Really torn

[solarmike]

Ok, I have saved my money for three years lost it twice due to unexpected bills and or medical costs and now have the money saved up with extra to spare and I’m ready! Problem is I cant choose between the DLX 250 or the RXB 250L. I live at 3600 ft and riding up to 9,000 ft and the attraction to FI is very strong but, the suspension of the RXB seems far superior. Im an expert mountain biker and have had many 350 enduros in the past but, my main focus is exploring and adventure with occasional natural jumps. Is the carburetor on the RXB Going to give me trouble and will the DLX be able to keep up with me?

Im a teepee, no I’m a wigwam, no I’m a teepee, no Im a wigwam? My doctor says I’m too tense! Help

[franque]

Get the RXB, you'll have the proven reliability of the carburetor, and a much better bike over all.

[Baskt_Case]

If you've got the money, get the RXB. Far superior bike in my opinion. Real 2 lobe OHC versus single lobe pushrod. Cant easily modify the EFI, thats a big one. Way more engine performance options. Might take a minute to get your carb dialed in but it will be worth it. I know of an individual getting well in excess of 25HP (dyno) from his RXB and he's getting ready to compete in an AMA event with his Chinabike.

Again, just my opinion, but the payoff will be greater. To each their own as far as priorities, but I cant get passed that OHC motor. Option to put an 11:1 piston in it, hot cam, Henner Motorsport 2° or 4° offset key, Nibbi Carb, 93 octane, let it rip.

[JerryHawk250]

RXB

[Megadan]

Don't let the carb scare you off. The carbs used on these bikes are as simple as it gets and you can learn them quickly. The altitude changes shouldn't be enough for you to really notice for short exploration trips, especially if your jetting is set to be optimal somewhere in the middle of that altitude spread.

[culcune]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Don't let the carb scare you off. The carbs used on these bikes are as simple as it gets and you can learn them quickly. The altitude changes shouldn't be enough for you to really notice for short exploration trips, especially if your jetting is set to be optimal somewhere in the middle of that altitude spread.

With a few words, Megadan will be able to set up in the right direction on jetting--he is one of our carb gurus

[solarmike]

Ok, the general census is that I should go for the RXB. Guess I'll have to learn about carburetors and deal with it. I'm mechanically inclined and should be simple for me to learn. Thanks for opinions and helpful links. Going to the bank and put some cash in my account today. A couple other questions are when ordering the price says fully assembled but, has the choice to pay extra for the assembly so I a little confused. Also there is an option of buying a upgraded carburetor is it necessary? Do I need anything else like a better chain?

Thanks a bunch!

[RedCrowRides]

I find the present day " fear" of carburetors kinda funny, FI is relatively new ,and while i agree it is nice ,carbs have been around forever with millions and billions of miles laid down - plus, its not like carbs stopped improving after 1920 . There are tons of motorcycles and cars that have been running 10, 20, or more years on the original carb that has in some cases never seen any thing other than an air cleaner change and fuel filter change. I agree carbs need to be dialed in initially and this can seem daunting, but its really not hard nor particularly time consuming, and after that , it's pretty much good to go from there til whenever. Believe me, i am old and we really didnt spend all our time on the road or trail side dealing with broke down carbs - in fact, at least you DO have a chance of repairing a carb issue enough to get home , if an EFI unit fails ,you cant and aint gonna do much of diddly squat except go get a new one .


Here is my favorite example : Swap air filter, intake and exhaust on a carbed bike, you need 5 -$10 worth of jets to adjust.


Swap air filter, intake, and exhaust on an EFI bike, you need $250- $300 dollar ECU Tuner.

[solarmike]

Thanks RedCrowRide, I'm tired of starting issues from past bike, hoping electric start will rid me of that fear but, you're right I shouldn't fear the carb. Still wanting to know about my question of the assembly question it states $1999 fully assembled and then asks if I want to pay an extra $139 for assembly (?)

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by solarmike

Thanks RedCrowRide, I'm tired of starting issues from past bike, hoping electric start will rid me of that fear but, you're right I shouldn't fear the carb. Still wanting to know about my question of the assembly question it states $1999 fully assembled and then asks if I want to pay an extra $139 for assembly (?)

It likely ships with the bike mostly assembled and may require the installation of the handlebars and front wheel as well as some other basic setup stuff. That is how most of these bikes arrive. They likely offer to do that stuff for you before shipping it out to save you the hassel.

[franque]

It's not worth paying extra for the assembly, it's better to do it yourself, usually the quality/attention to detail of assembly is lacking.

[Kenstogie]

umm i prefer carbs because they are simple and simple is better imho.... plus you can adjust them easily

[solarmike]

Well I really wanted an RXB 250 but I’d have wait until mid July or later then I’ll be gone for the second half of July so realistically I wouldn’t be able to ride until August. This fell in my lap. $1900.

[Goob]

Originally Posted by solarmike

Thanks RedCrowRide, I'm tired of starting issues from past bike, hoping electric start will rid me of that fear but, you're right I shouldn't fear the carb. Still wanting to know about my question of the assembly question it states $1999 fully assembled and then asks if I want to pay an extra $139 for assembly (?)

I have the RXB150XL. I did not pay the extra and the only thing un-installed were the mirrors. They also included an MX number plastic if I wanted to delete the headlight. In my opinion the extra money, which is supposed to be for a hot test, is not worth the $$ because you will have to tune the carb for your altitude and go thru the bike for nut/bolt tightness and wiring anyway. I guess if I was inclined and had the $$ I would go for the head work they offer instead or save it to put a better carb on from the get-go (around $100).

Make sure you take the seat, all the plastics, and headlight assembly off and go thru where they ran the wire and how they packed it in behind the headlight. I found a couple of pinch points to re-route and organized the ball of wire behind the headlight with some zip-ties. The pinch points were where the wire ran to the taillights it was pinched between the seat and frame and the taillight plugs were routed to the wrong side of the wiring compartment under the seat. Also, on my bike the Hot starter wire was in contact with the skid plate. A short waiting to happen.

Otherwise, the quality of the bike and assembly was good. The only loose bolts I have encountered were the exhaust header nuts, and one of the kick-stand bolts was lost on a ride.

They were pretty responsive to my phone calls and e-mails. Not up to CSC customer service, but pretty good.

I had to do some jetting on the carb (a Mikuni VM26 flange mount) to get it running, but it is good now. Jets are available from Jetsrus.com and they have always arrived within 2 days. Main: N100.604 (M21) and Pilot: VM28/486 (M24). There are lots of good tuning manuals available on-line. The same principles apply to any carb. Idle & pilot jet screw adjustments 1st, pilot jet change if needed, needle clip adjustment if needed, then main jet if needed. Don't start with the Main, that is backward of every manual I have found.

I don't like this carb...just cheap...(it is not actually imported by the US Mikuni importer, so its origins are questionable) and am going to put a Mikuni VM26-606 on it soon. MUCH better quality and easier to tune, mainly because the pilot jet screw is readily accessible and you don't have to remove the bowl to change out the main jet (both good for altitude changes). The VM26-8074 may be a better application for the RXB250 because the carb is to the right on the bike and it has the idle and pilot screws on the right. For my RXB150 the carb is on the left and the VM26-606 has the screws on the left. Spigot mount makes either model easier to remove when needed than the flange mount type.

If you plan to plate your RXB250, then beware that it can't be plated in California and I have heard that Colorado is tough too. I live in Colorado, so am waiting until the DMV opens to find out. Get the MCO notarized by Orion. It is an extra $10, where the MCO is free and you just have to request on their website once you get the bike. Also, ask them for a bill of sale. This will help in plating, and, at least in Colorado, you probably need a bill of sale to get your OHV sticker for trails. I typed one up with all the info from the MCO and sent it to them via e-mail. They signed it and sent it back.

I also have a CSC TT250 that I use strictly for the street commuting. The RXB150 is for trail riding, so if I can't get plated it is OK. For sure, if I had the extra $500, and a way to transport the bike other than in my old Caravan, then I would have gotten the RXB250.

Ride On!