02-23-2021, 11:40 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Ft lauderdale
Posts: 42
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Apollo 250 slowly died now won't start
Hi all,
I have had this bike for quite some time and have done a lot to it. It was running great! Couple of weeks ago I took it out rode around the neighborhood and the bike started to sputter until it quit. Walked it home let cool of and it started again. I took it out the following week same thing except this time it was harder to start once it cooled and it missed when rev'd Take it out the next day very hard to start I get going and it's ok until the upper rpms where it start to sputter bad, it gets worst so I turn around and barely made it home. It has not wanted to start after that. Only a faint back fire here and there when cranked. Here is what I have done so far. Cleaned the carb (mikuni rep) thoroughly. Installed new coil, CDI and rectifier. Still nothing. I tried spraying starting fluid ..nothing. It has spark (i verified) but cranks over as easily so I can tell it not combusting, but it has fuel and has spark. I' am at a loss at this point. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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02-24-2021, 07:47 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Houma, La.
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Yep, Needs valves adjusted.
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02-24-2021, 08:45 AM | #4 |
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 19
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May check your coil pack, That will sometimes give you the same problem
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02-24-2021, 10:15 AM | #5 |
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Flower Mound Texas
Posts: 904
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Start with a new spark plug, even if your old one appears to be firing. I dont think its valve lash (but you should check it) as they loosen up after they run awhile, yours got hot then quit. It sounds electrical.
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2021 Tao Tbr7 - "Lucille" Mods so far- Brozz swingarm, 21" front rim (Bridgestone Tw302 rear/Dunlop D606 front tires), Digital gauge cluster, pz30b pumper carb, after market hand guards, aftermarket brake and clutch levers, round fold away mirrors, Fly handlebars shortened slightly, 13t front sprocket 2009 Q-link Legacy 250 1982 Suzuki GS1100ES - "Jolene" |
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02-24-2021, 11:33 AM | #6 |
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Port Huron, Michigan
Posts: 637
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Valve lash tighten with wear and heat, which is why they have any clearance to begin with. When the bike gets to temp and they are tight you end up with the valve not seating and loss of compression which ends up with loss of power or not running any longer. Continued running like this will eventually burn the valve seats. He says it has spark still and that it turns over easy, if it's turning over easy the compression is probably low.
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2020 Triumph Tiger 900 rally. 2018 Bashan Storm 250. pz30b, digital cluster + gear indicator, unifilter and car customs full exhaust. 2019 Taotao 110b boulder atv. The "arm breaker" lol 2007 Honda VTX 1300R. 1974 Suzuki tm125, work in progress 2001 Suzuki Drz 400s. |
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02-24-2021, 01:48 PM | #7 | |
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Flower Mound Texas
Posts: 904
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Quote:
They do get tighter as they wear, but they get looser on these when the motor gets warmer. The cylinder and head expand more than the steel pushrod and valves. That's why one of the first signs of the lash being too tight is they get harder to start when cold.
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2021 Tao Tbr7 - "Lucille" Mods so far- Brozz swingarm, 21" front rim (Bridgestone Tw302 rear/Dunlop D606 front tires), Digital gauge cluster, pz30b pumper carb, after market hand guards, aftermarket brake and clutch levers, round fold away mirrors, Fly handlebars shortened slightly, 13t front sprocket 2009 Q-link Legacy 250 1982 Suzuki GS1100ES - "Jolene" |
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02-24-2021, 07:45 PM | #8 |
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Ft lauderdale
Posts: 42
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Thanks all I will check the valve clearance, but the way it went out after it was running like a top has me inclined to think it's something electrical.. Who knows though these bike do really weird things sometimes. I'll update here once I find the issue.
Just to recap: New coil (coil on plug conversion btw) New CDI New rectifier Carb thoroughly (cleaned mikuni clone) Sparkplug NGK iridium with maybe 3 hours on it. The bike has spark (verified) Spray starting fluid and nothing happens either. |
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02-24-2021, 08:16 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Flower Mound Texas
Posts: 904
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Have you got a compression gauge?
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2021 Tao Tbr7 - "Lucille" Mods so far- Brozz swingarm, 21" front rim (Bridgestone Tw302 rear/Dunlop D606 front tires), Digital gauge cluster, pz30b pumper carb, after market hand guards, aftermarket brake and clutch levers, round fold away mirrors, Fly handlebars shortened slightly, 13t front sprocket 2009 Q-link Legacy 250 1982 Suzuki GS1100ES - "Jolene" |
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02-24-2021, 08:48 PM | #11 |
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Flower Mound Texas
Posts: 904
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I've seen used spark plugs spark ok off the bike and not work worth a crap after they're installed. I'm glad it worked.
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2021 Tao Tbr7 - "Lucille" Mods so far- Brozz swingarm, 21" front rim (Bridgestone Tw302 rear/Dunlop D606 front tires), Digital gauge cluster, pz30b pumper carb, after market hand guards, aftermarket brake and clutch levers, round fold away mirrors, Fly handlebars shortened slightly, 13t front sprocket 2009 Q-link Legacy 250 1982 Suzuki GS1100ES - "Jolene" |
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04-09-2021, 10:16 AM | #12 |
Join Date: Apr 2021
Posts: 9
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This happened to me Start running really shitty in stops I thought it was the carburetor I took it apart cleaned out everything put it back together try to start it same problem pulled the plug no gap I don't know what happened but a new plugin there she runs great check your plug
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07-25-2021, 02:11 AM | #14 |
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 30
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your intake manifold or air filter or the wire to the ignition coil
ignition coil is at the front right side. you can sometimes over time let the spark plug wire unscrew it self through use unfortunately and cause a low spark which might in some cases only allow a ok ish running condition at low speeds... you just cut the end strip it a bit and scre the spark plug cable back in and reinstall. also while its off test the coil and wire with a multimeter to check its condition. you put on lead of the multimeter in the plug end and one lead onto one terminal at a time at the back of the coil with the meter on ohms/resistance.. you should get 8k ohms total meaning the it can produce a sufficient spark up to the plug. check the intake manifold between the carb and engine for cracks. when you hammer on the throttle often the intake stretches a bit and will cause a lean condition at high rpm and not at low rpm lower gears lower speeds because at higher rpm and speeds it flexes a bit and sucks in the air. if the filter is clogged or restricted and or your using a exposed pod filter AHem .. you will need to make sure the amount of air going through the size of filter your using is enough for higher rpms and higher air demand. i seen a guy use a small flat stubby pod air filter and it was doing what your describing till he changed it to a nibb filter off amazon.
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2013 Apollo 250RX -Zong db36 233cc engine w/ titanium valves, ported exh. -WizeCo 11:1 piston -CRF230 Athena big bore cylinder -Powercore 788 Exhaust -HF K&N Pod Filter and intake -1/4 fuel lines and valves w/ plastic tank -HR handle bars and MX pully controls -CRF230 SHOWA fork -Oversized MX brakes & rotors -17T 46T (3.07 Gear ratio) JT Sprockets with a D.I.D gold MX chain -Keihin pwk30 30mm carburetor 115main/35pilot |
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07-25-2021, 02:12 AM | #15 |
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 30
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its most likly your spark plug cable is rusty or loos in the socket or your intake adapter is cracked though
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2013 Apollo 250RX -Zong db36 233cc engine w/ titanium valves, ported exh. -WizeCo 11:1 piston -CRF230 Athena big bore cylinder -Powercore 788 Exhaust -HF K&N Pod Filter and intake -1/4 fuel lines and valves w/ plastic tank -HR handle bars and MX pully controls -CRF230 SHOWA fork -Oversized MX brakes & rotors -17T 46T (3.07 Gear ratio) JT Sprockets with a D.I.D gold MX chain -Keihin pwk30 30mm carburetor 115main/35pilot |
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