04-02-2016, 08:33 PM | #16 |
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 60
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so ill drain the oil again and take the side cover off, but do i need a specific torque to each bolt? and if i do, how do i find out what torque? I can send a picture of clutch but i have absoulutely no idea what im looking for so hopefully you can help, thanks.
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04-02-2016, 09:27 PM | #17 |
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Sudbury ,Ontario
Posts: 855
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Pull the cover and we can go from there .I am fairly certain ,you are going to find something that's either disconnected or broken .
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04-02-2016, 11:39 PM | #18 |
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 60
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I'm going to be in costa rica for about a week and a half, so I'll open up the cover once I get back.
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04-03-2016, 02:45 PM | #19 |
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: central illinois
Posts: 362
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it looked to me like the cable was just not adjusted correctly, my storm will do the exact same thing if the cable comes lose ... i just do not think you have enough slack out of the clutch arm ... take a large adjustable wrench, put it on the clutch lever (at the motor) and see if you cant just move the lever past the free play ... do not force it, but i bet it will move with a "springy" feeling and work just fine ... this is exactly what my bike does, i mean it moves just like that (it vibrated loose last week while riding)
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04-07-2016, 04:09 PM | #20 |
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 60
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As soon as I get back I'll try that, thanks
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04-12-2016, 01:03 PM | #21 |
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 60
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Ok so I got back and tried moving the clutch lever with a wrench, and it worked, i was able to move the clutch arm more and it had a lot of tension on it. Although i'm still facing the problem that i cant brake, once i start the engine, the drive shaft is constantly moving, and theirs no way to stop it with out the engine dying, or it being in neutral. i have a video already posted showing the drive shaft moving the entire time, if you need a better video or more info just ask. As of now, i cant drive it or else i would be constantly moving and there would be no way to brake without the engine dying. pls help thanks
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04-13-2016, 02:40 PM | #22 |
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 60
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bump
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04-13-2016, 03:25 PM | #23 |
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: central illinois
Posts: 362
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so did you try the brakes while using the wrench to work the clutch, it still sounds like the cable is to loose
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04-13-2016, 03:46 PM | #24 |
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 60
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yea i did, the engine just died.
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04-13-2016, 03:47 PM | #25 |
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 60
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even if that did work i dont want to pull the clutch in every time i brake.
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04-13-2016, 05:02 PM | #26 |
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: central illinois
Posts: 362
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then you need an auto (cvt, or semi auto) not one with a clutch, when working correctly, you need the clutch to stop (or it must be in neutral) if just slowing and not shifting down, you would not need the clutch
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04-13-2016, 05:16 PM | #27 |
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 60
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I took a video explaining things better and showing the problems. In the video I wasn't able to actually engage the clutch because I needed two hands. But I have and nothing happened.
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04-13-2016, 05:54 PM | #28 |
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 60
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I didn't notice I had to pull in the clutch when I brake, I'm totally ok with that, for my setup what do you suggest I do.
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04-13-2016, 06:03 PM | #29 |
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: central illinois
Posts: 362
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from the video it is working as it should ... unless you have held the clutch lever and hit the brakes at the same time and it still dies ... when you do not have the clutch lever moved to the front, it should die when the axle stops ... get a wire or small rope, move the lever as far to the front as you can and tie it off so it holds it there, while it is forward as far as it can go, then stop the axle and it should stay running
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04-13-2016, 06:12 PM | #30 |
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 60
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Thanks I'll tell you what happens in a bit
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