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Old 06-27-2011, 11:35 AM   #16
sallzy   sallzy is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Hyde park vermont
Posts: 61
to prove out your battery your going to need to put a meter on it and get it load tested. as a couple other guys stated, your battery can read good volttage and as soon as you put a cranking amp load on it, it'll crap out. most auto parts stores wil voltage and load test your battery for you and you should eleminate your questionable battery before any other troubleshooting. it could save you a ton of time,hair pulling and headaches.


 
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Old 06-27-2011, 11:46 AM   #17
Moonbloodsflow   Moonbloodsflow is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Ohio
Posts: 111
It cost me like almost $80 for a new battery from Walmart. I'm not sure what battery the Zongs take but my QLink XF200 took an Everstart ES9BS. It was $60 + $9 core charge and tax. If your battery is anywhere near that expensive you should just look at the Shorai batteries the guys have been talking about on here. It's worth spending $100 on one of them. I really wish I would have bought one.


 
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:03 AM   #18
bennnn   bennnn is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonbloodsflow
It's possible to have a bad battery and it meter out the correct voltage but when it's put under load it just craps out. That's exactly what happened with me.

If the Zong is anything like the newer QLinks, the battery also acts as a capacitor from my research. So it sounds like a bad battery. My bike had pretty much the same symptoms and I tore it all apart checking all of the electrical only to find out it was the battery. It had me fooled because it kept metering the right voltage.

Also, just my opinion, make sure when you're charging your battery you aren't charging it with a high amperage output. Use the lowest setting your battery charger has, ideally under 2 amps. Really 1/2 an amp or an amp would be better.

Moonbloodsflow, your SC kind of freaks me out,,

But you nailed it with your guess. I have to give you the kudo even though I had it straight before I got back online tonight.

I was being lazy earlier and didn't want to take the side plastic off to actually look at the battery, and Spud was right too, the charger just kept saying the battery needed charged, not that it was bad.


I tore it down (because I'm going to paint the plastics over the next two days, and to look at the battery,,, DUAL PURPOSE EXCUSE,, lol)


The battery had a hairline crack in it from the left top corner down about halfway, and the box was pretty dusty with white crusty powder.... About five mintues before I got a look at this condition, my "snazzy" charger told me the battery was good to go and just needed more charging............

I tracked down a new battery here in town and;
Now the old beat up beast fires right up, all the lights work as expected and all seems to be well.

Weldandgrind had a point about the electric controls working under different conditions, it was what convinced me to take a physical look at the battery. I had it hooked up to the charger and unplugged it to try starting it with the back brake pressed,, and it clicked like hell and all I can say is that I "smelled" the battery. So on a side note, my lights and such only work when the bike is running, but the back brake burns the light in back when it is hit with the key on but not running,,, not sure what that could really mean, but it is what it is.

Rode two hours today with no issues,, other than that my lower back feels like an army just marched across it.


 
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