Any Info? - 2010/2011 Z STAR - 110cc - Page 2

Greeny · 05-08-2016, 06:06 PM

Finally got this thing running, so I will share my findings.

The carb was not properly diagnosed, I just replaced it. It's very possible that it would be fine with a good cleaning. The ATV sat for a couple years with P.O, so I just felt better installing a new one. Point being, there's no evidence showing that the carb was a contributor to the no-start.

Now, onto the things I did right.

1. Re-wire: I removed the whole wiring harness, did continuity tests on every circuit, and replaced wires where necessary. It was a mess, so I started with that knowing it needed attention.

The last 3 things I did before I had a successful start-and-run:

2. Tested Stator: found several opens, so I replaced it.

3. Tested Ignition Coil: did not pass resistance tests, replaced.

4. Set Valves: both timing and clearances were way off, set exhaust and intake to .004

I would also recommend the switch setup I have in the wiring diagram earlier in this thread. It works flawlessly and eliminates several components from the electrics that are known to be troublesome.

Anyway, hope this helps anyone with similar issues!

Green.

BlackBike · 05-08-2016, 07:52 PM

Any way you look at it , you did something for cause and effect that benefited the out come. That's always a great feeling, good job. And you know It will benefit the reliability.

FLASHLIGHTBOY · 05-19-2016, 05:50 PM

Hello... have not ben on the site for awhile... but the fuse for the wiring should not be more than a 15 amp fuse... if you have a problem you will smoke everything... you look like you are using other switches for thing.. if you do not need the lights then ok.. the kill switch just goes to ground... but your key switch goes to ground when you turn it off.. there is many ways to by pass stuff with switches... most use the switches that come with the unit... you can buy the switches on EBAY or other places for $10-20.00 .. China , etc.. the big thing is to use a fuse to protect your stuff... the carbs can be cleaned and as long as they do not leak or over fill the carb bowl due to the float.. they last just about forever... use vasoline on all your plugs instead of die electric grease ( same stuff ) and enjoy th e ride..

Bandy · 11-18-2020, 07:51 PM

Frame looks like a Cheetah

05-08-2016, 07:52 PM	#17
BlackBike Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: George West, Texas Posts: 4,097	Any way you look at it , you did something for cause and effect that benefited the out come. That's always a great feeling, good job. And you know It will benefit the reliability. __________________ ***************************************** 2015 Bashan"Blaze" BS250GY-31 (DB-07K-250) GONE 2017 Suzuki V Strom 650 XT "We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid." ~Benjamin Franklin~
	0

05-19-2016, 05:50 PM	#18
FLASHLIGHTBOY Join Date: May 2009 Location: SASKATOON Posts: 1,161	zstar Hello... have not ben on the site for awhile... but the fuse for the wiring should not be more than a 15 amp fuse... if you have a problem you will smoke everything... you look like you are using other switches for thing.. if you do not need the lights then ok.. the kill switch just goes to ground... but your key switch goes to ground when you turn it off.. there is many ways to by pass stuff with switches... most use the switches that come with the unit... you can buy the switches on EBAY or other places for $10-20.00 .. China , etc.. the big thing is to use a fuse to protect your stuff... the carbs can be cleaned and as long as they do not leak or over fill the carb bowl due to the float.. they last just about forever... use vasoline on all your plugs instead of die electric grease ( same stuff ) and enjoy th e ride.. __________________ DEALER FOR ZSTAR & GIO PRODUCTS, TAOTAO ABIBABA ATV ETC
	0

05-08-2016, 06:06 PM	#16
Greeny Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Canada Posts: 10	Finally got this thing running, so I will share my findings. The carb was not properly diagnosed, I just replaced it. It's very possible that it would be fine with a good cleaning. The ATV sat for a couple years with P.O, so I just felt better installing a new one. Point being, there's no evidence showing that the carb was a contributor to the no-start. Now, onto the things I did right. 1. Re-wire: I removed the whole wiring harness, did continuity tests on every circuit, and replaced wires where necessary. It was a mess, so I started with that knowing it needed attention. The last 3 things I did before I had a successful start-and-run: 2. Tested Stator: found several opens, so I replaced it. 3. Tested Ignition Coil: did not pass resistance tests, replaced. 4. Set Valves: both timing and clearances were way off, set exhaust and intake to .004 I would also recommend the switch setup I have in the wiring diagram earlier in this thread. It works flawlessly and eliminates several components from the electrics that are known to be troublesome. Anyway, hope this helps anyone with similar issues! Green.
	1

11-18-2020, 07:51 PM	#19
Bandy Join Date: Jun 2020 Posts: 16	Frame looks like a Cheetah
	0