Wheel Bearing Replacement

[Kenstogie]

I am going through my TBR7 fairly thoroughly and ordered bearing replacements for both the front and rear.. from Balls Racing...

Are there any videos on the subject or tutorials? ( could be Hawk, Tao or any of the Chinese bikes)

I don't think it's that hard but I sure do like watching some one else do it prior to me....

Many thanks!!

[JerryHawk250]

There really is no need to replace the bearings on a new bike. Just grease up the ones that come on the bike. They come with very little grease from the factory. I have over 7800 miles on the stock bearing on my Hawk.

[kingofqueenz]

Jerry, question - I did the same on my TBR7 recently, popped off the dust cover as you show in the pic and packed in marine grease.

The other side of your photo ( the rotor side) - I could not figure for the life of me how to get the cover off, it look like it is part of the housing the holds the rotor on and I would need to unbolt the rotor.

Is this accurate or am I missing something?

[NzBrakelathes]

Originally Posted by kingofqueenz

Jerry, question - I did the same on my TBR7 recently, popped off the dust cover as you show in the pic and packed in marine grease.

The other side of your photo ( the rotor side) - I could not figure for the life of me how to get the cover off, it look like it is part of the housing the holds the rotor on and I would need to unbolt the rotor.

Is this accurate or am I missing something?

Jerry is showing THAT axle spacer seal removed and the actual seal INSIDE the bearing removed.
You need to dig a little deeper...

[kingofqueenz]

Tako, I get the side Jerry is showing, that is easy to remove the dust cap and apply grease.

The other side, where the rotor is mounted - that is not clear cut on how to remove.

[JerryHawk250]

It's the same on both side on my Hawk. The axle seal should come out fairly easy.

[Its_not_a_honda]

You will need to buy a new seal. After trying to get it off, you may have damaged it. Just put a screwdriver under the edge and whack the handle with a hammer. You may have to be mean to it. I have had one on my front wheel on my Apollo that gave me grief. It came out but not in a reusable form. Lol. Just order new seals for both sides. Buy a quality seal from a reputable company. Trust me on that. Both my front and rear (original) seals let water in. Rusted my bearings within 6 months. I went with Japanese made seals and bearings. No more problems. Requires research but worth it. There are little numbers cast on the seal that tell the size. Just Google the numbers and choose wisely.

[kingofqueenz]

Thank you sir.... I remain humble before thee....

[Kenstogie]

So thanks to all the responses and wisdom
... but unfortunately I am unclear as to how the whole thing goes together....

So i downloaded an exploded view of a generic Dirt bike rear wheel assembly..... which I think looks fairly close... .the only difference (??) is that there's a seal cover between 2 and 4 on the left side and 11 and 4 on the right? is that close or do I have it wrong?

[Tomkay44]

Originally Posted by Kenstogie

So thanks to all the responses and wisdom
... but unfortunately I am unclear as to how the whole thing goes together....

So i downloaded an exploded view of a generic Dirt bike rear wheel assembly..... which I think looks fairly close... .the only difference (??) is that there's a seal cover between 2 and 4 on the left side and 11 and 4 on the right? is that close or do I have it wrong?

It looks like on this assembly break out/down pic, it shows the cap and seal on the sprocket side to be one piece. Not so on the TBR7. The sprocket bolts are different also. There's not a nut that goes on them like the TBR7 has.

[Kenstogie]

So here's another video that explains a rear wheel assembly, hub, bearings, axle etc...
might be helpful for anyone that stumbles on this thread...

[Tomkay44]

Thank you so much China Ryder 27. I really appreciate it.

[severely]

Originally Posted by Tomkay44

Thank you so much China Ryder 27. I really appreciate it.

Are you getting any closer to getting the wheel on and bike running?

[Tomkay44]

Originally Posted by severely

Are you getting any closer to getting the wheel on and bike running?

Appreciate you asking. I'm afraid the answer's no. I ended up just fingering a bunch of marine grade grease up in rear wheel bearings and figured I'd deal with the shut caliper issue on the way out. I wanted to check & zert the swing arm while I was in there.
It turns out I stripped the bottom shock bolt during assembly so I died it & tapped the nut.
When I got the swing arm off I noticed the shock would barley move. I'm thinking it's supposed to swing kind of freely from up there so I figured I better take that off to grease & torque it. IT WON'T COME OFF.
I bought some gripping sockets, it made it worse so i had to take the seat, airbox, exhaust (to get the air box off) so I could get with vice grips. I CAN'T EVEN GET IT WITH VICE GRIPS. It's like a bad sitcom that you can't turn away from.
I'm soaking it in WD40 for a few days and will try it again.
Think I'll change my user name from Tomkay44 to NoMechanic1..... Not letting it get to me though. Lol

[severely]

Originally Posted by Tomkay44

Appreciate you asking. I'm afraid the answer's no. I ended up just fingering a bunch of marine grade grease up in rear wheel bearings and figured I'd deal with the shut caliper issue on the way out. I wanted to check & zert the swing arm while I was in there.
It turns out I stripped the bottom shock bolt during assembly so I died it & tapped the nut.
When I got the swing arm off I noticed the shock would barley move. I'm thinking it's supposed to swing kind of freely from up there so I figured I better take that off to grease & torque it. IT WON'T COME OFF.
I bought some gripping sockets, it made it worse so i had to take the seat, airbox, exhaust (to get the air box off) so I could get with vice grips. I CAN'T EVEN GET IT WITH VICE GRIPS. It's like a bad sitcom that you can't turn away from.
I'm soaking it in WD40 for a few days and will try it again.
Think I'll change my user name from Tomkay44 to NoMechanic1..... Not letting it get to me though. Lol

So, are you referring to the shock not coming out after the bolt removal, the bolt removal itself or the swingarm not coming loose? Do you own a torque wrench? I'm guessing torque values are fairly consistent on the Chinese stuff so possibly torque values off other models are a worthwhile reference for future tightening of bolts. You sound like a young, strong guy and strength is a strong ally but can also be a foe. Good luck.