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Old 08-21-2018, 04:51 PM   #1
Biker_Andy   Biker_Andy is offline
 
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TT250 Forks Leaking

I first noticed my forks leaking out the top when I got it ready to ride in the spring. Both forks, fluid visible around the adjustment screws. If I lifted the front end over winter it probably wouldn't have happened. I finally decided to do something about it and figure out what parts I need to order to fix it. Unfortunately the forks are listed as single items for $199 each. No individual parts within the forks are available on CSC website. I don't want to buy 2 new forks because a seal blew or need to replace again after 2 more seasons. I could justify replacing the forks if I was upgraded them but not for the same quality parts. Or perhaps someone knows where I can find Chinese replacement fork components.


 
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Old 08-21-2018, 05:31 PM   #2
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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This is not uncommon. Mine did it too.
CSC warrantied ours and sent a new cap.
I did rebuild the bad one just as a recon. Just a bad o-ring and some gunk in the top of the cap. They are put together with red locktite so a little green bottle torch action works. O-ring is a common size.
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Old 08-22-2018, 12:24 PM   #3
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Fork fluid overfill?

I experienced the same issue with my xf250. I ended up going to a shop and they found the leaking was from forks being topped off on fluid. They removed excess fluid to specs and that solved the problem. This was a very small leak, maybe a drop or two after a ride on very hot days in the Mojave Desert.
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Old 08-22-2018, 03:26 PM   #4
Biker_Andy   Biker_Andy is offline
 
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Mine leaked enough to ruin the old shirt I was wearing. FYI I've never worked on forks and have little mechanical experience. If I heat the cap to remove it are the springs going to come shooting out at me? I guess first step would probably be to unload the weight off the shocks, then can I safely remove the cap? I was hoping CSC had an exploded view of the forks so I have an idea of what's inside. I don't have an O-ring kit but I might use this as an excuse to buy one or I guess I can take the bad ones to an automotive parts shop.

I find it odd that both failed at the same time. I'm pretty sure someone said the internals are different because the adjustment screws do different things. I'm guessing the caps are still the same on both.


 
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Old 08-23-2018, 10:45 AM   #5
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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You don't even have to remove the forks from the bike.
Do one fork at a time.
Loosen the top triple clamp on a chosen fork. Leave the bottom clamp tight.
Loosen and unthread the fork cap from the tube. Push down on the forks a little to expose the nut below the cap.
With two wrenches, loosen and remove cap.
The adjustable dampening rod will come with it.
Unthread the dampening rod from the bottom of the fork cap and install in new cap.
Install new cap in reverse.

I did mine out of the bike in the pics but you get the idea.
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Old 08-25-2018, 07:24 AM   #6
Biker_Andy   Biker_Andy is offline
 
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Thanks, that doesn't look that bad. Any recommendation on what fork oil to top it off with? Or perhaps now is a good time to replace the factory oil with something a little better.


 
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:40 PM   #7
2LZ   2LZ is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biker_Andy View Post
Thanks, that doesn't look that bad. Any recommendation on what fork oil to top it off with? Or perhaps now is a good time to replace the factory oil with something a little better.
I replaced mine with Bel Ray 10W...but like all lubes, it's a personal choice.
To drain, you will have to remove and flip each fork upside down. I got 320 cc's out of each fork without a full tear down.
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2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650
2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411
1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350


 
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