TBR7 Squeaky/Rubber-On-Rubber Sound From Rear Wheel Area

[Tomkay44]

I've got basically no miles on my new TBR7.
I want to take all of you all's advice and get it good and ready (greased and lubed properly) so I can enjoy it while not hurting it.
I'm getting a squeaky, rubber on rubber sound from my rear wheel. I think it's coming from the pads not coming all the way off the disc. More so on one side than the other. I've got it adjusted as much as I can on the clevis end by the brake pedal. Is there any adjusting I can do on the hub/disc end of the rear brake system?
Also, what's this screw and lock nut for by the rear brake pedal? I've watched Collin's videos on 3PDs. When I screen shot and blow it up (bad eyes makes all this tuff), it's not on his TBR7. Since the pedal is basically stopped by the bottom of the kick start, it serves no purpose but to confuse me. If that's what it's for, great job! It's working.
Thanks in advance.

Image of rear brake pads on disc
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...127_213032.jpg

Image of purposeless bolt and lock nut
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...127_213312.jpg

[XLsior]

use a spray water bottle as a diagnostic tool too pinpoint a noise (friction)source.

spray a location and see if the noise persists...if so spray another location and so on.

If the noise eventually stops or changes then you can dive deeper into that problem area.

[Tomkay44]

Originally Posted by XLsior

use a spray water bottle as a diagnostic tool too pinpoint a noise (friction)source.

spray a location and see if the noise persists...if so spray another location and so on.

If the noise eventually stops or changes then you can dive deeper into that problem area.

Great idea XLsior. I'll sure try that. Thanks

[J4Fun]

The purposeless bolt and lock nut are there for an up stop for the brake pedal. If not adjusted right the master brake cylinder plunger is going to do the job. I would adjust so that the master plunger doesn’t hit bottom hard. The brake return springs will be hard on the master over time. Hence the reason for the bolt. My thoughts on my Hawk DLX?

[Tomkay44]

Originally Posted by XLsior

use a spray water bottle as a diagnostic tool too pinpoint a noise (friction)source.

spray a location and see if the noise persists...if so spray another location and so on.

If the noise eventually stops or changes then you can dive deeper into that problem area.

I sprayed the disc & calipers with water but the squeak persisted so I took the rear wheel and found the source. The rack that the calipers bolt to has a metal axle bolt bushing built on it. That metal bushing goes inside the rubber bushing that, it looks like, holds the metal roller bearings inside the wheel. The sound was the metal, glossy enamel painted bushing rubbing on the rubber bushing in the wheel.
I probably tightened the axle bolt to much when I adjusted the chain. I'll know better to torque it on the next tightening. That'll be after I grease the swingarm berrings and put a zert in it while I've got everything apart.
Do I need to take the wheel bearings out or can I just saturate them with grease real good where they're sitting?
Thanks for you all's help.

[severely]

Originally Posted by Tomkay44

I sprayed the disc & calipers with water but the squeak persisted so I took the rear wheel and found the source. The rack that the calipers bolt to has a metal axle bolt bushing built on it. That metal bushing goes inside the rubber bushing that, it looks like, holds the metal roller bearings inside the wheel. The sound was the metal, glossy enamel painted bushing rubbing on the rubber bushing in the wheel.
I probably tightened the axle bolt to much when I adjusted the chain. I'll know better to torque it on the next tightening. That'll be after I grease the swingarm berrings and put a zert in it while I've got everything apart.
Do I need to take the wheel bearings out or can I just saturate them with grease real good where they're sitting?
Thanks for you all's help.

Yes, proper torque values are your friend. When installing the swingarm zerk use plenty of grease on the drill bit and thread tap to minimize metal chips in the swingarm and then use a rag or paper towel to push out any remaining chips. a quick swipe with grease should be used in the wheel bearing and spacer area, waterproof grease helps keep moisture out of the bearings. You may want to remove the wheel bearing outer seal to learn the wheel bearing numbers so when replacement time comes due you can have double sealed bearings rather than the single side seal I suspect are there now to replace them with. Good luck.

[Tomkay44]

Thanks severely. That's what I'll do.

[Tomkay44]

Originally Posted by severely

Yes, proper torque values are your friend. When installing the swingarm zerk use plenty of grease on the drill bit and thread tap to minimize metal chips in the swingarm and then use a rag or paper towel to push out any remaining chips. a quick swipe with grease should be used in the wheel bearing and spacer area, waterproof grease helps keep moisture out of the bearings. You may want to remove the wheel bearing outer seal to learn the wheel bearing numbers so when replacement time comes due you can have double sealed bearings rather than the single side seal I suspect are there now to replace them with. Good luck.

Do I just pry that rubber outer seal off with a thin screw driver to get to the wheel bearing? It seams like it's on there pretty good.

[severely]

Originally Posted by Tomkay44

Do I just pry that rubber outer seal off with a thin screw driver to get to the wheel bearing? It seams like it's on there pretty good.

Use a flat tip screwdriver or tire iron to get as far underneath the seal as you can to avoid distorting the seal and give said tool a twisting motion to push seal away from the bearing. Don't get impatient, rotate the tool around the inside edge of seal to raise evenly. And if a screwdriver is used be sure not to damage the outer seal of the bearing itself. Clean and lubricate the seal after you record the bearing numbers and re-install. Seal numbers sure come in handy also for future reference. BTW