Hawk Talk

[Skurdy]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

MSO=Manufacturer's Statement of Origin. MCO=Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin. Same thing worded differently. I would bet if you showed up with an MCO, Texas would accept it. Somebody else already sent you the link for rear sprockets.

Yeah my MSO for my Hawk 250 is on the way! Thanks for the clarification on MSO/MCO. And I believe you're right I'm sure they would aswell!

[Skurdy]

Originally Posted by hertz9753

jdogg=Azule or however he spells his username here. I'm also a dog and I can't spell but I can modify ruh ruh to a growl, bark or a happy squeal. I went 16/44 with my gearing because Bismarck is not flat.

I'm gonna keep the 15T (in case of chain break) also gonna put a 40T on rear for faster top end! I will sacrifice the low end, but eh, won't really be doing to much trail riding and if I do just swap it back out, and have an extra chain for the correct length! And keep the tires I have as backup for trails!

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Skurdy

I'm gonna keep the 15T (in case of chain break) also gonna put a 40T on rear for faster top end! I will sacrifice the low end, but eh, won't really be doing to much trail riding and if I do just swap it back out, and have an extra chain for the correct length! And keep the tires I have as backup for trails!

The 40 tooth will still be good for off road too. I have the same combo and works great. You could always put a 16 or 17 tooth on front if you don't plan going off road.

[Skurdy]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

The 40 tooth will still be good for off road too. I have the same combo and works great. You could always put a 16 or 17 tooth on front if you don't plan going off road.

Hmmm. Do you think it would be better for top end? Ok I'm not gonna be a speed demon on this, I understand that, but I would like to achieve a decent amount of speed and I know I didn't pay for a racing enduro or anything, but I want 70mph to be achievable and cruise at it not for highway just for my liking is all. What do you think gear ratio would be best? Mr.JerryHawk250! our cops here In our area are pretty cool! Luckily!

[timcosby]

im running a 17/50 combo and cruise at half throttle at 55-60 so i would think the 17/40 should make 70 cruising about right. they are cheap so i would try the 17.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Skurdy

I'm gonna keep the 15T (in case of chain break) also gonna put a 40T on rear for faster top end! I will sacrifice the low end, but eh, won't really be doing to much trail riding and if I do just swap it back out, and have an extra chain for the correct length! And keep the tires I have as backup for trails!

15/40 is a 2.66 final drive ratio. Stock is 3.33. I would think that 15/40 would work really well for your mainly on road uses. If you live west of Fort Worth, it might be too tall, going west from there. I once hauled 45,000 lbs of iron out that way, and my Double-Breasted Yamaha couldn't pull it in top gear. Had to run in ninth all the way to the escarpment over the border in New Mexico.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Skurdy

Hmmm. Do you think it would be better for top end? Ok I'm not gonna be a speed demon on this, I understand that, but I would like to achieve a decent amount of speed and I know I didn't pay for a racing enduro or anything, but I want 70mph to be achievable and cruise at it not for highway just for my liking is all. What do you think gear ratio would be best? Mr.JerryHawk250! our cops here In our area are pretty cool! Luckily!

Be gentle with this bike until you get it broken in. They start to come alive after 500 miles. When you put that 40 tooth on, better re-jet the carb right away. You will be running a lot above 3/4 throttle, if you want to stretch it out to 70 mph. And Wide open throttle combined with a tall gear ratio, and an over-lean carburetor is a recipe for disaster. Engine melt down type disaster.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

Be gentle with this bike until you get it broken in. They start to come alive after 500 miles. When you put that 40 tooth on, better re-jet the carb right away. You will be running a lot above 3/4 throttle, if you want to stretch it out to 70 mph. And Wide open throttle combined with a tall gear ratio, and an over-lean carburetor is a recipe for disaster. Engine melt down type disaster.

I agree, Let it break in. I think you will like the 15/40 combo.

[JonHTEXAS]

Hey yall,
I got my Hawk bout a week ago, all went well, until now i woke up went to start it and theres no power. The green neutral light doesnt come on, no head lights brakes etc nothing. Once I kick start it or use a screw driver to by pass the solenoid it starts right up with all lights working fine... Any ideas? I tried checking all the wires behind the headlight and buying a new battery.. Just kind of lost

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by JonHTEXAS

Hey yall,
I got my Hawk bout a week ago, all went well, until now i woke up went to start it and theres no power. The green neutral light doesnt come on, no head lights brakes etc nothing. Once I kick start it or use a screw driver to by pass the solenoid it starts right up with all lights working fine... Any ideas? I tried checking all the wires behind the headlight and buying a new battery.. Just kind of lost

I'm no expert on electrical systems, but I'm curious. Did the old battery hold a charge? Did you check the ground side connection of the battery to the frame? Do you have a multimeter? Why did you buy a new battery? That the lights come on once the engine is started is no surprise-the alternator is supplying the juice. So, when you turn the ignition key on and the neutral light doesn't come on, but when you jump the solenoid, and the engine cranks, do the lights come on BEFORE the engine starts? If this is the case, check every ground. Why? Because when you jump the solenoid, the sudden jolt of voltage can "Burn through" the resistance between poor grounds to the frame. Paint on the frame where the battery ground goes can cause a bad ground problem. Sincerely, ARH

[JonHTEXAS]

Ya while bypassing the solenoid in that split sec before it cranks up the green neutral comes on.. Can u point me in the direction of the ground? I don't see any wires around the battery going to the frame.. I bought a new battery and 12v battery charger assuming that was the issue but the old battery is fine.. thanks..

Update... It was just the glass fuse from the solenoid duh.. I had checked it and it looked fine but changed it anyway and all is good now.. Thanks for your help

[Skurdy]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

Be gentle with this bike until you get it broken in. They start to come alive after 500 miles. When you put that 40 tooth on, better re-jet the carb right away. You will be running a lot above 3/4 throttle, if you want to stretch it out to 70 mph. And Wide open throttle combined with a tall gear ratio, and an over-lean carburetor is a recipe for disaster. Engine melt down type disaster.

Ok well here's a video of my carburetor(surprisingly it started up but had to give it gas or it died). And the video ended because my phone ran out of storage but that's what I wanted to show and idk how to work the carb so I'm showing you this video to show you my screw. Also all the noise is from 1. A loose bolt in the back for the passengers bar on the right side just 1 and the gas cap and my led wire box light, that's why but when I go above 10mph you can't hear it. Anyway here's the video

[Skurdy]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

15/40 is a 2.66 final drive ratio. Stock is 3.33. I would think that 15/40 would work really well for your mainly on road uses. If you live west of Fort Worth, it might be too tall, going west from there. I once hauled 45,000 lbs of iron out that way, and my Double-Breasted Yamaha couldn't pull it in top gear. Had to run in ninth all the way to the escarpment over the border in New Mexico.

Awesome thanks for the details just what I wanted to hear!! I'm located in Conroe, TX look it up for area that I'm in

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Skurdy

Awesome thanks for the details just what I wanted to hear!! I'm located in Conroe, TX look it up for area that I'm in

Conroe, isn't that just north of Houston?

[timcosby]

Originally Posted by Skurdy

Ok well here's a video of my carburetor(surprisingly it started up but had to give it gas or it died). And the video ended because my phone ran out of storage but that's what I wanted to show and idk how to work the carb so I'm showing you this video to show you my screw. Also all the noise is from 1. A loose bolt in the back for the passengers bar on the right side just 1 and the gas cap and my led wire box light, that's why but when I go above 10mph you can't hear it. Anyway here's the video

once its warmed up good use the screw you showed to adjust the idle.