06-22-2006, 09:48 PM | #16 |
Look on the bottom left side, there is a cap with a hex-nut head, should be 24mm. This is your drain plug and there is a spring w/the filter inside, the filter looks like a thimble. I take my skid plate off just so the oil will drain freely and won't be dripping everywhere. after all the oil is drained, you might want to hold it over a bit on it's sidestand just to be sure all the old oil is out.
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2004 KAZUMA CHEETAH 200 2001 Yamaha Big Bear 400 1986 Honda ATC 250ES 1983 Honda ATC 200X 1974 Kawasaki KE100 |
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06-22-2006, 10:29 PM | #17 | |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Uniontown, Pa
Posts: 60
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Thanks for the quick reply and answer. I was getting a bit worried on how I was going to drain the oil. Short of turning the machine upside down.
Thanks Again, Mike Quote:
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06-28-2006, 03:21 PM | #18 | |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron)
Posts: 599
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Quote:
auto parts for about $3 or $4. They were magnetic as well. The drain plug that came in mine is magnetic also. It had a bunch of small particles of metal on it as did both of my kids 125's as well. I changed the oil before ever running them.
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2000 MZ Baghira |
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06-28-2006, 11:33 PM | #19 | |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 130
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06-29-2006, 11:27 AM | #20 | |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 61
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06-29-2006, 11:35 AM | #21 |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 188
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If your MaxFine has a drain plug you might be better off to use it. There is probably a little well on the bottom where the plug is that will tend to collect the little metal particles from the breakin period. When you shut down the motor, the particles in suspension will accumulate on the bottom of the crankcase. While you can drain out most of the oil by removing the filter cap on the side, it looked to me like there would still be a little oil left in the bottom of the crankcase.
I had to remove my skid plate to get to the drain plug the first time I changed my oil. While I had the skid plate off I cut a bigger hole in it so I could get to the plug. Try pulling your skid plate off and see if there is a plug in the bottom of the motor. It looks like a bolt head sticking down there. If indeed there is no drain plug, then you are limited to using the filter cap to drain the oil. If you drain it immediately after riding, most of the particulates will still be suspended in the oil and will come out with it. Good luck! |
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06-29-2006, 07:17 PM | #22 | |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 61
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06-30-2006, 01:00 PM | #23 |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Utah
Posts: 61
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Well no drain on the bottom of the 150 and the fiter cap and outlet are actually forming a small dip at the bottom of the engine which makes it the absolte lowest spot so I guess for this engine the filter cap is the drain.
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08-11-2006, 06:36 PM | #24 | |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron)
Posts: 599
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Quote:
drain plug to the parts store to see if I could get a magnetic one. Well they only had M12 x 1.25 and M12 x 1.75 ones that wouldn't work. The one outta my GY is M12 x 1.50. So I got on the web and found one that I may invest in once I have the funds. Unfortunately they are a little more than a few dollars. Almost $20 to be exact. A couple links that I found. Zip Ty Racing. http://www.ziptyracing.com/products/...px?id=MTA1Mw== Dual Star. This is the one I want. http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Bran...ain%20Plug.htm Some reading from a KLR650 site... What size is the oil plug? The oil plug thread is M12 x 1.50. Moose makes a magnetic drain plug (p/n M0103), and Dual Star makes a low-profile one. (You can also knock some of the hex off of the Moose plug with a lathe or grinder.) Cutting down the drain plug is a good idea for off-roading, as it can stick out past the skid plate. One Moose adopter reported having to run a thread die over the plug to get an easy fit into the drain hole. A further option is Honda p/n 92800-12000. Could this be the same Honda part number as the XR200? After a google and ebay search I came up emty handed. Hope this helps...
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2000 MZ Baghira |
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08-28-2006, 08:34 AM | #25 |
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cornwall, UK
Posts: 5
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Oil filter location
Imeazy,
There are two oil filters on these engines, as ther are on the Hondas. One is the wire mesh located on the lower left hand side (altenator side). The other is a rotor type affair, which is bolted onto the crank on the right side of the engine (clutch side). The oil is passed into this filter from an oilway in the clutch cover. As it is mounted on the crankshaft this filter is rotating at engine rpm, and so works as a centrafuge. On these engines you will need to remove the clutch cover to gain access to it. Hope this helps. I have labeled pullin-gs's photos below: http://www.nalyd.freeserve.co.uk/GY200/mm8.JPG http://www.nalyd.freeserve.co.uk/GY200/mm6.JPG |
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08-28-2006, 12:48 PM | #26 |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron)
Posts: 599
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Thanks for the info. That's what I was wondering from the pic in the manual. Does the internal filter need to be cleaned as often as the screen? I just changed the oil the other day and the screen was comepletely clean, no metal shavings at all. I have no idea as to how many miles are on this thing. Still working to afford a speedo cable. laughs.
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08-29-2006, 03:53 PM | #27 |
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Cornwall, UK
Posts: 5
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Centifuge Oil Filter
ImEazy,
I have owned three small bore SOHC Honda engines (CB100N CB125 XL125) when I was in in my teens. I only cleaned these filters when I had cause to remove the clutch cover. I never owned them for any length of time. I also owned a CB500T (inline twin) which also had the same type of filter. However there was a cover on the clutch casing which allowed you access tho the filter without having to remove the entire clutch cover. Initially when I owned this bike, I would clean it every oil change. But due to the the hassle and small amount of debri, I eventually did it about twice a year. I've also owned British bike which used this principle. However they used one of the crank webs as the centifuge. There was a large blanking screw which you could remove to clean out the web. However the crank had to be removed from the bike to do this (complete engine dismantle) therefore it was not what you would call routine maintainance. I've recently bought a GY200, which uses the OHC Honda clone engine. I personally intend to make this an annual task. I don't recall ever seeing a time/milage scale in any manual for this. If anyone knows different, I would be interested to hear. |
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08-29-2006, 10:32 PM | #28 | |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron)
Posts: 599
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Re: Centifuge Oil Filter
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09-02-2006, 01:56 PM | #29 |
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sweden, Europe
Posts: 304
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09-02-2006, 02:27 PM | #30 |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: N.E. Ohio (Near Akron)
Posts: 599
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Thanks for the link CathastrophiX. I tried to view the site three different times, but it wouldn't load comepletely? I'll probably just go with the one I mentioned earlier as this looks to be in Sweden. Shipping may be more than it's worth. I have to get a job before I can really afford anymore anyhow. Still trying to get a speedo cable. Laughs...
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