TBR7 1st Start Questions

[Nospark]

Having relatively nice weather today in Milwaukee so decided to start the bike for the 1st time and run it around the block a couple times.
It seemed hard starting but got it running and it idled OK after warming it up. I was surprised by the amount of smoke from exhaust paint burning off while I let it warm up. Stunk like burning paint so, I decided to let her go and not shut it down. It seemed to be all done burning off after my laps around the block. I'm guessing that's normal?
Everything went well except for shifting and rear brake. When I adjusted the clutch I deliberately tried to error on the lose side. It was very hard to up shift. Does this imply I need to take free play out of the clutch adjustment or, that there's not enough free play?
The front brake grabbed great and as expected but, it seems the rear brake wasn't grabbing the disc and stopping like it should. Almost like there was oil or grease on the disc. I'll clean with brake clean before next run. Anyone experience a break in period on the rear disc brake pads?
The starter seemed to quit at the top of a compression stroke a couple times but powered through it. I had the batter on a tender and know it was fully charged. Is this a normal thing for these bikes or, possibly a weak battery from the factory?
I haven't ridden a bike in 30 years. I can tell already this is going to be fun!

[kyle]

-You'll actually want the clutch slightly tight.. it'll stretch in its first few heat cycles.
-The shifter loosens up as you ride and break it in.
-Smoke is normal.. sometimes last 10 minutes on first start, shouldn't come back
-shoot the disk with brake clean and make sure your rear brake is adjusted properly, could be only partially engaging if the rear brake pedal isn't adjusted properly
-Stock batteries are hit and miss. Mine lasted 6 months then crapped out, others went out after a few weeks.. new ones are cheap: https://tbr7.com/upgrades/electrical

Make sure you hit all the essentials (oil, chain tension, etc): https://tbr7.com/assembly/

[TxTaoRider]

If you don't adjust the valve lash they'll be hard to start.

[kyle]

Originally Posted by TxTaoRider

If you don't adjust the valve lash they'll be hard to start.

Also this! Good point:. https://tbr7.com/upgrades/engine/

[Nospark]

Thank you for commenting. It's good to confirm header paint burning off is expected.
Rear disc brake.... I'll clean with brake clean and examine linkage. Is there an adjustment on a rear disc brake other than making sure no air in the line from flushing out China fluid?
If it's difficult to up shift does that mean my clutch adjustment is tight or lose? My take up spring is really strong so it's difficult for me to tell when the take up spring tension ends and the clutch spring tension begins.
I did adjust the valves. I followed the Megadan's Hawk assembly guide over the last couple weeks during assembly. Checked off almost everything in the list he shared. Lots of help from Kyle and Thumper as well

[buzz]

nospark ya had mine out yesterday,almost 70 here. My bike is over 1 year old,and original battery,stock plug,and carburetor. But new chain and sprockets,new exhaust and just did a valve adjustment 1400 mile and running strong. Best luck with yours and ride safe

[Nospark]

Thx Buzz. Going to get cold here again tonight and busy with day job so don't think I'll get another ride in until next weekend at soonest. I picked up a cheap Amazon tail bag & found my old FF helmet & gloves from my HD Sportster days. No way the old HD riding jacket will fit. I'd look like Chris Farley doing "Fat man in a little coat"

[Nospark]

Finally had a decent day yesterday so decided to start up the bike for quick ride. Wouldn't start :( The starter really labors to turn the motor over. After a bit of a drain on the batt it wouldn't even turn the motor over with the choke on. I found it turned the motor over without choke on. I'm thinking I have the valves way out of adjustment. Likely set the valves on exhaust stroke rather than compression. Looks like I'm checking valve gap before I try and ride again.

[kyle]

Definitely check the valves again. Also top of the battery with a charger.. and you can also resort to the kickstart to see if it's harder than it should be.

[Ol,fart]

Originally Posted by Nospark

Finally had a decent day yesterday so decided to start up the bike for quick ride. Wouldn't start :( The starter really labors to turn the motor over. After a bit of a drain on the batt it wouldn't even turn the motor over with the choke on. I found it turned the motor over without choke on. I'm thinking I have the valves way out of adjustment. Likely set the valves on exhaust stroke rather than compression. Looks like I'm checking valve gap before I try and ride again.

Tighten the clutch cable a little and see if that helps. The engine and transmissions on these are pretty tight when new, will get better 500 to 1000 miles . Neutral is impossible to find but the light may still show neutral . That will improve also but still won't be easy to find.
The batteries are a crap shoot(thats why they have a kickstart)
Adjustment on rear master cylinder rod, be carefull not to get it to long or it will partial applie and push hot fluid back to the resevar

[Nospark]

Tightening clutch cable seems easier than pulling valve cover to check valves so I'll try that first. Thanks. Yes, I'm sure the factory battery is low performance. It came installed on my bike. No maintenance type. I just made connections and put on tickle charger 'til topped off. I figured I would give the factory battery a shot b4 just assuming I should replace a brand new batt.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by kyle

-You'll actually want the clutch slightly tight.. it'll stretch in its first few heat cycles.
-The shifter loosens up as you ride and break it in.
-Smoke is normal.. sometimes last 10 minutes on first start, shouldn't come back
-shoot the disk with brake clean and make sure your rear brake is adjusted properly, could be only partially engaging if the rear brake pedal isn't adjusted properly
-Stock batteries are hit and miss. Mine lasted 6 months then crapped out, others went out after a few weeks.. new ones are cheap: https://tbr7.com/upgrades/electrical

Make sure you hit all the essentials (oil, chain tension, etc): https://tbr7.com/assembly/

Originally Posted by TxTaoRider

If you don't adjust the valve lash they'll be hard to start.

All the answers you need.

My addition. If you used the brakes before cleaning them, remove the pads and also spray them with brake parts cleaner. Otherwise they will remain contaminated and it can seep into the pad material as they get hot.

As for valve lash, during break in I just follow the TT250 recommendation of setting both valves to .07mm since the lash will shrink in the first few hundred miles. Then at the first oil change set the lash to .05mm for both valves for a good balance between noise and service intervals.

Also, at the main ground point on the engine - between the starter and clutch arm on the back of the case - remove the bolt and cable and sand off the engine paint. This will help with getting a better ground. Hit it with some anti-corrosion spray or put some anti-seize on the bolt threads when re-installing.

My own personal upgrade I do with the ground is to up the main ground strap wire. I use this chonky boy, but you could also make your own with some crimp ends. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Oldenslow]

Valves will need to be looked at in time, but right now, for sure, both the stock battery and starter are marginal. The easiest way to fight it is a fully-charged battery. I keep my battery on a solar-powered battery maintainer when not being ridden, and since I began that practice starting has become a sure thing. Yes, it bogs on compression occasionally, but with the full-charged battery it just powers on thru when you hit the button again. If I were in a situation where using a maintainer wasn't possible for some reason, investing in a lithium battery might be worthwhile, although they are not cheap. A 13+ volt charge on standby is a comfort...

[Ol,fart]

Originally Posted by Megadan

All the answers you need.

My addition. If you used the brakes before cleaning them, remove the pads and also spray them with brake parts cleaner. Otherwise they will remain contaminated and it can seep into the pad material as they get hot.

As for valve lash, during break in I just follow the TT250 recommendation of setting both valves to .07mm since the lash will shrink in the first few hundred miles. Then at the first oil change set the lash to .05mm for both valves for a good balance between noise and service intervals.

Also, at the main ground point on the engine - between the starter and clutch arm on the back of the case - remove the bolt and cable and sand off the engine paint. This will help with getting a better ground. Hit it with some anti-corrosion spray or put some anti-seize on the bolt threads when re-installing.

My own personal upgrade I do with the ground is to up the main ground strap wire. I use this chonky boy, but you could also make your own with some crimp ends. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

My favorite spray for electric connections and grounds is the old copper coat head gasket spray, last forever. Extra ground are always a good idea (engine, frame and battery)
If you ever have repeated bearing or bushing failure in anything-add grounds ! Electrolysis is a Bitch

[Ol,fart]

Originally Posted by Nospark

Tightening clutch cable seems easier than pulling valve cover to check valves so I'll try that first. Thanks. Yes, I'm sure the factory battery is low performance. It came installed on my bike. No maintenance type. I just made connections and put on tickle charger 'til topped off. I figured I would give the factory battery a shot b4 just assuming I should replace a brand new batt.

The battery can show perfect voltage and still not carry an amp load. if you know someone with a load tester , check it.
but take Megadan's advise about grounds. If it test good or not.