Immediantly Change Hawk 250 Factory Engine Oil??

HawkTwoFifty · 10-29-2017, 07:28 PM

I have read a couple times now where Hawk 250 owners suggest to change out the factory engine oil before starting/riding the bike for the first time. Is this just a safe precaution, or is there a known issue with the factory oil such as inferior oil or incorrect grade of oil, etc?

I originally planned to change my new hawk 250's factory engine oil after the break-in period, but am now wondering if there was a known reason to change it immediately before even starting or riding the bike as I have read a couple times now from Hawk owners. Thanks!!

Megadan · 10-29-2017, 07:48 PM

Change it. Put in some 15w 40 Rotella t4. The oil they come with is pretty poor quality, and many believe it isnt engine oil at all. Mine also low. Rotella tt4 can be bought at wally world for 13 to 15 bucks for a 4 quart jug, so you get a couple of oil changes out of it.

HawkTwoFifty · 10-29-2017, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

Change it. Put in some 15w 40 Rotella t4. The oil they come with is pretty poor quality, and many believe it isnt engine oil at all. Mine also low. Rotella tt4 can be bought at wally world for 13 to 15 bucks for a 4 quart jug, so you get a couple of oil changes out of it.

Thanks for your reply Megadan. I have a jug of Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 and will now replace the oil thanks to your suggestion. Thanks again!

HawkTwoFifty · 10-29-2017, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

Change it. Put in some 15w 40 Rotella t4. The oil they come with is pretty poor quality, and many believe it isnt engine oil at all. Mine also low. Rotella tt4 can be bought at wally world for 13 to 15 bucks for a 4 quart jug, so you get a couple of oil changes out of it.

Forgot to ask.. is there a major difference between 15w 40 Rotella t4, and Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 which I currently have?

I have seen a lot of recommendations for 15w 40 Rotella t4 here, but happen to have Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 right now. Will there be any issues with using the Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 in my Hawk 250 as opposed to 15w 40 Rotella t4?

Thanks!!

Ariel Red Hunter · 10-29-2017, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HawkTwoFifty

Forgot to ask.. is there a major difference between 15w 40 Rotella t4, and Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 which I currently have?

I have seen a lot of recommendations for 15w 40 Rotella t4 here, but happen to have Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 right now. Will there be any issues with using the Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 in my Hawk 250 as opposed to 15w 40 Rotella t4?

Thanks!!

Perhaps not, but if you start to have clutch problems, change to Rotella T4, or T6, which is synthetic...ARH

Megadan · 10-29-2017, 11:02 PM

What ARH said. They kwy difference between wet clutch friendly oil and non friendly comes down to friction modifiers like moly. Great for fuel econ, but bad for clutch grabby-ness.

Torgo · 10-30-2017, 11:22 AM

I think the best reason is just for peace of mind. It's cheap and easy to do. Bigger problem with mine was there wasn't much in there, about half the quantity of what I ended up filling it up with.

I thought the stuff that came out originally looked decent enough - seemed to have the right color and viscocity, but I changed it before running it for the reason above. Got rid of it by mixing it in with an oil change on one of the trucks on the deer lease - it hasn't blown up or caught on fire last I checked.

I used the Rotella T4 initially, but this year filled it up with Walmart Super Tech 15W-40 crap because that was what was lying around when I did it. Been running really good with it. Personally I think any mainstream 15W-40 with the standard certifications for diesel oil and without the extra lubricants that would screw up a clutch will be fine. The Rotella T4 is affordable and seems to be the default choice around here - a gallon will last you 2-3 oil changes and runs about $15 so why not?

Ariel Red Hunter · 10-30-2017, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

What ARH said. They kwy difference between wet clutch friendly oil and non friendly comes down to friction modifiers like moly. Great for fuel econ, but bad for clutch grabby-ness.

Yes, yes, the snake oil salesman said, and it has a friction modifier in it that makes the clutch engage so smo-o-o-thly, you'll think the bike has an automatic transmission!! ( I was gonna' say a Buick Dynaflow transmission, but all of you are too young to remember that eighth wonder of the world.)...ARH

Megadan · 10-30-2017, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

( I was gonna' say a Buick Dynaflow transmission, but all of you are too young to remember that eighth wonder of the world.)...ARH

I may be young(er), but it would surprise you to know that I do indeed know what the Dynaflow is, although the version I got to play with was the twin turbine model in a 1954 Roadmaster.

I love old Buicks. One of my guilty pleasures

Ariel Red Hunter · 10-30-2017, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Megadan

I may be young(er), but it would surprise you to know that I do indeed know what the Dynaflow is, although the version I got to play with was the twin turbine model in a 1954 Roadmaster.

I love old Buicks. One of my guilty pleasures

Old Buicks were great cars. My last one was a 1964 299 cu in V-8 with Variable Pitch Dynaflow...ARH

Weldangrind · 10-31-2017, 12:32 PM

Beats the Chev Turboglide with "Triple Turbine Takeoff!"

10-29-2017, 07:28 PM	#1
HawkTwoFifty Join Date: Oct 2017 Posts: 93	Immediantly Change Hawk 250 Factory Engine Oil?? I have read a couple times now where Hawk 250 owners suggest to change out the factory engine oil before starting/riding the bike for the first time. Is this just a safe precaution, or is there a known issue with the factory oil such as inferior oil or incorrect grade of oil, etc? I originally planned to change my new hawk 250's factory engine oil after the break-in period, but am now wondering if there was a known reason to change it immediately before even starting or riding the bike as I have read a couple times now from Hawk owners. Thanks!!
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10-29-2017, 07:48 PM	#2
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,045	Change it. Put in some 15w 40 Rotella t4. The oil they come with is pretty poor quality, and many believe it isnt engine oil at all. Mine also low. Rotella tt4 can be bought at wally world for 13 to 15 bucks for a 4 quart jug, so you get a couple of oil changes out of it. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
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10-29-2017, 11:02 PM	#6
Megadan Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 8,045	What ARH said. They kwy difference between wet clutch friendly oil and non friendly comes down to friction modifiers like moly. Great for fuel econ, but bad for clutch grabby-ness. __________________ Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124
	0

10-31-2017, 12:32 PM	#11
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Beats the Chev Turboglide with "Triple Turbine Takeoff!" __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
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10-30-2017, 11:22 AM	#7
Torgo Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Texas Posts: 93	I think the best reason is just for peace of mind. It's cheap and easy to do. Bigger problem with mine was there wasn't much in there, about half the quantity of what I ended up filling it up with. I thought the stuff that came out originally looked decent enough - seemed to have the right color and viscocity, but I changed it before running it for the reason above. Got rid of it by mixing it in with an oil change on one of the trucks on the deer lease - it hasn't blown up or caught on fire last I checked. I used the Rotella T4 initially, but this year filled it up with Walmart Super Tech 15W-40 crap because that was what was lying around when I did it. Been running really good with it. Personally I think any mainstream 15W-40 with the standard certifications for diesel oil and without the extra lubricants that would screw up a clutch will be fine. The Rotella T4 is affordable and seems to be the default choice around here - a gallon will last you 2-3 oil changes and runs about $15 so why not?
	1