Just got a XPro Templar 250X

[BlueJayMoto]

Howdy,

I just got a XPro Templar X 250 in about 3 - 4 days a go, (HERE is some pic's no fairings. https://imgur.com/a/pWoAoFG ) it runs okay out of the box and all but have a bit of a issue to where when even hot if you give it the gas it dies. If I play with the idler screw it some what fix's but then when I got to stop and the moto is hot its at like 3k RPM's. How I found that if you play with the cable adjustment screw on The Handlebar it helps a bit more but it still brings up my idol toy about 2k.

Yes I have seen most of the guides on here but I just feel like they don't answer my question

so
1. Is this common Behavior out of the box
2. Do I need to rejet the carb or crack it open and adjust something
3. Best to just replace the carb
??

Other: The headlight is trash does anyone have any suggestions on how to make it better or replacement? edit:( All lights on the XPro Templar X 250 come LED )

Thanks.

[bigdano711]

I replaced all bulbs with LED's, much better and cheaper/easier than buying new headlight/blinkers/tail light.


So if you roll on the throttle, it's fine, but if you crack it hard to like half or full, it dies, right? Welcome to the CG250 4 stroke life. You can make it better, but it's not gonna run like a 2 stroke. Think of these motors like a 223cc/249cc lawn mower engine.

[Thumper]

Welcome!

It's jet too lean. We had the same issue with my son's Temp X (and most china bikes, frankly).

Remove the carb, grind off the two break-off bolts that hold the bowl on, replace the pilot and main jets. Links to "how to" in the Templar resource thread. Look in the 4th post.

[BlueJayMoto]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

I replaced all bulbs with LED's, much better and cheaper/easier than buying new headlight/blinkers/tail light.

All the lights are LED on my bike. Its just the headlight is pointing to the sky, after some persuasion aka ( some adjustment)+ a small pebble I got it to aim down on the road in low but high beam still lights up the trees and sky. (I'll take a pic tonight and add it to this PORT here!
amazon.com/ X-PRO Templar X 250cc 6 Speed Dirt Bike

My head light fix for now,

BEFORE
https://imgur.com/CsZ04Vr

AFTER
https://imgur.com/gppGlau

at some point I will be getting this: https://www.cyclegear.com/parts/poli...ku_id=10139913

Originally Posted by bigdano711

So if you roll on the throttle, it's fine, but if you crack it hard to like half or full, it dies, right? Welcome to the CG250 4 stroke life. You can make it better, but it's not gonna run like a 2 stroke. Think of these motors like a 223cc/249cc lawn mower engine.

Some times its not even to half or really that hard of a crack (did I forget to mention this is under no load).. However so you are saying it is what it is and that is just due to its a CG250 4 stroke aka lawn mower engine? lol is there anyway to make it a bit better with carb replace to a NIBBI PE30mm or just play around with it until I find the sweet spot?




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Originally Posted by Thumper

Welcome!

It's jet too lean. We had the same issue with my son's Temp X (and most china bikes, frankly).

Remove the carb, grind off the two break-off bolts that hold the bowl on, replace the pilot and main jets. Links to "how to" in the Templar resource thread. Look in the 4th post.

Thanks for the welcome.

This is what I was thinking to myself, and I did read your ports you made in the New Member Introductions about rejetting the carb. I am looking for the "How to" Now.

[bigdano711]

Originally Posted by BlueJayMoto

Some times its not even to half or really that hard of a crack (did I forget to mention this is under no load).. However so you are saying it is what it is and that is just due to its a CG250 4 stroke aka lawn mower engine? lol is there anyway to make it a bit better with carb replace to a NIBBI PE30mm or just play around with it until I find the sweet spot?

I put a Nibbi PE28FL on my Hawk. This, as well as the stock carbs, don't have a fuel pump to throw a shot of fuel in the carb when you crack it. I've run my carb to rich, then to lean, then to hell and back and I can't get it to stop dying when I crack it. It does get better, but doesn't go away all together. You learn to live with it. Maybe it's different with the Templar, but I don't think so. Here's my bike "racing" at the fair. Does it sound lean?

[GypsyR]

I bought a jet kit for mine before it was even delivered. It was REALLY lean as delivered and richening the jets is the first thing I did after assembly.

I found the headlight astoundingly bad. So bad my pocket flashlight put out more light. Some people have changed the entire headlight but I found just putting in a decent bulb worked fine for me. It now puts out more useful light than my other bikes. What buld I used is in the resource thread. I think. Somewhere on here anyway.

[Thumper]

Here is a link to the Templar Resource Guide

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32177


Lots of useful info there. That YouAll carb that comes with your bike is actually a good match (28PE style). Rejetting it will cost under $10 and should be good to go. You can always get a new carb, but unless you do airbox mods and open up the exhaust side, there isn't any reason to go to a 30PE. It won't improve performance by itself and the 28 is a better match on all three circuits (pilot, needle and WOT/main).

The OEM carb works well at low elevation with these changes:
Original 120 main, 40 pilot
installed 125 main, 42 pilot (or 45 in hot weather, low elevation like the Fort Worth area).
About 1-1/2" turns out on the airscrew (drill out the cover to access the airscrew).

[jeffrey]

This bike the Temlpar X has a CB250CC engine, over head cam not a pushrod 229cc engine so it is a bit different. Do what Thumper said and change the jets in the carburetor.

[bigdano711]

Originally Posted by jeffrey

This bike the Temlpar X has a CB250CC engine, over head cam not a pushrod 229cc engine so it is a bit different. Do what Thumper said and change the jets in the carburetor.

Jets are not the issue. It's the needle. As soon as you crack the throttle, you're out of the idle circuit and into the mid-range, the domain of the needle. If it's idling good, you probably don't have to mess with the pilot jet. The needle in these carbs can be shimmed or adjusted in only one direction. You have to cut slots in the bowl screws to get them off. The air/fuel mixture screw is located in a pretty ridiculous place, but if you have the will, it can be gotten to. Seeing where you're at in relation to turns in/out, well, hahaha.


Again, I've been to hell and back. I went to the Nibbi, and it was still doing it. I tried every needle position and many jets. The Nibbi needle is weird. I went to the Keihin JJH needle and that is what I'm running now and what you see in the vid. Still has the issue, but WAY better.


Maybe there is some vastly superior edge between the Templar motor and the Hawk motor, but I doubt it. It comes down to fuel delivery at the moment of cracking the throttle, and the bike starves for fuel and dies. Pretty simple and straight forward.

[ProDigit]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

Jets are not the issue. It's the needle. As soon as you crack the throttle, you're out of the idle circuit and into the mid-range, the domain of the needle. If it's idling good, you probably don't have to mess with the pilot jet. The needle in these carbs can be shimmed or adjusted in only one direction. You have to cut slots in the bowl screws to get them off. The air/fuel mixture screw is located in a pretty ridiculous place, but if you have the will, it can be gotten to. Seeing where you're at in relation to turns in/out, well, hahaha.


Again, I've been to hell and back. I went to the Nibbi, and it was still doing it. I tried every needle position and many jets. The Nibbi needle is weird. I went to the Keihin JJH needle and that is what I'm running now and what you see in the vid. Still has the issue, but WAY better.


Maybe there is some vastly superior edge between the Templar motor and the Hawk motor, but I doubt it. It comes down to fuel delivery at the moment of cracking the throttle, and the bike starves for fuel and dies. Pretty simple and straight forward.

Yeah, but if the mid is too lean, the top end will be too lean as well.
I would suggest increasing the main jet by at least 4 sizes. The OEM PZ30, or PZ30 from Amazon or Alibaba, comes with a 95, 100 or 105 main, and a 38 pilot. I would try at least a 110-115 main. The 38 pilot may be lean, but can be riched out with enriching the main and adjusting the AF screw.

Then from there see if you need to increase the needle jet. The ones from Amazon or AliExpress have a 5 position clip. I raised mine by 1.5 (clip one down, and a small washer underneath, as 2 slots was too rich for me).
If you are able to adjust the stock carburetor (remove the tamper proof screws), you can always stack 2 or 3 washers under the clip, since the stock carb jet needle will more than likely not have any adjustment grooves on it.

[bigdano711]

Originally Posted by ProDigit

Yeah, but if the mid is too lean, the top end will be too lean as well.

Ergo, richen the mid, richen the top. No need to change the jet unless the motor tells you to.


Again, the issue is in the needle. And unless you go with a carb that has an accelerator pump, it will STILL die if you crack it open too hard. The End.

[ProDigit]

Originally Posted by bigdano711

Ergo, richen the mid, richen the top. No need to change the jet unless the motor tells you to.


Again, the issue is in the needle. And unless you go with a carb that has an accelerator pump, it will STILL die if you crack it open too hard. The End.

The main rule for jetting a carburetor, is first jetting the idle. Then jetting the main for top end. Only then you can raise the needle.
Raising the needle, will richen the mids, but there's still a chance the top end will be lean, as it DOES NOT richen 75-100% of throttle.
Once you rejet the main, there might be a chance the mids might be rich, due to the needle being raised before the rejet, and you'll have to lower the needle again.

Hence, after idle, jet the main, then as a last step adjust the needle height.

Raising the needle will depend on what intake and exhaust he will run.

[Thumper]

It's both. Rejet and shim the needle. It's all there in the Templar resource guide.

[Thumper]

Dano is correct about the needle. But it is easy to adjust in the Youall carb. Look at post #5 in the Templar resource guide sticky. Bump the jets and shim the needle, also drill out the EPA cover over the airscrew behind the tower on the right side. Adjust it to about 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns out.

It is an airscrew, so opening it makes it leaner. If you are waiting for jets, close down that screw to make it more rich until you get them. And you can shim the needle without even removing the carb! It's described it post #5 in the sticky

[bigdano711]

Originally Posted by ProDigit

The main rule for jetting a carburetor, is first jetting the idle. Then jetting the main for top end. Only then you can raise the needle.
Raising the needle, will richen the mids, but there's still a chance the top end will be lean, as it DOES NOT richen 75-100% of throttle.
Once you rejet the main, there might be a chance the mids might be rich, due to the needle being raised before the rejet, and you'll have to lower the needle again.

Hence, after idle, jet the main, then as a last step adjust the needle height.

Raising the needle will depend on what intake and exhaust he will run.

There is also the chance that the stock (Nibbi PE28FL) needle is just too fat and does nothing when you change the position of it. A picture speaks a thousand words, so here's 2000 for ya.