02-22-2011, 08:39 PM
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
Posts: 4,880
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Quote:
Obviously you don't mean his car, but we can't read your mind. Are you talking about the 300 Sumoto, or the atv from Sinclairs whatever it may be? Disc brakes? Drum brakes? Front? Rear? Is the fluid coming out when you attempt to use the brakes, or just when you're bleeding them? Are the brake shoes or pads moving? In good shape? Details please. I'm not an expert, but we have a lot of knowledgeable people, however I don't think they can read minds either.
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"Be excellent to each other" "We are all human. Let's start to prove it!" |
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02-22-2011, 09:54 PM
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#8 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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That's a good start.
May we have some background information? What do you mean when you say 400cc? Is it a China quad or a name brand? Please be as specific as you can. Also, did the brakes work properly and then suddenly fail, or is this a new unit that has never worked? The more we know, the more likely that we are able to help you.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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02-22-2011, 10:20 PM
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#9 |
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: central vic australia
Posts: 113
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Do you mean the fluid comes out of the bleeder valve OK when you replaced the cylinder and then re-bled the system? Or do you mean that the brakes bleed fluid at that point even if the valve is closed WHEN you apply the brakes?
And is this front AND rear or what? Either way, if that valving is stuffed or not, are you saying you are getting some pressure through to the pads, then they are moving just a little but seizing in their slots? I suggest you disassemble that part of the system as best you can, or get in there and try and clean it all up and get dust and grit and so on out to free up the pad movement. You need free moving pads. If they are locked up then the fluid will come out anywhere it can if you squeeze hard! Sounds like the pads are seizing and you have blown any valve seals when trying to force it to work? It should take just a light pressure on the brake lever to actuate the disc in and out. We will get you sorted if you give us more and more details. Then your dad will be amazed. Try and answer each question in order, If you don't understand a question, say so. Sometimes it is difficult to explain stuff in writing because we expect someone understands but usually they don't.!!!!  Just help us to help you by slowing down a bit and telling us, bit by bit, what we ask please. |
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02-22-2011, 11:46 PM
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#11 |
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: central vic australia
Posts: 113
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well unless I misunderstood, that is meant to happen, that valve opens so you can bleed the brake lines and get rid of air, which you have done?
So you know the line from lever to valve is OK at least, Time to check the next bit. So o the clean up round the pads and checks on why the pads aren't moving. to see if they can move if you wiggle them. In other words if the pads are sticking or not. You need to know that because If the pads are locked solid because of grit or dust then the lines are probably OK but If the pads can move with a bit of help from you (not using the levers) you have to check back from there along the lines and maybe see if they are obstructed. I need to know where the bleeder valve/screw is or I may be thinking this all wrong! Buit from what you say it is OK that far and it is from there to the pads it is not working? Let us know how you go. |
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02-23-2011, 08:37 AM
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#12 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 1,097
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Quote:
Try this method first and if still you have no brakes then check for leaks in the lines, sometimes the rubber o-rings on the caliper pistons also go bad, looks for leaks there too. |
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02-23-2011, 03:06 PM
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#13 |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: austin, tx
Posts: 1,452
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when i got my quad since it was used, the rear caliper was seized and the master had some blown seals.. you can find complete rear brake kits on ebay for less then 50 shipped.. just find a rear brake system that the caliper looks exactly like ur current one and replace it
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200cc beast replica,carsoli cdi,performance coil,fmf powercore 2,uni air filter,hour/tach meter,jetted mikuni carb,msr bars,moose racing grips,yz250f clutch perch,D.I.D chain |
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02-23-2011, 09:32 PM
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#14 |
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: SASKATOON
Posts: 1,161
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bleeding brakes
the trouble with alot of the brake systems is that they loose their residual pressure and you can not bleed them because there is too much fluid required to get the air out of the brake calipher..
This is what works for me..... push the brake pads all the way back to the housing... insert something inside the calipher to take up ALL the space.. ( or use C clamps to hold the pistons from moving) unscrew the bleed screw at the housing and wait until brake fluid is leaking out of it ( DO NOT APPLY THE BRAKES ) LET THE GRAVITY CAUSE THE FLUID TO FLOW DOWN once you have fluid leaking at the screw .. apply the brakes.. you should bleed the system the normal way.. you will see that it will bleed any air out of the system up to the calipher.... once bleed and no air is coming out of the bleed screw ... reinstall the calipher on the atv... ( with pads) then slowly re-bleed ( keep the fluid fill up) there should be no air in the calipher so it will apply the brakes and work ok.. I have done this to many brake setup.. it works with some patience..
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