New member! Help me tell what cc my zongshen motor is???????

[Ironmike]

Thought I would post this info I came across while researching my motor cc. Not sure if it's been posted here before but here it is.


Standard Chinese motorcycle engine identification.

Example LF163FML-2M

First letter or two indicate the manufacturer. These may be omitted. LF = Lifan, ZS - Zongshen, etc..

First digit indicates the number of cylinders. 1 in the example above.

Next 2 digits indicate the bore in millimeters. 63 in the example above.

Next letter indicates cooling method. F=air cooled, M=water cooled.

Next letter indicates use. M=motorcycle

Next letter indicates displacement. J=150cc, K=175cc, L=200cc, M=250cc,

Any letters after the dash indicate model version. In the example above the 2M is the engine equipped with a balance shaft.

The 142cc engine in my little bike is 1P55FMJ-2E10 so it's a single cylinder, horizontal (P), 55mm bore, air cooled, motorcycle engine, 150cc class, model 2E10.

The 200cc engine is the Roketa is 167FML so it's a single cylinder, 67mm bore, air cooled, motorcycle engine, 200cc class.

[humanbeing]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

...running a 30 slow jet and a 110 main at sea level, with the pilot mixture screw out one turn.

btw. These are Mikuni spec that different from Keihin (& copy)

[Weldangrind]

Good catch, HB. I forgot to mention that I'm running a Mikuni.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by Ironmike

I'm still getting used to reading the # pages in reverse lol.

Click on User CP in the upper left corner of your screen, then click Edit Options in the left pane, scroll down to Thread Display Options to arrive at Thread Display Options. Look for Thread Display Mode and select Linear - Oldest First. Let me know if that helped.

[Ironmike]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Click on User CP in the upper left corner of your screen, then click Edit Options in the left pane, scroll down to Thread Display Options to arrive at Thread Display Options. Look for Thread Display Mode and select Linear - Oldest First. Let me know if that helped.

worked perfect! Thx a lot! Post some pics of your blaster clone when you have free time. Would like to see how intake/motor/exhaust is setup! Any mods that I can do to raise hp/tq a little plz advise. What do you think about the aftermarket rev did boxes?

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Ironmike

worked perfect! Thx a lot! Post some pics of your blaster clone when you have free time. Would like to see how intake/motor/exhaust is setup! Any mods that I can do to raise hp/tq a little plz advise. What do you think about the aftermarket rev did boxes?

The power curve of this engine is, peak of a very user friendly torque curve, is at 5000 rpm. Horsepower is 7400-7500. Rev limiter is set at 8500, so no need to play with the rev limiter. It protects the engine from things like missed shifts and broken chains. The aftermarket CDI units have not proved out as an improvement, according to several people who have tried them. Maybe someday someone will figure out how to get a smooth advance curve into a CDI, at an affordable price, but not so far. Induction and exhaust is where to start. There is a very good extractor exhaust sold on e-bay for around $120.00 or so. A Mikuni carburetor is the easiest to tune, because of parts availability, such as jets. If you go that route, use only genuine Mikuni jets. Most of the others are not accuratly made....ARH

[Ironmike]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

The power curve of this engine is, peak of a very user friendly torque curve, is at 5000 rpm. Horsepower is 7400-7500. Rev limiter is set at 8500, so no need to play with the rev limiter. It protects the engine from things like missed shifts and broken chains. The aftermarket CDI units have not proved out as an improvement, according to several people who have tried them. Maybe someday someone will figure out how to get a smooth advance curve into a CDI, at an affordable price, but not so far. Induction and exhaust is where to start. There is a very good extractor exhaust sold on e-bay for around $120.00 or so. A Mikuni carburetor is the easiest to tune, because of parts availability, such as jets. If you go that route, use only genuine Mikuni jets. Most of the others are not accuratly made....ARH

Thx for reply.just installed the new intake. Still not enough room for airfilter gave me about 1 inch more clearance. Gonna have to try a different style intake.I changed the oil 10-40 semi synthetic and she's a smoker oil that was in it was real dirty but only smoked a little st start up. Hoping 15-40 reg oil will help with that. Filled who garage with smoke lol. How hard to rebuild this motor? Never rebuilt push rod style. Valve seals hard to change?

[Mudflap]

CG engines are super easy to rebuild, almost as easy as a 2 stroke. Parts are very cheap too.

[Ironmike]

Originally Posted by Mudflap

CG engines are super easy to rebuild, almost as easy as a 2 stroke. Parts are very cheap too.

Where's best/reputable place to buy rebuild parts and parts in general from? Thx

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Ironmike

Thx for reply.just installed the new intake. Still not enough room for airfilter gave me about 1 inch more clearance. Gonna have to try a different style intake.I changed the oil 10-40 semi synthetic and she's a smoker oil that was in it was real dirty but only smoked a little st start up. Hoping 15-40 reg oil will help with that. Filled who garage with smoke lol. How hard to rebuild this motor? Never rebuilt push rod style. Valve seals hard to change?

I's a smoker? Had it been sitting a long time before you got it? If so it may be the rings are gummed up. Try adding some MarvelMysteryOil, and ride it awhile. 10 days or so. Should clear it up....ARH

[Ironmike]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

I's a smoker? Had it been sitting a long time before you got it? If so it may be the rings are gummed up. Try adding some MarvelMysteryOil, and ride it awhile. 10 days or so. Should clear it up....ARH

Not sure how long it's been sitting. I just got it few days ago. Smoke a little when I first drove it. After I changed the oil it smoked a lot worse. Seems like I hear more of a rattle noise in the top end since the oil change. How do you know if valves need adjustment? I've done a plug reading a bunch of times due to messing with needle/mixture screw . Always looks like one side of the plug ( white ceramic part ) is rich and other side lean. What would cause that. If anyone can send a link showing full procedure/specs of setting valves that would be great as I would like to check them regardless. Thx

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Ironmike

Not sure how long it's been sitting. I just got it few days ago. Smoke a little when I first drove it. After I changed the oil it smoked a lot worse. Seems like I hear more of a rattle noise in the top end since the oil change. How do you know if valves need adjustment? I've done a plug reading a bunch of times due to messing with needle/mixture screw . Always looks like one side of the plug ( white ceramic part ) is rich and other side lean. What would cause that. If anyone can send a link showing full procedure/specs of setting valves that would be great as I would like to check them regardless. Thx

There are columns (or whatever they are called) all over this site on how to do a valve adjustment. Motocheeze has youtube videos showing how to do it, and there are others. I'm not computer literate enough to do a link to a video, but all of the younger guys know how. For me, adjusting valves is easy. Being clever about a computer....the less said, the better....ARH

[Ironmike]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

There are columns (or whatever they are called) all over this site on how to do a valve adjustment. Motocheeze has youtube videos showing how to do it, and there are others. I'm not computer literate enough to do a link to a video, but all of the younger guys know how. For me, adjusting valves is easy. Being clever about a computer....the less said, the better....ARH

Lol on computer ! Ya I've googled it and found some ok vids. I'll have to googled the one you mentioned to see if it better. Thx!

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Ironmike

Lol on computer ! Ya I've googled it and found some ok vids. I'll have to googled the one you mentioned to see if it better. Thx!

I spelled it wrong. It is 'MotoCheez'. Try youtube-MotoCheez, and see what comes up...ARH

[Ironmike]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

I spelled it wrong. It is 'MotoCheez'. Try youtube-MotoCheez, and see what comes up...ARH

That was a better vid thx. Adjusted them today. Intake was alittle tight and exhaust loose. Made up a air filter setup and it's running decent. Figures once I get it running decent it's smoking like crazy. Only a little at idle but when I give it a quick rev it smokes aaalot. I'm running 15-40. Oil was a bit dirty when I got it so I've changed the oil 4 times to clean it out. Seems to smoke more now that the oils clean. If I hold the throttle steady at mid rpm doesn't smoke that bad. I'm assuming worn rings is main cause with valve seals on there way out also. Can I just get a new piston/rings? Wouldn't mind buying piston/cylinder/gasket set all together. Maybe new head? Where's a good place to order from? Looked on eBay but not sure which will fit? Possible to make with a 229cc ? Sorry That's a lot of questions lol. Thx