Decking the head and port tips? - Page 2

**JerryHawk250** · 08-30-2018, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tashka

Do you think i will have any issues with overheating if I increase the compression and don't add oil coolers.

You might if you plan on running it hard. I think you said in your other tread that you take it out to the track. These motors are basically CG125 with 229cc big bore kits. Stock from the factory they can overheat if beat on or just sitting there idling at high rpm's due to lean factory carb settings.
Personally I would increase compression without a oil cooler. There are a few other members on here that can confirm the benefits of adding an oil cooler. Especially if you live where you have extreme heat like I do. The proof is in oil when I change it. Going from black nasty oil at 500 mile to dark brown oil that you can see through at 1000 mile oil changes. Just sayin.

Tashka · 08-30-2018, 10:48 AM

I use synthetic motorcycle oil, its more expensive, but it keeps its color and consistency longer, the conventional oil went extremely black for me pretty fast. I pretty much constantly abuse the hawk. On and off the track. I do lots of city driving.

When I first got the hawk, the throttle was not sitting right from previous owner, and was stuck in WOT. I didn't know, and this being my first motorcycle, was oblivious it wasn't supposed to idle so high(or loud.) and during "warm up" the header turned a cherry red and the exhaust cover caught fire on the stock muffler....

I figured out and solved thst issue. Hawk engine has run like a champ since that. I've put the clone mikuni on.

What would be some symptoms of overheating an air cooled engine? I am certain an oil cooler would run better, But I'm thinking i might not want one due to issues if I wiped out(especially off-road in the middle of no where, I ride my hawk out there) And because I'd like to save as much weight as possible, especially since I plan on racing. The hawk isn't a feather, but she isn't heavy whatsoever.

Tashka · 08-30-2018, 10:50 AM

And aftermarket exhaust. I'm in the middle of Texas. I've been riding every day. 95-105 has been pretty normal for me between working outside and riding my hawk.

ChrisWNY · 08-30-2018, 10:58 AM

Synthetic motorcycle oil is the way to go after the engine has gone through break-in (500 miles and up, synthetic should be the staple). It'll run your engine as much as 10-20°F cooler than conventional "SAE" oil. Synthetics lubricate better, run at more consistent viscosity at low and higher temps, and are less prone to oil sludge problems. Your oil change intervals can also be doubled compared to how often you'd change conventional oil. Overall the cost of synthetic oil isn't bad considering how long many extra miles you can get out of it.

Ariel Red Hunter · 08-30-2018, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tashka

I use synthetic motorcycle oil, its more expensive, but it keeps its color and consistency longer, the conventional oil went extremely black for me pretty fast. I pretty much constantly abuse the hawk. On and off the track. I do lots of city driving.

When I first got the hawk, the throttle was not sitting right from previous owner, and was stuck in WOT. I didn't know, and this being my first motorcycle, was oblivious it wasn't supposed to idle so high(or loud.) and during "warm up" the header turned a cherry red and the exhaust cover caught fire on the stock muffler....

I figured out and solved thst issue. Hawk engine has run like a champ since that. I've put the clone mikuni on.

What would be some symptoms of overheating an air cooled engine? I am certain an oil cooler would run better, But I'm thinking i might not want one due to issues if I wiped out(especially off-road in the middle of no where, I ride my hawk out there) And because I'd like to save as much weight as possible, especially since I plan on racing. The hawk isn't a feather, but she isn't heavy whatsoever.

High oil temperatures are far more likely at sustained near maximum highway speeds. A dirt bike with constant throttle changes is unlikely to cause overheating unless the fuel mixture is on the lean side. If anything, slightly rich is ideal...ARH

Tashka · 08-31-2018, 07:11 PM

Any tips for taking off the valve springs and the valves? i need a special tool don't i?

Tashka · 08-31-2018, 07:12 PM

I'm about to go pick up sand paper and a caliper.

Weldangrind · 09-01-2018, 12:47 PM

This type works for me: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Sizes-Val...sAAOSwN6JY~5-I

ben2go · 09-01-2018, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisWNY

Synthetic motorcycle oil is the way to go after the engine has gone through break-in (500 miles and up, synthetic should be the staple). It'll run your engine as much as 10-20°F cooler than conventional "SAE" oil. Synthetics lubricate better, run at more consistent viscosity at low and higher temps, and are less prone to oil sludge problems. Your oil change intervals can also be doubled compared to how often you'd change conventional oil. Overall the cost of synthetic oil isn't bad considering how long many extra miles you can get out of it.

I've tried synthetic oils. They burn off quick. My CB500X goes through a quart over 3000 miles. It has 7500-mile oil change intervals. I went back to good old Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil and haven't burnt a drop. I still change the oil and filter every 3000 miles. My other seven bikes burn off syntetic as well. They to get the good old Rotella T diesel oil and don't burn it.

Gh426 · 09-02-2018, 03:00 PM

Prevent knock by; Higher octane fuel, or octane boost or mixing in oil M.M.? Running richer fuel 2 air mixture
Cooler plug? retarded timing, increased airflow around the engine, ie sandblast that black shit off of the cooling fins?, not running wide open throttle continuously.
H2O/alky injection, mini oil cooler mounted high, ie crash proof, Hell in cold climates it could help heat the driver. Thoughts, conerns, comments or questions?

Anybody here own a diesel engine? 20 seconds after starting after an oil change the oil goes coal black due 2 13+ compression ratios. I've always read that the main reason to change motorcycle oil frequently is because of the wet transmission gears shredding the microscopic hairs of the oil. I think it's more mental Psych the color of the oil. But those gear teeth shredding the oil, wow!

Azhule · 09-02-2018, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go

I've tried synthetic oils. They burn off quick. My CB500X goes through a quart over 3000 miles. It has 7500-mile oil change intervals. I went back to good old Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil and haven't burnt a drop. I still change the oil and filter every 3000 miles. My other seven bikes burn off syntetic as well. They to get the good old Rotella T diesel oil and don't burn it.

Loose/out of spec piston ring tolerance? Faulty emissions components?

Never had a problem myself (Synthetic Oil 4 Life)

I must be using all my good luck on synthetic oils working in my engines/transmissions... maybe I should buy conventional oil and some lotto tix instead

**JerryHawk250** · 09-02-2018, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azhule

Loose/out of spec piston ring tolerance? Faulty emissions components?

Never had a problem myself (Synthetic Oil 4 Life)

I must be using all my good luck on synthetic oils working in my engines/transmissions... maybe I should buy conventional oil and some lotto tix instead

All I use is synthetic oil. Only time I used conventional oil was during the break in period.

ben2go · 09-02-2018, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azhule

Loose/out of spec piston ring tolerance? Faulty emissions components?

Never had a problem myself (Synthetic Oil 4 Life)

I must be using all my good luck on synthetic oils working in my engines/transmissions... maybe I should buy conventional oil and some lotto tix instead

Brand new bike, 0 miles. I broke it in on the factory oil. Then rode it to the first oil change. Switched to syn and burnt oil. My other bikes checked out on compression tests. I keep an eye on them as they are getting a bit old.

Tashka · 09-03-2018, 06:19 AM

I shaved off 1mm aswell as installing a thinner head gasket i got from csc. The tt250 head gasket is about half a mm shorter thsn the stock gasket that was on the hawk. But it had a slight ridge, its probbaly about .25mm when compressed.

I'm not sure the compression ratio now, but it runs great! I didn't do as aggressive porting as I was going to, but smoothed out the initial ridge in the intake, and took a decent bit of material from the exhaust. I probably could have gone wider, But since it's my first time porting i didnt want to go too crazy.

I focused on the ridges right under the valve seat and removed a decent bit from the bump where the valve guide goes, especially at the corners on the exhaust. would have spent more time, but since it's my daily transport....

I might do some more intense porting In the future if I decide i want some more performance parts in the engine. I'll post some pictures tomorrow of tsking it apart

I've noticed a nice increase in torque throughout the engine range. I can get the front wheel to come up in third gear with just the throttle. I couldnt get it to do that before! maybe if I popped the clutch and really pulled on the bars. I'm running 15/44 sprockets. The jetting is a little off now, but ill work on that.

**JerryHawk250** · 09-03-2018, 12:04 PM

What? No pictures? We like to see what you have done porting wise.

08-30-2018, 10:58 AM	#19
ChrisWNY Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 212	Synthetic motorcycle oil is the way to go after the engine has gone through break-in (500 miles and up, synthetic should be the staple). It'll run your engine as much as 10-20°F cooler than conventional "SAE" oil. Synthetics lubricate better, run at more consistent viscosity at low and higher temps, and are less prone to oil sludge problems. Your oil change intervals can also be doubled compared to how often you'd change conventional oil. Overall the cost of synthetic oil isn't bad considering how long many extra miles you can get out of it. __________________ 2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks
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09-01-2018, 12:47 PM	#23
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	This type works for me: https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Sizes-Val...sAAOSwN6JY~5-I __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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09-02-2018, 03:00 PM	#25
Gh426 Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: LA Posts: 74	Remedies for high compression, thoughts on oil Prevent knock by; Higher octane fuel, or octane boost or mixing in oil M.M.? Running richer fuel 2 air mixture Cooler plug? retarded timing, increased airflow around the engine, ie sandblast that black shit off of the cooling fins?, not running wide open throttle continuously. H2O/alky injection, mini oil cooler mounted high, ie crash proof, Hell in cold climates it could help heat the driver. Thoughts, conerns, comments or questions? Anybody here own a diesel engine? 20 seconds after starting after an oil change the oil goes coal black due 2 13+ compression ratios. I've always read that the main reason to change motorcycle oil frequently is because of the wet transmission gears shredding the microscopic hairs of the oil. I think it's more mental Psych the color of the oil. But those gear teeth shredding the oil, wow! Last edited by Gh426; 09-02-2018 at 03:57 PM.
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09-03-2018, 12:04 PM	#30
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,578	What? No pictures? We like to see what you have done porting wise. __________________ 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
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08-30-2018, 10:48 AM	#17
Tashka Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 158	I use synthetic motorcycle oil, its more expensive, but it keeps its color and consistency longer, the conventional oil went extremely black for me pretty fast. I pretty much constantly abuse the hawk. On and off the track. I do lots of city driving. When I first got the hawk, the throttle was not sitting right from previous owner, and was stuck in WOT. I didn't know, and this being my first motorcycle, was oblivious it wasn't supposed to idle so high(or loud.) and during "warm up" the header turned a cherry red and the exhaust cover caught fire on the stock muffler.... I figured out and solved thst issue. Hawk engine has run like a champ since that. I've put the clone mikuni on. What would be some symptoms of overheating an air cooled engine? I am certain an oil cooler would run better, But I'm thinking i might not want one due to issues if I wiped out(especially off-road in the middle of no where, I ride my hawk out there) And because I'd like to save as much weight as possible, especially since I plan on racing. The hawk isn't a feather, but she isn't heavy whatsoever.
	0

08-30-2018, 10:50 AM	#18
Tashka Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 158	And aftermarket exhaust. I'm in the middle of Texas. I've been riding every day. 95-105 has been pretty normal for me between working outside and riding my hawk.
	0

08-31-2018, 07:11 PM	#21
Tashka Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 158	Any tips for taking off the valve springs and the valves? i need a special tool don't i?
	0

08-31-2018, 07:12 PM	#22
Tashka Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 158	I'm about to go pick up sand paper and a caliper.
	0

09-03-2018, 06:19 AM	#29
Tashka Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 158	I shaved off 1mm aswell as installing a thinner head gasket i got from csc. The tt250 head gasket is about half a mm shorter thsn the stock gasket that was on the hawk. But it had a slight ridge, its probbaly about .25mm when compressed. I'm not sure the compression ratio now, but it runs great! I didn't do as aggressive porting as I was going to, but smoothed out the initial ridge in the intake, and took a decent bit of material from the exhaust. I probably could have gone wider, But since it's my first time porting i didnt want to go too crazy. I focused on the ridges right under the valve seat and removed a decent bit from the bump where the valve guide goes, especially at the corners on the exhaust. would have spent more time, but since it's my daily transport.... I might do some more intense porting In the future if I decide i want some more performance parts in the engine. I'll post some pictures tomorrow of tsking it apart I've noticed a nice increase in torque throughout the engine range. I can get the front wheel to come up in third gear with just the throttle. I couldnt get it to do that before! maybe if I popped the clutch and really pulled on the bars. I'm running 15/44 sprockets. The jetting is a little off now, but ill work on that.
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