CSC TT250 Aux 1 & Aux 2

Goob · 01-05-2020, 05:35 PM

Hello,

Everybody may know this, but the CSC Aux switch is single pole power source with two (A1 & A2) normally open separately switched contacts. You can only use one auxiliary accessory at a time. When you switch from A1 to A2, then A1 turns off and vice-versa. I had e-mail communications with CSC that verified this is the operation.

I found this out when I wanted to wire aux lighting to A1 and the previous owner had already used A2 for heated grips. He didn't want to wire the grips (which have their own switch) directly to the battery in case he forgot to shutoff the grips, and the Aux switch power shuts off with the ignition preventing battery drain.

If I had used these switches I would have to choose between heated grips and lights. Not a great choice at night when it is cold.

After reaching this dead end, I decided it would be better to have the aux lights on all of the time for added daytime visibility, rather than switched. So, I ended up wiring my lights by abandoning the little 5W "running light" in the headlight nacelle and using that wiring as my power source.

Goob

franque · 01-05-2020, 06:48 PM

What are your aux lights drawing? It is a fused source? It might be a good idea to add a relay, just in case.

Goob · 01-06-2020, 01:13 PM

Franque,

They are 20W each, so 1.66A.

I replaced the 35/35W halogen headlight with an 18/18W LED and eliminated the 5W "running light", so my draw is nearly the same as stock.

Stock: 70W (on High) + 5W running light = 75W or 6.25A

Modified: 36W + 40W (both spots) = 76W or 6.33A

I don't think an isolation relay is needed for .08A extra draw.

If someone wanted to do the same thing, but go UNDER the stock draw, then there are LED headlights that are 15W with the same Lumen output. I ordered one of those too, but the 18W one came in first, so I used that one and saved the other. I may swap it out sometime just because I have it.

Thanks for your input.

Goob

franque · 01-06-2020, 01:58 PM

Ah, I thought you were saying that the aux lights were running through a 5w circuit, that's why I asked. I don't think normally both filaments are activated when high beams are on, that's usually only when there's a flash to pass feature, so, even if both lights share a power wire (running and high/low), you're looking at 58w on a 40w circuit, not 75.

Normally the high and low beams activate separately, so the rating doesn't 'add up' per se.

You could check the health of the circuit (and ability to flow the requested current) by seeing if you get a voltage drop at the circuit when running everything, if so, you're dropping voltage because the wiring is increasing resistance and heating up. That's when you (eventually) get fires, eventually, because as the copper heat cycles from drawing too much current, it starts to harden/oxidize. Sometimes the wire just breaks instead.

I say all this because normally, when wiring in aux lights on a motorcycle, you always relay the wiring for them, not only because the wiring isn't usually designed to handle the extra load (for the Japanese, it's because of weight concerns, for the Chinese, I'm sure it is because they only use one size for one color of wiring, and probably as small as possible so that it's as cheap as possible). Even Goldwings get extra relays added on them so that it keeps a burden off of the electrical system -- I know, I've done a few working at Honda motorcycle dealerships.

I know about the poor state of Chinese wiring because I have a Chinese bike, and the wiring for the starter was just a 20ga wire to supply the positive terminal. It was just waiting to die; I hope this is helpful, I can sketch out how to wire them out if you're interested.

I just found this: https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm, the numbers you should look at are for power transmission. There's a handy calculator if you scroll down, so you can get an idea how much the load capacity should be (based on current drop).

Goob · 01-07-2020, 09:36 AM

I forgot to mention that I only am using the brights as a "flash the a-holes" feature, so just run all the time with low beam and spots. The TT250 has a flash button on the left controls, so easy to do.

Still, not worried about using an isolation relay.

01-05-2020, 05:35 PM	#1
Goob Join Date: Nov 2019 Posts: 353	CSC TT250 Aux 1 & Aux 2 Hello, Everybody may know this, but the CSC Aux switch is single pole power source with two (A1 & A2) normally open separately switched contacts. You can only use one auxiliary accessory at a time. When you switch from A1 to A2, then A1 turns off and vice-versa. I had e-mail communications with CSC that verified this is the operation. I found this out when I wanted to wire aux lighting to A1 and the previous owner had already used A2 for heated grips. He didn't want to wire the grips (which have their own switch) directly to the battery in case he forgot to shutoff the grips, and the Aux switch power shuts off with the ignition preventing battery drain. If I had used these switches I would have to choose between heated grips and lights. Not a great choice at night when it is cold. After reaching this dead end, I decided it would be better to have the aux lights on all of the time for added daytime visibility, rather than switched. So, I ended up wiring my lights by abandoning the little 5W "running light" in the headlight nacelle and using that wiring as my power source. Goob
	0

01-06-2020, 01:13 PM	#3
Goob Join Date: Nov 2019 Posts: 353	Franque Franque, They are 20W each, so 1.66A. I replaced the 35/35W halogen headlight with an 18/18W LED and eliminated the 5W "running light", so my draw is nearly the same as stock. Stock: 70W (on High) + 5W running light = 75W or 6.25A Modified: 36W + 40W (both spots) = 76W or 6.33A I don't think an isolation relay is needed for .08A extra draw. If someone wanted to do the same thing, but go UNDER the stock draw, then there are LED headlights that are 15W with the same Lumen output. I ordered one of those too, but the 18W one came in first, so I used that one and saved the other. I may swap it out sometime just because I have it. Thanks for your input. Goob
	0

01-06-2020, 01:58 PM	#4
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	Ah, I thought you were saying that the aux lights were running through a 5w circuit, that's why I asked. I don't think normally both filaments are activated when high beams are on, that's usually only when there's a flash to pass feature, so, even if both lights share a power wire (running and high/low), you're looking at 58w on a 40w circuit, not 75. Normally the high and low beams activate separately, so the rating doesn't 'add up' per se. You could check the health of the circuit (and ability to flow the requested current) by seeing if you get a voltage drop at the circuit when running everything, if so, you're dropping voltage because the wiring is increasing resistance and heating up. That's when you (eventually) get fires, eventually, because as the copper heat cycles from drawing too much current, it starts to harden/oxidize. Sometimes the wire just breaks instead. I say all this because normally, when wiring in aux lights on a motorcycle, you always relay the wiring for them, not only because the wiring isn't usually designed to handle the extra load (for the Japanese, it's because of weight concerns, for the Chinese, I'm sure it is because they only use one size for one color of wiring, and probably as small as possible so that it's as cheap as possible). Even Goldwings get extra relays added on them so that it keeps a burden off of the electrical system -- I know, I've done a few working at Honda motorcycle dealerships. I know about the poor state of Chinese wiring because I have a Chinese bike, and the wiring for the starter was just a 20ga wire to supply the positive terminal. It was just waiting to die; I hope this is helpful, I can sketch out how to wire them out if you're interested. I just found this: https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm, the numbers you should look at are for power transmission. There's a handy calculator if you scroll down, so you can get an idea how much the load capacity should be (based on current drop). Last edited by franque; 01-06-2020 at 02:33 PM.
	0

01-07-2020, 09:36 AM	#5
Goob Join Date: Nov 2019 Posts: 353	Forgot to mention I forgot to mention that I only am using the brights as a "flash the a-holes" feature, so just run all the time with low beam and spots. The TT250 has a flash button on the left controls, so easy to do. Still, not worried about using an isolation relay.
	0

01-05-2020, 06:48 PM	#2
franque Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea Posts: 1,481	What are your aux lights drawing? It is a fused source? It might be a good idea to add a relay, just in case.
	0