cc / 9oz per leg).

SO what does this adjustment screw actually do? I feel like the front end suspension might be a little bit tighter than it was before, meaning before when coming to a quick stop, the front end would compress down, release back up past the "neutral" point, and fall back down to the neutral point. Now, it compresses down, and releases back up straight to the neutral point without overshooting it. The screw is turned all the way ccw (-) as it was before.

For street riding, does that sound like it might be dialed in better than before, or worse? I've never really ridden another motorcycle enough to compare, so I don't know. But nothing feels off or imbalanced between the two forks.

10-07-2022, 11:05 AM	#20
Hunnicutt Join Date: Apr 2021 Location: Central Florida Posts: 103	I'm glad they went the extra mile to help you out, flopsweat!! That tutorial may save someone else some pain as well!! The CSC Team is dedicated to supporting their customers, and is willing to take whatever steps necessary to keep their motorcycles rolling!! __________________ ___________________________________ 2021 CSC TT250 - Silver (Mine) "Buzz" 2021 CSC TT250 - White (Wife's) "Seymour" 2021 CSC TT250 - White (Daughter's) "Gemini"
	0

10-03-2022, 02:20 PM	#18
flopsweat Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: The burbs of Chicago Posts: 237	Finally heard back, he said they're going to do some photos or a video this week detailing the process. I wonder if I annoyed them enough to make another youtube video or if it will just be sent to me... Just in time, because the leak got too bad for me to feel comfortable riding. It had been just a drop or two on the cap after a ride, and this morning after getting to work I noticed it was enough to splash a few drops on my jacket and gas tank as it was starting to run down the tube.
	0

10-06-2022, 12:32 PM	#19
flopsweat Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: The burbs of Chicago Posts: 237	Got it! Well not completed, but I have the route planned. CSC just emailed me back with a new tutorial they added to their website. Definitely clears up the clouds I had of "what is under there?" and I'll give it a go this weekend. https://cscmotorcycles.com/tt250-for...ings-tutorial/
	2

10-07-2022, 11:52 AM	#21
Wild Dog Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Argentina Posts: 756	Kudos to CSC, that's good service and wanting to keep the clients coming back. Mistakes can happen and they can be forgiven but bad company support is deadly sin. Now you are at it, you could change every O Ring with quality ones and change the oil
	0

10-10-2022, 09:26 AM	#22
flopsweat Join Date: Oct 2021 Location: The burbs of Chicago Posts: 237	Well holy crap I actually did it. The whole process probably took me 4-6hrs, and half of that was standing around and looking at things. Their tutorial was key, as it showed which parts needed to move where or have thread lock and required some muscle. The toughest part was getting the spring and ball bearing seated into the adjustment screw (using grease just to stick them together), and then getting that screw slot seated into the rod "wedge" when screwing the aluminum cap back on. I went ahead and did both forks (which needed to come out like Megadan first suggested), changing the adjustment screw o-ring, dumping the old gray/black/stinky fork oil, and replacing it with some nice new red 15W fork oil as was suggested by CSC (250cc / 9oz per leg). SO what does this adjustment screw actually do? I feel like the front end suspension might be a little bit tighter than it was before, meaning before when coming to a quick stop, the front end would compress down, release back up past the "neutral" point, and fall back down to the neutral point. Now, it compresses down, and releases back up straight to the neutral point without overshooting it. The screw is turned all the way ccw (-) as it was before. For street riding, does that sound like it might be dialed in better than before, or worse? I've never really ridden another motorcycle enough to compare, so I don't know. But nothing feels off or imbalanced between the two forks.
	0