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Old 01-10-2020, 02:26 PM   #16
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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My guess is that those hoses and the device they're connected to is for emissions. Your choices are either delete the emissions system and plug the hose barbs on the tank or just reconnect the system.


X2 on straining the Evaporust, if you haven't already thrown it out. Paint strainers from the auto parts store through a funnel work really well. Let the Evaporust sit in the tank for a longer period.
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Old 01-10-2020, 10:08 PM   #17
durtyrice   durtyrice is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldangrind View Post
My guess is that those hoses and the device they're connected to is for emissions. Your choices are either delete the emissions system and plug the hose barbs on the tank or just reconnect the system.


X2 on straining the Evaporust, if you haven't already thrown it out. Paint strainers from the auto parts store through a funnel work really well. Let the Evaporust sit in the tank for a longer period.
Thank you for the reply.

For a temporary solution I cut off a small piece of hose x2, plugged it with a screw and capped off both nipples that way. However, I can't get my bike to run.

It runs briefly with the aid of starter fluid but then cuts out after two seconds which makes me think there's a fuel delivery problem. As it is right now, I only have a hose going from the petcock straight to my mikuni chinese knockoff carb. I have checked the battery and it's good - the only other thing I can think of is I have some hoses that are just dangling in the motorcycle (two of them from the emissions thing on the right side of the bike) Could these uncapped hoses be the reason why the bike doesn't run?!


 
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Old 01-11-2020, 06:44 AM   #18
franque   franque is offline
 
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Probably not. Did you clean the carb? If the carb is clean, did you verify the float bowl has fresh gas? Is the petcock on?

Even though it's for emissions, carbon canisters (what the hoses were connected to) usually function as tank vents, and can actually improve mileage slightly, I'd leave it connected.


 
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Old 01-11-2020, 02:36 PM   #19
durtyrice   durtyrice is offline
 
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Originally Posted by franque View Post
Probably not. Did you clean the carb? If the carb is clean, did you verify the float bowl has fresh gas? Is the petcock on?

Even though it's for emissions, carbon canisters (what the hoses were connected to) usually function as tank vents, and can actually improve mileage slightly, I'd leave it connected.
Thank you for your help.

I have a brand new mikuni v22 knock off carb that I did clean. The petcock is definitely on, and I see gas in my inline filter. The float bowl definitely has gas because I'm able to drain the gas from the bottom mikuni nipple. I think I've narrowed it down to perhaps a float bowl level issue? I'm not sure if I am capable of correcting the height.


 
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Old 01-11-2020, 06:11 PM   #20
durtyrice   durtyrice is offline
 
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Originally Posted by jeffrey View Post
Remove the float bowl and remove the pilot jet and clean it. The hole is real small and plugs up real easy. As for the two pipes on the bottom of your gas tank one is a drain for the sunk in spot around the gas cap and the other is the tank vent. You can slip a hose on one or the other and blow air though it to find out witch one will leak air with the gas cap closed. If you plug the tank vent the tank wont flow gas.
I'll try this out as well. Thank you.

Upon further inspection I think the reason why I can't get the motorcycle to start is because of a leak near the intake manifold. I bought a carb spinner and the home depot screws I got isn't exactly 100% flush where the carb spinner meets the intake manifold. Could this lead to the bike not starting at all?

When I try and start with the starter fluid, the motorcycle revs extremely high.. 8-9k rpm range.


 
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Old 01-12-2020, 02:25 PM   #21
durtyrice   durtyrice is offline
 
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Thank you all for your help - I really do appreciate it and will make sure to pay it forward once my bike is fixed. I don't plan to just ask for help and leave.

Today is my birthday! Fingers crossed I can find the right screws for today and go for a ride.


 
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Old 01-12-2020, 05:05 PM   #22
Bruces   Bruces is online now
 
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Originally Posted by durtyrice View Post
Thank you all for your help - I really do appreciate it and will make sure to pay it forward once my bike is fixed. I don't plan to just ask for help and leave.

Today is my birthday! Fingers crossed I can find the right screws for today and go for a ride.
You should have a better day today ,it’s really easy to get properly screwed on your birthday and it sounds like you are due !
Happy birthday !


 
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Old 01-13-2020, 08:13 AM   #23
wlfpck   wlfpck is offline
 
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Originally Posted by RedCrowRides View Post
- Whatever you do, do NOT buy / use those "tank sealers" one brand is called Kreem.

The idea is you piur it in the tank and it covers rust , fills holes, etc thereby fixing the inside of the tank and any rust issues. But what happens is that " may" happen initially but very quickly thereafter whatever tank liner you use, and i have seen them all, starts to discolor, crack, and debond from the tank and crumble into the bottom of the tank causing no end of problems.



Worst case scenario is you can buy a brand new Hellkat gastank which will fit your Model for $45 from partskit.com, but i think either franque or weldandgrinds rust removal methods will work given enough effort .
Haven't seen anything about Kreem. Not sure what material it is that it "fast sets". I will say that I agree with RedCrowRides in that if it doesn't "stick" then you'll get issues with clogged lines and clogged carb.

But... You could take a look at KBS Coatings, it seems like KBS is a moisture cure polyurethane. Kit comes with prep solution. I'd imagine if it is a moisture cure polyurethane, it would be extremely durable. I've used a similar product called Rust Bullet on bottom of cars and the moisture cure polyurethanes are extremely durable.

I have not used KBS coatings so I can't give any reviews on personal experience but some videos on things like their clear coat and such seem like their product is pretty good.
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Old 01-13-2020, 08:35 AM   #24
franque   franque is offline
 
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I'd try por 15.


 
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Old 01-13-2020, 12:51 PM   #25
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by franque View Post
Even though it's for emissions, carbon canisters (what the hoses were connected to) usually function as tank vents, and can actually improve mileage slightly, I'd leave it connected.
Agreed. Your cap might not have a vent, so the hoses would need to be reattached. If the bike will start with the cap removed, the hoses are the culprit. Happy Birthday!
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Old 01-13-2020, 05:23 PM   #26
durtyrice   durtyrice is offline
 
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Okay, I have probably dumped some 20+ hours of research, and another 10+ hours of tinkering just for this damn Mikuni Carb. I can finally get the bike to run, but it idles extremely high (7-8k rpm) This makes me think that there's an air leak somewhere (I'm focusing on carb to intake, or intake to engine leak.. I am at my wit's end here. ='(


 
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