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Old 06-16-2020, 09:36 PM   #1
vtwinaddicted   vtwinaddicted is offline
 
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Doh! CG 230 cylinder head

Would a cg125 cylinder head work on my brozz 250?


 
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Old 06-17-2020, 02:19 AM   #2
franque   franque is offline
 
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The spacing for the cylinder studs should be different, I don't think it'll work. Where are you located?


 
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Old 06-17-2020, 02:57 AM   #3
NzBrakelathes   NzBrakelathes is offline
 
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No


 
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Old 06-17-2020, 07:51 AM   #4
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is online now
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Why a CG125 head? Why not buy the Brozz250 head?
https://shop.brozz250.com/eshopprod_...r_Assembly.htm
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Old 06-17-2020, 09:07 AM   #5
vtwinaddicted   vtwinaddicted is offline
 
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Pennsylvania


 
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Old 06-17-2020, 09:09 AM   #6
vtwinaddicted   vtwinaddicted is offline
 
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Combustion chamber size


 
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Old 06-17-2020, 11:54 AM   #7
franque   franque is offline
 
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That's what welding is for! If you had a 200, it would work, they changed the stud spacing for the 230.


 
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Old 06-17-2020, 02:04 PM   #8
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is online now
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Just mill the stock head down to increase the Compression Ratio.
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Old 06-20-2020, 07:00 PM   #9
Baskt_Case   Baskt_Case is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
Just mill the stock head down to increase the Compression Ratio.
2 local shops quoted me less than $50 just to mill one down. And the Brozz (and TT250) head appears to have the best factory ports compared to all the others.
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Old 06-20-2020, 08:04 PM   #10
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Ultra budget compression increase, remove the cylinder base gasket and seal with a semi-hardening gasket maker. Just make sure to not block the oil passage to the head. Then replace the head gasket with a TT250 single layer steel unit.
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Old 06-20-2020, 09:31 PM   #11
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I took measurements with a straight edge and feeler guages then used a $25 handheld belt sander from harbor freight to deck my head. Just gotta keep rotating it with very light pressure to avoid removing metal from the wrong areas.


 
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Old 06-22-2020, 06:10 PM   #12
CaesarVis   CaesarVis is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan View Post
Ultra budget compression increase, remove the cylinder base gasket and seal with a semi-hardening gasket maker. Just make sure to not block the oil passage to the head. Then replace the head gasket with a TT250 single layer steel unit.
Does that give the same results as shaving?


 
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Old 06-22-2020, 06:11 PM   #13
CaesarVis   CaesarVis is offline
 
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I took measurements with a straight edge and feeler guages then used a $25 handheld belt sander from harbor freight to deck my head. Just gotta keep rotating it with very light pressure to avoid removing metal from the wrong areas.
How much did you take off?


 
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Old 06-23-2020, 08:43 AM   #14
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is online now
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Quote:
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How much did you take off?
Removing 1mm or 040" will bump you to 10:1 CR. You can easily remove that with sand paper on a flat piece of steel or glass. Lots of elbow grease and rotating the head every so often to make sure you are removing it evenly. I've done a few. A bench top belt sander will make quick work of it. That's what i used back in the day to shave down outboard heads for racing.
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Old 06-24-2020, 02:43 AM   #15
CaesarVis   CaesarVis is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryHawk250 View Post
Removing 1mm or 040" will bump you to 10:1 CR. You can easily remove that with sand paper on a flat piece of steel or glass. Lots of elbow grease and rotating the head every so often to make sure you are removing it evenly. I've done a few. A bench top belt sander will make quick work of it. That's what i used back in the day to shave down outboard heads for racing.
How do you keep track of how much material needs to be removed and how much has been removed? That seems like it would be the trickiest part.


 
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