Wheel Bearing Replacement
 

I am going through my TBR7 fairly thoroughly and ordered bearing replacements for both the front and rear.. from Balls Racing...

Are there any videos on the subject or tutorials? ( could be Hawk, Tao or any of the Chinese bikes)

I don't think it's that hard but I sure do like watching some one else do it prior to me....

Many thanks!!

There really is no need to replace the bearings on a new bike. Just grease up the ones that come on the bike. They come with very little grease from the factory. I have over 7800 miles on the stock bearing on my Hawk.

http://www.chinariders.net/attachmen...5&d=1530994962

Jerry, question - I did the same on my TBR7 recently, popped off the dust cover as you show in the pic and packed in marine grease.

The other side of your photo ( the rotor side) - I could not figure for the life of me how to get the cover off, it look like it is part of the housing the holds the rotor on and I would need to unbolt the rotor.

Is this accurate or am I missing something?

Jerry is showing THAT axle spacer seal removed and the actual seal INSIDE the bearing removed.
You need to dig a little deeper...

Tako, I get the side Jerry is showing, that is easy to remove the dust cap and apply grease.

The other side, where the rotor is mounted - that is not clear cut on how to remove.

It's the same on both side on my Hawk. The axle seal should come out fairly easy.

Hmmm perhaps different on the TBR7, I was trying all types of tricks and just chewing up that rubber lip that holds gently overlaps the spacer once you slide the axle through.

Trust me gents... I tried and tried and it most certainly appears as if the rotor needs to come off.

I am more than happy to be wrong about that :hmm:

You will need to buy a new seal. After trying to get it off, you may have damaged it. Just put a screwdriver under the edge and whack the handle with a hammer. You may have to be mean to it. I have had one on my front wheel on my Apollo that gave me grief. It came out but not in a reusable form. Lol. Just order new seals for both sides. Buy a quality seal from a reputable company. Trust me on that. Both my front and rear (original) seals let water in. Rusted my bearings within 6 months. I went with Japanese made seals and bearings. No more problems. Requires research but worth it. There are little numbers cast on the seal that tell the size. Just Google the numbers and choose wisely.

Thank you sir.... I remain humble before thee....

So thanks to all the responses and wisdom :thanks:
... but unfortunately I am unclear as to how the whole thing goes together.... :hmm:

So i downloaded an exploded view of a generic Dirt bike rear wheel assembly..... which I think looks fairly close... .the only difference (??) is that there's a seal cover between 2 and 4 on the left side and 11 and 4 on the right? is that close or do I have it wrong?

So here's another video that explains a rear wheel assembly, hub, bearings, axle etc...
might be helpful for anyone that stumbles on this thread...
https://youtu.be/fuPQ8lxgZY8

kingofqueenz is right. It's not coming off without being damaged to the point of needing to be replaced. Could we get a link for some good seals that'll fit?
Or could we get away with saturating it the best we can with marine grade grease without taking the seals off?

Sometimes you can gently pry them out, sometimes not without damage. Unless you are replacing the bearing there is no need to take it out or worry about it until you need to. On the speedometer cable drive side you should be able to see the bearing numbers, the two front should be the same. I would pack the space between the seal and bearing with grease and on the lips too, on the spacer shaft too, that is why its squeaking there is no lubrication and it needs it. On the speedo side pack good around the bearing (there is no seal to keep water out) it won't damage anything and the axle coat it, on the speedo gears on axle too.

Thank you so much China Ryder 27. I really appreciate it.

It looks like on this assembly break out/down pic, it shows the cap and seal on the sprocket side to be one piece. Not so on the TBR7. The sprocket bolts are different also. There's not a nut that goes on them like the TBR7 has.