04-04-2008, 09:05 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 59
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Rear disc drags
On the way home from work today my Speedee felt like it got weak. I pulled over and noticed that my rear disc brake is dragging (pads are rubbing against the disc). When I push the bike I can hear the drag. I checked the brake pedal adjustment screw and it is in it's full up position. Or in this case, the position that would allow the peg in the master cylinder to go to it's full out position. Can someone help me figure out how to adjust the rear disc brake so it doesn't drag?
Here are some pictures of my brakes: |
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04-04-2008, 09:14 PM | #2 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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In the second picture you can attempt to adjust that linkage attached to the pedal.
You need to adjust it so that the bolt portion almost touched the pedal. I actually removed a portion with a grinder. Try adjusting it first, but welcome to the club. Allen
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You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone. |
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04-04-2008, 09:58 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 59
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Adjustments
I adjusted the bolt in picture 2 that is attached to the plunger. I also let a little out fluid from the bleeder screw. It seem to push much easier and doesn't seem to drag. Of course it's cooled down now so we'll see what happens when it warms back up again. It seemed as if the cylinder plunger was stuck because I noticed there is more play in the plunger now. Again, I'll take a cruise tomorrow and see what happens, but for now it seems to push smooth again and doesn't feel like it's hanging up.
Hey katoranger...did you ever figure out your rear brake problem? |
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04-04-2008, 10:24 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 118
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I had the same problem. Get some Real DOT4 or 5 break fluid and bleed that Chianese gravy out. The boiling point on that stuff is low, and there is probably air in the caliper. Bleed it well at the very least. Dont trust it until you bleed it.
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04-05-2008, 10:46 AM | #5 |
Take the adjuster completely out and you will have not more problems. Same thing happened to me.
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04-05-2008, 01:13 PM | #6 | |
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern Vermont, USA
Posts: 1,249
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Quote:
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First Chinabike: 2006 Roketa RSX200E Current Chinabikes: 2023 Titan DLX & 2022 Lifan KP Mini w/ 210cc BRT kit, 22 RWHP! |
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04-05-2008, 01:56 PM | #7 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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I have bled all the fluid out too. It was nasty dark dirty looking.
That wasn't the problem though. I installed a honda master and the plunger was too long. Cut it done to length. If it is possible remove the adjuster and mount is direct. Allen
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You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone. |
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04-13-2008, 12:36 PM | #8 | ||
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 59
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Quote:
So, when the caliper gets hot you cannot push the bike. When it's cool, you can. As suggested, I took apart the linkage and pulled on the plunger, it's as far out as it can be pulled under cold conditions. There is no doubt the plunger is in it's full out position. The break pedal doesn't hit the adjustment screw, there's about a quarter inch gap between the adjustment screw and the pedal. I can lift the brake pedal up to ensure the plunger is fully out. It is, unless the cylinder is defective. Since the pads only grab and drag after being heated up with about 20 minutes of riding, I'm going to hit the DOT4 fluid and give that a try. At this stage I would suspect it's not the linkage since the plunger is as far out as I can physically pull it. I'll let you know what happens with the DOT4 or 5. |
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04-13-2008, 01:22 PM | #9 | |||
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Duude, like I said before take out the adjustment screw, it don't matter if its hitting or not. Mine did the same thing, took it out haven't had a problem since, end of story. I don't know why your making it so hard for yourself |
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04-13-2008, 02:35 PM | #10 | ||||
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 59
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04-13-2008, 02:38 PM | #11 |
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 118
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Change the fluid and bleed the he11 out of it. It will likely fix it.
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04-13-2008, 02:39 PM | #12 |
you took out the screw and nut completely? If its still acting up next thing I would do is adjust the petal to master linkage so that there is more play before it activated the brake. If you do both and its still locking up I have no idea. I just really think it is one of those.
Hope this helps! |
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04-13-2008, 02:47 PM | #13 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 59
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Master Cylinder
I tried literally all link and adjustment screw possibilities. None worked. The brakes still lock up in about 20 minutes or so.
I drained the brake fluid and tried adding DOT4, but the fluid will not pass from the fluid cup to the lines. I filled the cup to the top and hit the pedal nearly 1000 times. The cup is still full of fluid. I also tried to hold the pedal down. The cup is still full. I cannot get the fluid into the brake line. Nothing comes out of the bleeder screw and the cup remains full of fluid. I tried to close the screw and build some pressure. Nothing happened. When I drained the fluid, It was almost as if the fluid in the line drained out, but thats all because the cup did not lose any fluid or go down. Am I doing something wrong or is my master cylinder bad? How do you get the brake fluid in the line? |
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04-13-2008, 02:51 PM | #14 | |
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Seligman, AZ
Posts: 107
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Use dont 3 or 4 fluid only.. Now I return you to your regular forum. |
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04-13-2008, 02:57 PM | #15 | ||
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 59
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Quote:
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...sp?product=138 |
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