Increasing oil level - Page 2

pete · 10-10-2018, 12:55 AM

if theres no water or fuel in the oil...
the level is between the makes...
ride it the sight glass and dip stick
make it look a lot worse than it is...

you would have something to worry
about if the level was droping...

..

AresROC · 10-10-2018, 07:06 PM

Engine is air cooled.

Carb is stock Keihin "Technology From Japan" PZ30/PD

Oil level went from Low mark to way above High mark on sight glass in 1 ride.

Two days, fuel cock closed, dry carb, and no oil level increase.

ChrisWNY · 10-10-2018, 07:57 PM

Best case scenario is a poorly adjusted or defective carb allowing too much gas into the engine...this would cause gas to flow down the cylinder walls and collect in the oil reservoir, raising your oil level gradually (only when the engine is running...which seems to be happening in your case). Worst case is a crack or gasket leak in the intake area of the engine.

Replace the carb with a Mikuni VM26 and see if that solves your problem. A new VM26 will run you $40 or so and can be found on Amazon. Good first option to narrow down your issue without breaking the bank or taking up hours of your time, or weeks to receive a new carb. If you still see the same problem with a new carb, then I would definitely start to suspect the engine itself as the issue.

Leaving the petcock on should not cause the issue you're having - there's nothing pulling the fuel through the jets in the carburetor when the engine isn't running, so unless there's another problem (or a leak) in your carb, an open petcock while the engine is off shouldn't flood the engine or allow fuel to run down into your oil. I leave mine on all the time and there's never an extra drop of fuel inside the carb. Engine starts reliably every time.

For those washing your "CHonda's" regularly...avoid pressure washers. A garden hose and some car wash soap should be all you need. Pressure washers can cause water to penetrate through seals and can destroy wires, hoses, and anything that is delicate around the engine. Don't spray water into the airbox area as this may throw water into your carb and cause some serious issues down the road. If you must use a pressure washer, avoid spraying anywhere near the middle of the bike, the engine, or inside the frame - limit it to wheels/chain area only.

AresROC · 10-18-2018, 07:32 PM

It's been a week of no riding, fuel cock on, and no rising oil level.

I turned over the engine a few times, let it idle a bit.

Don't think it's a carb issue at this point. I have to ride it a bit to find out.

A friend told me the correct way to check oil level is to crank the engine a few times, then check the level. Is that how most check their oil level? I just don't see how oil can go from low to higher than high.

wheel spinner · 10-19-2018, 07:14 AM

Think of what could be making the oil level higher... you have no radiator.. so that eliminates antifreeze and water... so what else do we have here??? oil and gas... you stated you put the correct amount of oil in... ok.. just on a note here... do not drain a small part of the oil because if gas is getting in the oil... you will have a diluted amount of oil and more gas then.. Boom.. or mess you motor up... you should never smell gas in your oil.. !!!

when you ride the bike?? does it ride good??

I never blame carbs on everything that happens to any motor.. but like I said previously.. I believe you have a float adjustment problem here... do you have a spare carb?? put it on and see what happens... if it does the same thing you have a gasket problem or a crack... simple as that..

AresROC · 11-30-2018, 07:10 PM

So I left the fuel petcock on for several weeks, and observed the oil level regularly (without riding). No increase, still at the low line.

I added some new oil to bring the oil level to the middle level. Took the carb apart, put in new main jet (from Keihin 105 to 115).

Then I took the bike out for a ride to test top speed of new jet. Came back after the short ride, and noticed much higher oil level.

A week later I took the bike out for hours of desert ride, including 55mph runs on the road (the top speed I can get currently with stock front 17, rear 46 sprockets). Oil level stayed above high without much increase.

So, I will continue to ride the bike as is, and be one of the people who don't break-in their engine gently, and see what happens.

I will change oil to Rotella T4 soon and report back if the bike behaves differently...

Possible causes for oil level increase:

Blow-by passing piston ring
Crack cylinder head
Crack from carb to intake (x)
Leaky petcock (x)
Bad carb float (x)

timcosby · 11-30-2018, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AresROC

So I left the fuel petcock on for several weeks, and observed the oil level regularly (without riding). No increase, still at the low line.

I added some new oil to bring the oil level to the middle level. Took the carb apart, put in new main jet (from Keihin 105 to 115).

Then I took the bike out for a ride to test top speed of new jet. Came back after the short ride, and noticed much higher oil level.

A week later I took the bike out for hours of desert ride, including 55mph runs on the road (the top speed I can get currently with stock front 17, rear 46 sprockets). Oil level stayed above high without much increase.

So, I will continue to ride the bike as is, and be one of the people who don't break-in their engine gently, and see what happens.

I will change oil to Rotella T4 soon and report back if the bike behaves differently...

Possible causes for oil level increase:

Blow-by passing piston ring
Crack cylinder head
Crack from carb to intake (x)
Leaky petcock (x)
Bad carb float (x)

blow by yuo will have less oil. crack in cyl head you will have less oil. crack in intake no effect on oil. leaky petcock??? i think it has an over flow and would come out on the ground. if your only at 55 with 17/46 you got something bad going on with the carb. i got 17/50 and 64 is about max.

ChipToothy · 11-30-2018, 10:35 PM

With the bike sitting level without being ran that day stand it up straight and glance down at the window, whatever the oil level is at that moment is what you have cold. Ride it for 30-60 minutes then hop off, wait 5 minutes for it to settle and check it the same way, that's what you have for hot level. Every car I ever owned had a cold mark and a separate hot mark on the dipstick. As long as your hot level is within the safe ranges on your glass you're good to go. Temperature changes things a lot.

You could always just do an oil change and start over. Replace the old oil by adding only and exactly 1 quart. If you need to add a little more then just add 1/2 a cups worth at a time and see each time where that puts you cold and hot.

NzBrakelathes · 11-30-2018, 10:48 PM

If the carb/float was leaking it will over flow from the carb as there is a drain.
I kinda wonder if you actually don't have an issue but are seeing the normal warm/hot oil wrong or seeing the sight glass as if it a lot more yet only a little hot oil expansion?

Maybe photos would be better and of course check oil with bike standing upright and not on the stand. cold and normal pic and compare to high oil level.

You wont be getting loads of fuel via blow by - then your motor would run very poorly and smoke I would think, that would be some serious wear in the motor.

Just my thoughts based on general mechanical knowledge.

AresROC · 06-26-2019, 01:33 PM

Changed oil to Rotella T4 --- And --- No more increasing oil level!

Took the bike for a long ride to Pioneer Saloon at Good Springs, Nevada. Used ~3/4 of the tank of gas.

Possible causes for oil level increase:

Oil - ???
Blow-by passing piston ring (x)
Crack cylinder head (x)
Crack from carb to intake (x)
Leaky petcock (x)
Bad carb float (x)

**JerryHawk250** · 06-26-2019, 02:18 PM

Maybe you got a hold of some experimental self rejuvenating oil that multiplied as it got hot.

lol Glad to see it worked out for you.

Megadan · 06-26-2019, 02:29 PM

Oil trapped in areas of the motor and transmission. Honda in particular states the way to check the oil level on their new bikes is to run it for 3-5 minutes, shut it off, let it sit for a 2-3 minutes, and then check it. If the oil is within the high and low marks on the sight glass after this procedure they consider that the proper oil level. Let the bike sit for a couple of days and check it without running the motor the level is almost always too high.

This is the same reason the oil capacity for these motors is stated at 1.5(ish) quarts, but most oil changes barely take 1, or a hair over 1.

duck9191 · 06-27-2019, 09:08 AM

Hot and cold levels will never be the same, and like Dan said, the longer it sits the more oil will collect in the sump. If you level is coming up that much on fuel alone it should be the consistency of water and reak of gas just not a hint.

I've had my storm on a motorcycle jack the last week with the front wheel off, the the oil level went from its just below high to a full sight glass as all the oil slow seeps to the sump.

10-10-2018, 12:55 AM	#16
pete Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: ChCh , NZ Posts: 2,262	if theres no water or fuel in the oil... the level is between the makes... ride it the sight glass and dip stick make it look a lot worse than it is... you would have something to worry about if the level was droping... .. __________________ 09 XT660R ... 06 TTR250 ... 80 Montesa H6 125 Enduro... 77 Montesa Cota 348 MRR "Malcom Rathnell Replica"... Current resto projects.. 81 Honda CT110... 80 Kawasaki KL250A1... 11 Husaburg TE125 enduro... "sold" along with another 31... Lifan 125 Pitbike.. "stolen" ... KIWI BIKER FORUM...... http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/content.php All the best offroad rides in NZ... http://www.remotemoto.com/ E-mail... xtpete1@gmail.com
	0

10-10-2018, 07:06 PM	#17
AresROC Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 193	Engine is air cooled. Carb is stock Keihin "Technology From Japan" PZ30/PD Oil level went from Low mark to way above High mark on sight glass in 1 ride. Two days, fuel cock closed, dry carb, and no oil level increase. __________________ BaShan BSR 250 DB-41H 2018 Red BS250GY-18D JFG Racing Exhaust . Adjustable Shock 320mm . Brozz Digital Gauge . Renthal Fat Bar . 428 17x46 Sprocket . Fender Eliminator . Wheel Truing . Fuel Tank Repair . Keihin PZ30 Main-115 Pilot-38 Needle-1Washer Fuel Mixture-1/2 BSR Chronicles - "Project leads to more projects!" Yamaha WR250R Suzuki GSX-R 600
	1

10-10-2018, 07:57 PM	#18
ChrisWNY Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 212	Best case scenario is a poorly adjusted or defective carb allowing too much gas into the engine...this would cause gas to flow down the cylinder walls and collect in the oil reservoir, raising your oil level gradually (only when the engine is running...which seems to be happening in your case). Worst case is a crack or gasket leak in the intake area of the engine. Replace the carb with a Mikuni VM26 and see if that solves your problem. A new VM26 will run you $40 or so and can be found on Amazon. Good first option to narrow down your issue without breaking the bank or taking up hours of your time, or weeks to receive a new carb. If you still see the same problem with a new carb, then I would definitely start to suspect the engine itself as the issue. Leaving the petcock on should not cause the issue you're having - there's nothing pulling the fuel through the jets in the carburetor when the engine isn't running, so unless there's another problem (or a leak) in your carb, an open petcock while the engine is off shouldn't flood the engine or allow fuel to run down into your oil. I leave mine on all the time and there's never an extra drop of fuel inside the carb. Engine starts reliably every time. For those washing your "CHonda's" regularly...avoid pressure washers. A garden hose and some car wash soap should be all you need. Pressure washers can cause water to penetrate through seals and can destroy wires, hoses, and anything that is delicate around the engine. Don't spray water into the airbox area as this may throw water into your carb and cause some serious issues down the road. If you must use a pressure washer, avoid spraying anywhere near the middle of the bike, the engine, or inside the frame - limit it to wheels/chain area only. __________________ 2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks
	2

10-18-2018, 07:32 PM	#19
AresROC Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 193	It's been a week of no riding, fuel cock on, and no rising oil level. I turned over the engine a few times, let it idle a bit. Don't think it's a carb issue at this point. I have to ride it a bit to find out. A friend told me the correct way to check oil level is to crank the engine a few times, then check the level. Is that how most check their oil level? I just don't see how oil can go from low to higher than high. __________________ BaShan BSR 250 DB-41H 2018 Red BS250GY-18D JFG Racing Exhaust . Adjustable Shock 320mm . Brozz Digital Gauge . Renthal Fat Bar . 428 17x46 Sprocket . Fender Eliminator . Wheel Truing . Fuel Tank Repair . Keihin PZ30 Main-115 Pilot-38 Needle-1Washer Fuel Mixture-1/2 BSR Chronicles - "Project leads to more projects!" Yamaha WR250R Suzuki GSX-R 600
	0

10-19-2018, 07:14 AM	#20
wheel spinner Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Suffolk Va. Posts: 146	Think of what could be making the oil level higher... you have no radiator.. so that eliminates antifreeze and water... so what else do we have here??? oil and gas... you stated you put the correct amount of oil in... ok.. just on a note here... do not drain a small part of the oil because if gas is getting in the oil... you will have a diluted amount of oil and more gas then.. Boom.. or mess you motor up... you should never smell gas in your oil.. !!! when you ride the bike?? does it ride good?? I never blame carbs on everything that happens to any motor.. but like I said previously.. I believe you have a float adjustment problem here... do you have a spare carb?? put it on and see what happens... if it does the same thing you have a gasket problem or a crack... simple as that.. __________________ 2006 Roketa DB-07-200 Dual Sport 2007 Monte Carlo SS 5.3 2010 Challenger Hemi 5.7 2004 Isuzu Rodeo 1998 Kia Sportage 4x4 2004 Toyota Tundra 2016 Ford Escape Guitars 1970 Gibson SG mint Condition 2005 Epiphone white Custom SG Les Paul L/New Fender Banjo New Condition BC Rich Bitch - Like New\ 3 Jay Turser SG Good Condition Amps Marshall vs100 Good Condition Acoustic 261 very good condition Boss GT-6 Pedal effects Like New
	1

11-30-2018, 07:10 PM	#21
AresROC Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 193	Update So I left the fuel petcock on for several weeks, and observed the oil level regularly (without riding). No increase, still at the low line. I added some new oil to bring the oil level to the middle level. Took the carb apart, put in new main jet (from Keihin 105 to 115). Then I took the bike out for a ride to test top speed of new jet. Came back after the short ride, and noticed much higher oil level. A week later I took the bike out for hours of desert ride, including 55mph runs on the road (the top speed I can get currently with stock front 17, rear 46 sprockets). Oil level stayed above high without much increase. So, I will continue to ride the bike as is, and be one of the people who don't break-in their engine gently, and see what happens. I will change oil to Rotella T4 soon and report back if the bike behaves differently... Possible causes for oil level increase: Blow-by passing piston ring Crack cylinder head Crack from carb to intake (x) Leaky petcock (x) Bad carb float (x) __________________ BaShan BSR 250 DB-41H 2018 Red BS250GY-18D JFG Racing Exhaust . Adjustable Shock 320mm . Brozz Digital Gauge . Renthal Fat Bar . 428 17x46 Sprocket . Fender Eliminator . Wheel Truing . Fuel Tank Repair . Keihin PZ30 Main-115 Pilot-38 Needle-1Washer Fuel Mixture-1/2 BSR Chronicles - "Project leads to more projects!" Yamaha WR250R Suzuki GSX-R 600
	0

11-30-2018, 10:35 PM	#23
ChipToothy Join Date: Apr 2018 Posts: 819	With the bike sitting level without being ran that day stand it up straight and glance down at the window, whatever the oil level is at that moment is what you have cold. Ride it for 30-60 minutes then hop off, wait 5 minutes for it to settle and check it the same way, that's what you have for hot level. Every car I ever owned had a cold mark and a separate hot mark on the dipstick. As long as your hot level is within the safe ranges on your glass you're good to go. Temperature changes things a lot. You could always just do an oil change and start over. Replace the old oil by adding only and exactly 1 quart. If you need to add a little more then just add 1/2 a cups worth at a time and see each time where that puts you cold and hot.
	2

11-30-2018, 10:48 PM	#24
NzBrakelathes Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Hell Posts: 2,408	If the carb/float was leaking it will over flow from the carb as there is a drain. I kinda wonder if you actually don't have an issue but are seeing the normal warm/hot oil wrong or seeing the sight glass as if it a lot more yet only a little hot oil expansion? Maybe photos would be better and of course check oil with bike standing upright and not on the stand. cold and normal pic and compare to high oil level. You wont be getting loads of fuel via blow by - then your motor would run very poorly and smoke I would think, that would be some serious wear in the motor. Just my thoughts based on general mechanical knowledge.
	3

06-26-2019, 02:18 PM	#26
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,585	Maybe you got a hold of some experimental self rejuvenating oil that multiplied as it got hot. lol Glad to see it worked out for you. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold) 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel Last edited by JerryHawk250; 06-27-2019 at 10:44 AM.
	0

06-26-2019, 02:29 PM	#27
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,053	Oil trapped in areas of the motor and transmission. Honda in particular states the way to check the oil level on their new bikes is to run it for 3-5 minutes, shut it off, let it sit for a 2-3 minutes, and then check it. If the oil is within the high and low marks on the sight glass after this procedure they consider that the proper oil level. Let the bike sit for a couple of days and check it without running the motor the level is almost always too high. This is the same reason the oil capacity for these motors is stated at 1.5(ish) quarts, but most oil changes barely take 1, or a hair over 1. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	2

06-27-2019, 09:08 AM	#28
duck9191 Join Date: May 2019 Location: Port Huron, Michigan Posts: 637	Hot and cold levels will never be the same, and like Dan said, the longer it sits the more oil will collect in the sump. If you level is coming up that much on fuel alone it should be the consistency of water and reak of gas just not a hint. I've had my storm on a motorcycle jack the last week with the front wheel off, the the oil level went from its just below high to a full sight glass as all the oil slow seeps to the sump. __________________ 2020 Triumph Tiger 900 rally. 2018 Bashan Storm 250. pz30b, digital cluster + gear indicator, unifilter and car customs full exhaust. 2019 Taotao 110b boulder atv. The "arm breaker" lol 2007 Honda VTX 1300R. 1974 Suzuki tm125, work in progress 2001 Suzuki Drz 400s.
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