Need Tips on Apollo Carb Removal

[Ski_rush]

Hey everyone:

I finally had some free time to try to install the new carb. Got the new jets and the installed those in the new carb.

I was able to remove the two nuts holding the carb to the head. I loosened the retainer ring that mounts the air filter assembly to the other side of the carb and even got as far as pushing black air filter assembly off from the back of the carb. However, I cannot seem to get the carb out far enough where I can actually remove it.

It's a very tight fit. The air filter assembly is very different than what's on the Hawk. I thought about removing the whole air filter box from the bike, but I couldn't quite seem to see how it mounts to the frame.

The other idea I had was removing the intake manifold part that actually bolts to the cylinder head and then the carb mounts to that. My only hesitation with that approach is that I didn't know if there was a gasket on the other side of that intake manifold part that I'd have to replace once I removed the intake manifold.

Is there a trick to getting this carb out? As I said, it's an extremely tight fit. I was able to push and pull the large black air filter assembly "hose" a bit; it's pretty "firm" though. I just can not seem to get it it out of the way enough to get the carb off of those two bolts coming from the head.

And, from the videos I've seen on removing the carb, turning the top cap of the carb (the part where the throttle cable goes) looks pretty easy. The guys turning that counter clockwise seem to turn it rather freely. Mine is super tight. I tried to turn it with a crescent wrench and ended my marring that cap.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[Douglass]

The other idea I had was removing the intake manifold part that actually bolts to the cylinder head and then the carb mounts to that. My only hesitation with that approach is that I didn't know if there was a gasket on the other side of that intake manifold part that I'd have to replace once I removed the intake manifold.

You will need remove the intake manifold from the cylinder head, and there is an o ring at the intake to cylinder head. No need to remove the air box.

And, from the videos I've seen on removing the carb, turning the top cap of the carb (the part where the throttle cable goes) looks pretty easy. The guys turning that counter clockwise seem to turn it rather freely. Mine is super tight. I tried to turn it with a crescent wrench and ended my marring that cap.

Check for a screw, or a copper looking plug on the side of the top cap. I am almost positive there is a screw with a little bracket locking onto the ridges on the side of the top cap. Once this is remove, it should come right off.

[Ski_rush]

Thanks Douglass for the help. Removing the intake manifold should do the trick. And, you’re right about the copper “plug” or screw. I guess the manufacturer really didn’t want anyone missing with the carb!

[Its_not_a_honda]

PM sent

[Ski_rush]

Originally Posted by Its_not_a_honda

PM sent

Thanks for the help! After reading through the carb thread you gave me a link for, I'm wishing I bought a pumper carb now! Oh, well, I can always upgrade that later.

Another question. The new carb says 100 for the main jet and 40 for the pilot jet. I am trying to decide between the 115 and the 120 for the main.

As for the 40 on the pilot jet, it looks like I ordered the wrong pilot jet kit. The pilot jets are much larger in diameter than the one that is in the new carb; so they don't come close to being able to screw in. The stock pilot diameter is much more skinny.

I'm still going to go ahead and button up the bike today to get it started for the first time (with the stock pilot jet since I don't have any others that fit).

But can anyone help with a pilot jet kit in case it needs to be tweaked a little?

[Ski_rush]

I can confirm that the new bike does have this "cassette" style air filter (as they call in on the Orion website). These "cassettes" are positioned like in a series, one spaced about 2 inches from the other. I can't imagine it can breathe all that well. I'm thinking an air filter upgrade is needed in the future.

I've never seen that Orion website before, but found it through it's_not_a_honda's" previous thread. Nice to know that there if I need a part.

[Its_not_a_honda]

I did change mine to a pod filter inside the original air box. This was done in conjunction with the shock mod I did. Didn't have to. Just an experiment. I couldn't tell any difference in power. Nothing. Ran exactly the same. May be because of the air box. I would not dare run my air filter without the box. I go through too much mud and water to take a chance.

[Douglass]

Another question. The new carb says 100 for the main jet and 40 for the pilot jet. I am trying to decide between the 115 and the 120 for the main.

What is your elavation? I am at sea level, and I run a 27.5 pilot, and a with a 120 main, needle clip in the middle using the Mikuni VM26. The 40 pilot might be to large.

If you want a pumper carb set up, I have a brand new kit that I decided not to use.

[Ski_rush]

Originally Posted by Douglass

What is your elavation? I am at sea level, and I run a 27.5 pilot, and a with a 120 main, needle clip in the middle using the Mikuni VM26. The 40 pilot might be to large.

If you want a pumper carb set up, I have a brand new kit that I decided not to use.

PM sent.

[Ski_rush]

Ya, I figured the 40 pilot is too big, but that’s what the new carb came with and I don’t have any other pilots. The kit I bought from Amazon was the wrong size. Never bought pilot jets before, not exactly sure what size fitting they are.

I’m interested in that extra pumper carb though.

[NzBrakelathes]

Originally Posted by Ski_rush

Ya, I figured the 40 pilot is too big, but that’s what the new carb came with and I don’t have any other pilots. The kit I bought from Amazon was the wrong size. Never bought pilot jets before, not exactly sure what size fitting they are.

I’m interested in that extra pumper carb though.

You got pilot jets for Keihin type carbs but common pilot jets, not the funky type that come in some carbs including the pumper carb
You have a 200cc OHC ? Then you can search AJP PR3 or 4 as that engine badickt the same and those bikes run a PZ30B pumper carb standard

[Ski_rush]

Ok, progress has been made, but I ran into a small problem.

The new carb is installed. Once I removed the intake manifold, it was pretty easy to get it out. Anyway, new carb is in.

Here's the problem. This bike has a handlebar mounted choke control. It would have been a nice feature. I say "would" have been because I can't seem to get it to work right with the new carb. I'm 99.9% sure that I installed the choke cable the same way that it was installed on the stock carb. By moving the choke lever on the handlebar, I'm able to get the cable to pull up on the black choke control/lever just fine; that action works great.

However, the problem is when I move the handlebar-mounted choke control lever back (to push the black choke lever on the carb back down), the choke cable is not able to actually push the black choke switch back down. I have to do it with my finger. Again, once it's in the down position, the handle-bar mounted lever can make the choke lever on the carb move "up", but just not down. I tried adjusting the cable by adjusting the nut at the handlebar (to make it tighter), but it didn't do anything.

I don't know the technical names for the parts. Hopefully, the above made sense. Is this just something that I'm probably going to have to live with? If so, it's not a big deal, but it would have been a nice feature.

Any thoughts?

[NzBrakelathes]

Sounds like you have a choke mech at carb not a cable type choke mech
There are 2 versions in keihin 1 is choke lever at carb only and the other is for cable choke lever
Maybe marry the parts you have together
In some ways changing the whole carb might be causing more trouble then tuning just the original

[Ski_rush]

I'm including some pictures so maybe it will help in describing my problem. Here's the choke lever and the cable connected to the carb. Again, I can get the "Plunger" part to pull the black lever up on the carb just fine. However, it will not push the lever back down. It would be great if it did. The pics show the lever in the down position.

Any thoughts? Can you see if I'm doing something wrong?

[Its_not_a_honda]

Originally Posted by Ski_rush

I'm including some pictures so maybe it will help in describing my problem. Here's the choke lever and the cable connected to the carb. Again, I can get the "Plunger" part to pull the black lever up on the carb just fine. However, it will not push the lever back down. It would be great if it did. The pics show the lever in the down position.

Any thoughts? Can you see if I'm doing something wrong?

You are missing the return spring. That is with me looking at it on my phone.