Shifting is hard when hot..won't shift sometimes(HELP PLEASE!)

Coleguy · 04-13-2016, 01:43 PM

Hey guys..running into my first problem. Today I was out for a 30 minute ride at high speeds so my bike was pretty hot. I noticed that toward the end of my ride...my bike did not want to change gears. I pulled into a parking lot. It would NOT shift even at a stand still, which it usually Does with no problem. It was stuck in Neutral ..after like 5 minutes it could go to first. So my bike could just go from neural to first. It could not go up at all..my shifter is NOT bent and I just changed my oil like a month ago. After cooling down for about 30 minutes..my gears were working again enough to ride home. Still hard to shift but it got me home.

2LZ · 04-13-2016, 01:46 PM

How many miles? Is it broke in yet?
What oil are you running?

SpudRider · 04-13-2016, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2LZ

How many miles? Is it broke in yet?
What oil are you running?

Yes, please tell us what engine oil you put in the bike.

You might also rotate the shift lever down a notch, and make sure the bolt is tightened securely.

mq1991 · 04-13-2016, 02:32 PM

Thats odd, Can you shift with the engine off?

Check your clutch linkage as well. It could have loosened up down by the engine. That would cause this issue as well.

BARLOW · 04-13-2016, 03:20 PM

sounds like the cable is a bit off, hope that is all it is anyway

Coleguy · 04-13-2016, 03:36 PM

The type of oil I use is SAE10W3 4 stroke oil that's recommended for my bike. Is there any other oil I should be using? And so far a buddy of mine told me to clean and lube my chain, I did notice that I chain is very dry and could use some cleaning and lubing. Also thank you I will check the clutch cable down near the engine because up top it is properly adjusted. Keep the suggestions rolling please..I want to figure this out asap thanks again!

mq1991 · 04-13-2016, 03:45 PM

So far Ive had great luck with the Rotella 15w-40 Diesel oil. Not sure if it would make a difference, but worth a shot if you can find anything else wrong.

Good luck man! hope its nothing serious.

SpudRider · 04-13-2016, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coleguy

The type of oil I use is SAE10W3 4 stroke oil that's recommended for my bike. Is there any other oil I should be using? And so far a buddy of mine told me to clean and lube my chain, I did notice that I chain is very dry and could use some cleaning and lubing. Also thank you I will check the clutch cable down near the engine because up top it is properly adjusted. Keep the suggestions rolling please..I want to figure this out asap thanks again!

On the back of all certified oil cans is a circular stamp with the certification. Avoid oils that say "energy conserving" in the bottom half of the donut. These oils contain friction modifier additives that could cause clutch slipping over time. Essentially all 0w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 oils are energy conserving, and should not be used in your motorcycle.

dpl096 · 04-13-2016, 05:59 PM

Assuming your chain and sprockets are in good condition and under proper tension correctly the check you clutch for sure. Plates can get sticky from burned lining and oil then drag when hot. Plain plates can warp from heat, so look for "blueing" and lack of flatness. If that's the case a new set of plates will fix the problem along with a good flush of the oil and avoid that stuff that Spud posted about.

BlackBike · 04-13-2016, 08:19 PM

Cole , same bike here. Occasionally I notice a little stick around that 1-2 range. did you vary the rpm when attempting to shift. 40w, Oil should be JASO certification. I'm sure you are aware of this stuff , just putting it out there.

Azhule · 04-13-2016, 08:49 PM

You could always try using 1 ounce per quart of Schaeffer's Neutra 131, it has helped ease up several "hard clutch/shifting and false neutrals" on several motorcycles and ATVs I have worked on over the years.

Neutra 131 is usually branded as a "Fuel Cleaner and Stabilizer" but it has always had a Technical Data/Instructions Sheet for "Purge/Cleaning" of many engines/transmissions/differentials/hydraulics/etc. just read the PDF Schaeffer's puts out

http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/32-131-td.pdf

Might be worth a shot at the price it costs. It helped with the "Bashan BS200GY-9" motorcycle I just received, it had both hard/impossible shifting and also false neutrals (would still be in first or second gear and stall the bike

)

lee47512 · 04-13-2016, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azhule

You could always try using 1 ounce per quart of Schaeffer's Neutra 131, it has helped ease up several "hard clutch/shifting and false neutrals" on several motorcycles and ATVs I have worked on over the years.

Neutra 131 is usually branded as a "Fuel Cleaner and Stabilizer" but it has always had a Technical Data/Instructions Sheet for "Purge/Cleaning" of many engines/transmissions/differentials/hydraulics/etc. just read the PDF Schaeffer's puts out

http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/32-131-td.pdf

Might be worth a shot at the price it costs. It helped with the "Bashan BS200GY-9" motorcycle I just received, it had both hard/impossible shifting and also false neutrals (would still be in first or second gear and stall the bike

)

Is that like seafoam?

2LZ · 04-14-2016, 10:07 AM

How did it shift after it cooled? Did it shift the next morning after sitting overnight?

How many miles do you have on it? If it's not broke-in, the gear faces and shifting dogs and pawls, among many other contact points such as rockers, cams lobe surfaces, rocker pivots, etc.... need to surface or reface each other and are points of generating major heat. After a 30 minute run at high speeds (over 5000 rpm's?) and expressing your bike was very hot leads me to suspect it's not the oil, if you haven't hit the 500 mile mark yet. If it's broke-in (over 500 miles and an oil change), then it's definitely something else. I've seen a super tight chain cause shifting problems, among other things.

Azhule · 04-14-2016, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lee47512

Is that like seafoam?

No... and yes...

No it has nothing similar in chemical composition according to the MSDS of the 2.

No, as I have never seen SeaFoam turn 'carbon back to goo' that is easily purged/cleaned from the system during a top cylinder cleaning.

No, I would not and could not EVER compare any Schaeffer product to the expensive Pale Oil in a can called SeaFoam

and...

Yes, as it can be used in a similar fashion, you can add it to the Engine Oil, Transmission/Gear Oil, and the Fuel system to clean out the system from gum/varnish/carbon deposits/etc.

Fame28 · 04-14-2016, 12:02 PM

Anyone else have issues with your Hawk finding neutral while it's running or jumping from neutral to first on it's own? I've rode since I could hold up a bike and I've never had any of them with such a tight switch between first and second. I can get it into neutral if it's rolling quickly to a stop, but not while it's idling stopped at a light without shutting it off. My idle is currently is only slightly higher than it should be, but I haven't really had the motivation to dial in the carb and set the idle properly.

04-13-2016, 01:43 PM	#1
Coleguy Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 39	Shifting is hard when hot..won't shift sometimes(HELP PLEASE!) Hey guys..running into my first problem. Today I was out for a 30 minute ride at high speeds so my bike was pretty hot. I noticed that toward the end of my ride...my bike did not want to change gears. I pulled into a parking lot. It would NOT shift even at a stand still, which it usually Does with no problem. It was stuck in Neutral ..after like 5 minutes it could go to first. So my bike could just go from neural to first. It could not go up at all..my shifter is NOT bent and I just changed my oil like a month ago. After cooling down for about 30 minutes..my gears were working again enough to ride home. Still hard to shift but it got me home.
	0

04-13-2016, 01:46 PM	#2
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,092	How many miles? Is it broke in yet? What oil are you running? __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
	1

04-13-2016, 05:59 PM	#9
dpl096 Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: East Central Hellinois Posts: 1,344	ouch .... Assuming your chain and sprockets are in good condition and under proper tension correctly the check you clutch for sure. Plates can get sticky from burned lining and oil then drag when hot. Plain plates can warp from heat, so look for "blueing" and lack of flatness. If that's the case a new set of plates will fix the problem along with a good flush of the oil and avoid that stuff that Spud posted about.
	0

04-13-2016, 08:19 PM	#10
BlackBike Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: George West, Texas Posts: 4,097	Cole , same bike here. Occasionally I notice a little stick around that 1-2 range. did you vary the rpm when attempting to shift. 40w, Oil should be JASO certification. I'm sure you are aware of this stuff , just putting it out there. __________________ ***************************************** 2015 Bashan"Blaze" BS250GY-31 (DB-07K-250) GONE 2017 Suzuki V Strom 650 XT "We are all born ignorant, but one must work hard to remain stupid." ~Benjamin Franklin~
	0

04-13-2016, 08:49 PM	#11
Azhule Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CO Posts: 1,525	You could always try using 1 ounce per quart of Schaeffer's Neutra 131, it has helped ease up several "hard clutch/shifting and false neutrals" on several motorcycles and ATVs I have worked on over the years. Neutra 131 is usually branded as a "Fuel Cleaner and Stabilizer" but it has always had a Technical Data/Instructions Sheet for "Purge/Cleaning" of many engines/transmissions/differentials/hydraulics/etc. just read the PDF Schaeffer's puts out http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/32-131-td.pdf Might be worth a shot at the price it costs. It helped with the "Bashan BS200GY-9" motorcycle I just received, it had both hard/impossible shifting and also false neutrals (would still be in first or second gear and stall the bike ) __________________ "Think as you like... but this self proclaimed Professor is always right" - Buckshot "You never know what someone is hiding beneath their smile..." - NinjaTom - R.I.P.
	0

04-13-2016, 02:32 PM	#4
mq1991 Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Gurnee, Illinois Posts: 277	Thats odd, Can you shift with the engine off? Check your clutch linkage as well. It could have loosened up down by the engine. That would cause this issue as well.
	0

04-13-2016, 03:20 PM	#5
BARLOW Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: central illinois Posts: 362	sounds like the cable is a bit off, hope that is all it is anyway
	0

04-13-2016, 03:36 PM	#6
Coleguy Join Date: Jan 2016 Posts: 39	The type of oil I use is SAE10W3 4 stroke oil that's recommended for my bike. Is there any other oil I should be using? And so far a buddy of mine told me to clean and lube my chain, I did notice that I chain is very dry and could use some cleaning and lubing. Also thank you I will check the clutch cable down near the engine because up top it is properly adjusted. Keep the suggestions rolling please..I want to figure this out asap thanks again!
	0

04-13-2016, 03:45 PM	#7
mq1991 Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Gurnee, Illinois Posts: 277	So far Ive had great luck with the Rotella 15w-40 Diesel oil. Not sure if it would make a difference, but worth a shot if you can find anything else wrong. Good luck man! hope its nothing serious.
	0

04-14-2016, 10:07 AM	#13
2LZ Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Volcano, Ca Posts: 7,092	How did it shift after it cooled? Did it shift the next morning after sitting overnight? How many miles do you have on it? If it's not broke-in, the gear faces and shifting dogs and pawls, among many other contact points such as rockers, cams lobe surfaces, rocker pivots, etc.... need to surface or reface each other and are points of generating major heat. After a 30 minute run at high speeds (over 5000 rpm's?) and expressing your bike was very hot leads me to suspect it's not the oil, if you haven't hit the 500 mile mark yet. If it's broke-in (over 500 miles and an oil change), then it's definitely something else. I've seen a super tight chain cause shifting problems, among other things. __________________ "Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350
	0

04-14-2016, 12:02 PM	#15
Fame28 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Kingston, NY Posts: 66	Anyone else have issues with your Hawk finding neutral while it's running or jumping from neutral to first on it's own? I've rode since I could hold up a bike and I've never had any of them with such a tight switch between first and second. I can get it into neutral if it's rolling quickly to a stop, but not while it's idling stopped at a light without shutting it off. My idle is currently is only slightly higher than it should be, but I haven't really had the motivation to dial in the carb and set the idle properly.
	1